Fitting Doors

[MacQuigley]

Ive been attempting to refit one on my doors today following a reskin and bottom replacement.

The fit is OK ish but I'm having difficulty getting it fitting both top and bottom. With the bottom fitting the tips out and with the top fitting the bottom is out.

The best fit I can get is it fitting well on the bottom and at the front up top but the rear edge protrudes and it is very close at the front.

Any tips for getting a better fit?

[Eagletucky]

When I had this problem, i found no mechanical means to get the door to fit. I ended up using a long 2x4, some towels for cushioning, and utilized brute strength to force the top of the door back into position. I was amazed how much the door could be adjusted this way. I also remember seeing that this was actually a proven process in factory production (for ford) to tweak the doors, prior to paint.

Yes, this sounds crazy. Andy yes, it worked great. Just dont get to Gung Ho!!

[MacQuigley]

Doesn't sound crazy at all. I was hoping someone would suggest this as I can't see any other way. Tried adjusting the hinges all sorts of ways. Tried shimming the hinges but that doesn't help.

Looks like brute force may just be the answer.

[Eagletucky]

Sounds good! Resist the urge and leave the big hammers in the toolbox! Ha Ha!!

[andyh1956]

On later model trucks after hinge & bushing change I have had to bend the doors also. I use a floor jack & a block of wood under the door & some "Bouncy" shaking of the truck to get the door rear to come up. Like eagle said twisting the door may be your answer.

[MacQuigley]

I have tried jacking bit and that has helped. Also adjusted the lock and catch. It all helped but not enough.

But I will do more of that.

Oh and the big "melties" will stay in the toolbox just in case I'm tempted to have at it!

[jbgroby]

I have the same problem with the passenger door, All we can figure is the door was involved in an accident in its prior life. The door seems straight and we are going to use a 1/2" wrapped galvanized pipe to serve as a fulcrum point at the base of the door where the window frame starts and push the top of the door in a touch. I'll post some pictures when we do this.

[MacQuigley]

Well I have the door fitting reasonably well or as my old tech teacher used to say - line of best fit .

I'm still very close at that leading edge but it does clear - just. The rest is pretty much there but no matter what I do I cant gain any space on that leading edge, it always closes up again.

[Eagletucky]

So, you can't move the door any further back, I take it? That seems wierd, you have quite a gap at the back and it looks really tight at the front. At that location you may have a problem with the door catching the fender when you open and close.

[MacQuigley]

I don't think so. To move it back I'd need to shim it.

Looking at pictures of it when I got it this is pretty much the way it was. I may try shimming it again before skimming it with filler.

[MacQuigley]

Ive been thinking about why the forward gap is so tight. Considering it was tight before I started working on it and when I consider the original paint is a different colour to the rest of the cab I believe this is not the original door.

Is it possible differences in manufacturing between doors/vehicles could make such a difference?

[andyh1956]

I have SEEN some of my body shop buds grind a door / fender edge down & then weld a steel welding rod in to give the edge a radius. I myself would never go to so much trouble for a pickup, remember these are just trucks, and Chevy in particular all up until the late '80s never spared much effort on making body lines line up properly. Man even the TRIM on the '73 thru '87s they couldn't hit a straight line with!:waah

[60chevyjim]

did you loosen the bolts that hold the door hinges to the body to move the door back ?

[MacQuigley]

Ive loosened every bolt and moved it in every direction I can.

Got it fitting reasonably well now but I did have to grind and reshape that front edge a little.

The biggest issue I have now is that wedge shaped locator on the lock side. If I loosen it off the door shuts and locks nicely. If I tighten it in any position the door doesn't fit near as well, the lock usually doesn't catch and the wedge itself jams the door. So I think it will be left loose and that cant be right.

[ImpalaJim]

I put new repo doors on mine no fit either! I ended up reaming the bolt holes on the hinges with my die grinder and a file bit!

[MacQuigley]

After a little more tweeking, mainly with the lock keeper I got the first door lining up pretty well. I'm just finishing it will a little filler/bondo.



Just hope it goes back in place after I take it off for painting.

Still haven't tightened that wedge.

[MacQuigley]

Getting there. Not finished yet but close