Question about the front crossmember under core support

[Ghost's68]

i just removed the stock bottom rivets on the front cross member so I can install my ECE swaybar. Once I started punching out the passenger side one and the member shifted forward. This didn't seem right to me since I am unable to line up the holes to run the bolts through.

I noticed the cross member has a good bend in it and I'm guessing it's causing some stress on the metal and causing it to move. Can I replace this part? Is it even needed? Does the PB fab bolt in do the same thing?

Thanks guys

[jeffahart]

Is it sitting on the ground under load. Maybe jack up by the frame and take some load off, then you can porta power a bit to get the holes lined back up.

[Ghost's68]

Originally Posted by jeffahart

Is it sitting on the ground under load. Maybe jack up by the frame and take some load off, then you can porta power a bit to get the holes lined back up.

Right now the whole truck is on stands. I'm also installing an ECE drop kit. You think under its weight it will line backup?

[RodnRudy]

Take a tapered punch and drive it in the hole to line the two parts up. Then take a C clamp and clamp the two parts together, take the punch out and install the bolt lock washer and nut .remove the clamp and proceed to the other side and do the same.
Hope this helps. Phil

[jeffahart]

Originally Posted by Ghost's68

Right now the whole truck is on stands. I'm also installing an ECE drop kit. You think under its weight it will line backup?

That's quite possible, though it will probably never exactly line up without a little help. You can do like RodnRudy said, get the bolts in and cinched down and you'll be fine.

[jeffahart]

Also, you want to take down the mar/gouges from your air chisel. That way you get good member to member contact when you install the anti sway bar brackets. You are piggy backing on the cross member, and in my humble opinion that takes precedence. Just an extra thought to make sure you get a good assembly.

[Ghost's68]

Originally Posted by jeffahart

Also, you want to take down the mar/gouges from your air chisel. That way you get good member to member contact when you install the anti sway bar brackets. You are piggy backing on the cross member, and in my humble opinion that takes precedence. Just an extra thought to make sure you get a good assembly.

Originally Posted by RodnRudy

Take a tapered punch and drive it in the hole to line the two parts up. Then take a C clamp and clamp the two parts together, take the punch out and install the bolt lock washer and nut .remove the clamp and proceed to the other side and do the same.
Hope this helps. Phil

Thanks guys for the advice. These damn rivets don't want to budge. I sat there on the driver side for an easy 3 minutes with no signs of it budging. I'm using a 5/16 punch and a 3lb hammer. I'm going to try and soak them with some penetrating oil.

[RodnRudy]

You may have to drill a hole in the middle of the rivet, say 1/4" drill . That will give the rivet room to compress when you're driving it out. If need you can always drill the rivet completely out with appropriate size drill. Phil

[Grumpy old man]

A 4" grinder works in seconds to grind the rivit head off and drive it thru with a punch and 2 lb hammer using an air hammer is crazy , takes too long and scars the cross member or frame .

[randy500]

The crossmember is definitely required, it ties the 2 front rails together for the steering box to turn the wheels, without it or if it gets loose the truck will have a lot of play in the wheel because it will be flexing the frame rail and not turning the wheels or holding them straight.

BTW, I just removed a really nice front crossmember from a '71 if you need one...I think I offered it to another member here for $40 plus shipping.

[kwmech]

I just did this 2 weeks ago to my 68. Drill the rivet in the center, punch out. Where the member shifted, like stated before, line it up with a punch or screwdriver then clamp it (I happened to use vice-grips) Drill out the hole to 7/16. You'll need 1-1/4'' long bolts where it goes through the x-member and 1'' where it doesn't. The reason for drilling out is that the rivet holes seem to be between 3/8 and 7/16 which is usually 10mm. Putting a 3/8'' bolt in say a 10mm hole will allow the member to flex and move some. You want a tight fit. Grade 8 hardware also.

[Ghost's68]

Originally Posted by kwmech

I just did this 2 weeks ago to my 68. Drill the rivet in the center, punch out. Where the member shifted, like stated before, line it up with a punch or screwdriver then clamp it (I happened to use vice-grips) Drill out the hole to 7/16. You'll need 1-1/4'' long bolts where it goes through the x-member and 1'' where it doesn't. The reason for drilling out is that the rivet holes seem to be between 3/8 and 7/16 which is usually 10mm. Putting a 3/8'' bolt in say a 10mm hole will allow the member to flex and move some. You want a tight fit. Grade 8 hardware also.

I removed the head facing the ground but what's happening now is when i sit there trying to punch I actually just popped the rivet pit of the frame rail. 8 keep trying to feel if at the top it's coming out and I can't even feel any space between the top rail and the rivet head. Should I have removed both head then tried punching them out?

[kwmech]

Originally Posted by Ghost's68

Should I have removed both head then tried punching them out?

No, just drill a hole up through the center of the rivet. I happened to use a torch and an air hammer with a punch bit for my truck.