TF transmission crossmember for manual

[craig32]

Hi again,
What does one use for a standard crossmember if some d-bag sawed out the original? No one reproduces them, do they? All I see is universal crossmembers for automatics.

Does anybody have one they took out that they want to get rid of?

Thanks!
Craig

[1957 Chief]

Ha ha, i got a kick out of this one brother...

You have a truck that is missing a trans crossmember and you call a person that removed it a d-bag. And you are asking for someone to cut one out, which will make whomever pulls one a d-bag.

So if i pull one I'm a d-bag? :-)

Anyways, best bet is to find one from an old yard or a frame on CL.

Bubba

[craig32]

You make a lot of assumptions, 'brother'. If you'd seen the 'work' done to this truck, you'd agree he was a d-bag. Removing a crossmember to put in an automatic would make sense, but sawing the thing out (when they can be removed by grinding out the rivets) and putting the same bellhousing back in with a different transmission does not. Not to mention, his poor choice of engine mounting has it 6" lower than the top of the radiator.
I'm asking, what do people use, or if anyone has one that they HAVE removed, I'd be interested in it, NOT to remove one needlessly.

[Rude Dude]

what tranny is it and are you running a v8 or 6, stock motor mounts (front) or aftermarket side motor mounts?

[craig32]

Hey dude, it is an SM-465 and a 400 engine. It has an engine crossmember from something else welded and bolted in with the front of the engine sitting way low. I want to start with a trans. crossmember to get that mounted right, and see what proper engine mounting needs to be done. The proper floor cover it off by an inch to the rear and about the same to the left. I can open the hole if necessary as the boot will cover it, but if the right mounting takes care of it, all the better.

[Coupeguy2001]

Well, You might be at a good place here. I think you are at a place where you could modify your truck into a better driving machine because of what you have to fix.

You might look at the front mounts from an early corvette, say 56 or 57, if you wanted to keep the front mount. Make your own from that style.
I recommend the side mounts, better attach points for torque on the left side anyway.

I used the tubular crossmember that everyone uses, but modified it to have my exhaust go through one side. They aren't too bad, pretty stout, thick wall tubing. I think they go for around $75 or so now.

You could buy a front end conversion and get better suspension,, and engine mounts to boot.
I know the price tag is right up there, but with today's cars having disc brakes, your truck might benefit from having a better suspension, and just being turned into a hot rod. In that case, you would have to take the crossmember out anyway.

Better suspension, better brakes, and better steering. That's why I altered my 57. couldn't stop fast enough on the freeway.
I ended up taking out my crossmember, but gave it to someone who was modifying his 58. I used the Doug Nash 4+3 trans, and had to make my own rear mount to adapt to the crossmember

Lets see some pics of your project. Pics are good.

[dsraven]

I think the first thing you need to do is sit down and decide what you want from the truck, or what you want the truck to be. a stock truck with all the original cross members etc (in that case the engine is a gonner, haha), a work truck, a grocery getter, a hotrod go fast truck, a low rider in the weeds, a show truck etc. when you get that figured out then work your way in that direction keeping any work or mods inline with that thought pattern. it is waaay cheaper in the long run.
it is your truck and your plan but, like coupeguy says, everybody else has power steering and brakes so an upgrade in that area would be beneficial for sure, unless you don't plan on driving on the freeway where quick stops can mean the difference between filling your pants or filling the back of an ambulance. standard steering is also a pain to park in any modern parking lot. I am sure they use a smart car for a width standard. please, just keep it safe for yourself and the others who use the same road.
on the engine angle, the oil pan gasket surface is usually a good place to get the angle of the engine from. usually a down at the rear angle of about 3 deg, then check the pinion angle and see if it is an upward angle of about 3 deg. that will keep the vibrations down to a minimum. do these checks with the truck sitting on the wheels and at the normal ride height and rake angle, so engine and trans etc should be in as well as all the sheet metal and the box. a new crossmember isn't that tough to fabricate if you have a few skills but if you have the bellhousing for the original.......and wanna use that setup.......its your truck. they are a pain to get out are they not? can't imagine putting one back in. I removed my stock trans crossmember for the old 6 cyl and found it a royal pain to get out. maybe I didn't know some little trick?

[paulspickupparts]

I have several still in trucks . They are a real pain to get out and I had pretty much quit selling them due to the amount of time it takes to remove one properly. Also it pretty much makes that frame unusable for anything but parts. The last one I sold for $75 mainly due to time involved. Free part , the $75 was labor for removal. Thanks