Engine lift - Recommended tools and such. Any advice for the novice?

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

71 C-10 402 A/T.

I lifted an engine once. It was this truck in 1993. The tools were my buddy's and he led the R/R. This time I'm on my own...

Can anyone recommend a hoist and stand? I don't have any beams for hanging, but sure wish I did. This may be the one time I ever lift an engine, and space is at a premium. But a junk hoist and stand I can do without. I'm real green, and couldn't even tell you if one stand fits all.

Any suggestions for hardware used to lift the engine and placement, whether it be the manifold, heads or block? Other suggestions appreciated as well.

[my56chevytruck]

I can't really nail down where to get a good engine lift, but I'll tell you my experience. I went to a NAPA store and picked up an engine lift that was very well built, heavy duty and can handle excess of 2000#, I'd prefer to much weight than not enough. Then while I was looking into the lift, I needed the engine stand and again I said, it's for a big block, which covered the need I had years ago. I've used both several times with no issues. I've attached a picture of my engine stand with a 454 on it. on the engine stand, get at least a 1000# capacity. Northern Tool has good ones as does Summit Racing and Jegs. if your engine is carbureted, get a carb plate (Harbor Freight) or you can bolt to the back of one head and the front of the opposite head. By the way, you can rent these tools, just look up equipment rentals in your area.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

So you lifted using a carb plate huh?

Renting a hoist might be the ticket. I hadn't thought of that. Great idea, thank you. I'll buy a stand. Doesn't the engine mount to the stand using the same holes as the transmission?

[68bowtie]

engine hoist, carb plate, and engine stand. definitely the ticket. yep the engine bolts up to the stand same holes that the trans uses. you will need 4 longer bolts, the trans bolts are too short normally.

[truckster]

If you're only going to use it once I would rent. It will save you money and you won't need to worry about storage later.

[GR8-68]

I bought my motor hoist at harbor freight about 15 years ago, it has paid well for itself pulling many a motor and hoisting a few cabs also I have never even added but a little bit of oil to it. And they are on sale right now for 199, if it is something you think you would need again I would make the investment but if you would never use it again I would rent. Also on mine the legs fold up out of the way so it takes up less space in the corner of your garage

[Jrainman]

you can always find one or two on Craiglist at a great used price and if you decide to sell it you will get your money back.

[NorCalC20LWB]

X2 on the Harbor Freight, just make sure to get the 2 ton rated hoist. Works great for me, got it on sale for $180 or so. Probably can sell it for close to that now on Craigslist if needed.

[custom10nut]

If it's a one use, either rent or check Advance Auto. I borrowed one from them when I pulled my engine to rebuild. I just had to put the deposit on it, and then got it back on return. I don't know if they all do this, but it won't hurt to check. . Buy the engine stand. There relatively cheap and have more than one use, and don't take up a whole lot of space to store

[davepl]

My general advice is to rent that which you'll only need once.

Buy a cheap version of stuff you'll need twice, like an engine stand. Buy a Chinese version of whatever you need, but rated at twice the capacity for a safety margin.

If you need it all the time, buy an American-made, branded version like Snapon. Heck even Craftsman or Husky stuff is likely decent enough for home shops.

I have a few tools where I've progressed through all the steps and it would have been cheaper to just buy the good one first, but there are lots of tools I've only used once and the Chinese version served me well enough.

[FirstOwner69]

Here's a picture of my Harbor Freight 2 ton foldable hoist in action. It was under $200. The device linking the hoist to the engine is an "engine leveler" that attaches to the block and allows the engine angle to be varied. I didn't like the idea of lifting the engine using a carb plate. I also used the hoist for several other purposes including removing the box and even the springs from the hood hinges.

The transmission jack shown was also from Harbor Freight.

[jdw]

If space is at a premium the stock control arms sit apx 7 inches off the ground (anybody?), if you are going to front un/load the engine, make sure the lift will clear.
And I say rent one.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Thanks for all the responses. Yeah Jim I'm a little nervous about the carb plate, but I haven't heard of any problems. Can't really tell, but it looks like your on the manifold in four places? What are those, L-brackets? Is that part of the engine leveler?

[FirstOwner69]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

Thanks for all the responses. Yeah Jim I'm a little nervous about the carb plate, but I haven't heard of any problems. Can't really tell, but it looks like your on the manifold in four places? What are those, L-brackets? Is that part of the engine leveler?

Yup, the carb plate scared me. Especially with an aluminum manifold. Probably OK, but... As I recall, a carb plate seller at a car show also recommended using something else.

The brackets are part of the leveler. My leveler has the brand name of Larin and the brackets do attach to the heads.

Jim

[69chevytrucker]

Originally Posted by FirstOwner69

Yup, the carb plate scared me. Especially with an aluminum manifold. Probably OK, but... As I recall, a carb plate seller at a car show also recommended using something else.

The brackets are part of the leveler. My leveler has the brand name of Larin and the brackets do attach to the heads.

Jim

i agree a leveler is the only way to go i have dropped a block lifting it by the intake it was a aluminum intake and it pulled the threads i used to do it all the time with cast intakes but never again.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Thanks again. I'll get the leveler when the time comes. That's the easy part. I'm at the LH cab for now. It's so fun.

[NorCalC20LWB]

Just an FYI, got an email from Harbor Freight here in the Sacramento, CA area that their 2 ton hoist is on sale this weekend for $169. It's what I bought and worked well removing/installing a 350. No idea if this is a national or just a regional sale though.

[randy500]

Engine levelers are nice but only needed if taking out or installing engine and trans together. I use the carb plate method, I am not kidding when I say I have used it for over 100 engine pulls. On aluminum intakes you should carefully hand tighten the bolts to ensure they toruque up properly and the threads are strong. I would buy the hoist and engine stand off craigslist or offerup, lots of em on there for cheap.

[cdowns]

I vote on buying a good lift I had mine for close to twenty years and cant tell you the hundred or more things I used it for

as far as carb plates I never used one used a nice stout piece of chain for close to 50years never needed anything better

[Trevor]

Avoid 3-wheeled engine stands - period !
That's one tip I didn't see here and one that I can't stress enough, they are wayyyy too unstable.

I bought one 25 years ago, it was rated at 1000lbs and so it was built hefty enough for all my small block builds ... but seeing light under a back wheel while torquing-down head bolts was just a little unnerving - to say the least.
I've since modified my 3-wheeler with a 4th wheel among other things, but do yourself a favor and avoid buying, borrowing or renting anything with less than 4, and the wider and longer the better.

[biketopia]

Originally Posted by Trevor

Avoid 3-wheeled engine stands - period !
That's one tip I didn't see here and one that I can't stress enough, they are wayyyy too unstable.

I bought one 25 years ago, it was rated at 1000lbs and so it was built hefty enough for all my small block builds ... but seeing light under a back wheel while torquing-down head bolts was just a little unnerving - to say the least.
I've since modified my 3-wheeler with a 4th wheel among other things, but do yourself a favor and avoid buying, borrowing or renting anything with less than 4, and the wider and longer the better.

I read through all the responses hoping someone would say this. On an engine stand, get a 4 wheel version, the harbor freight 4 wheel heavy duty one is just fine and dandy for your small block, used it for years. You'll need some 3/8x16 bolts about 3 inches long to attach the block to the stand, use good grade 8 fasteners. I've used carb plates numerous times and so has my brother and they build custom cars for a living. If you don't like that just get a piece of 5/16 or 3/8 chain and do like one of the other members said and bolt to opposite heads front and rear and lift away, pulled and set many an engine that way with zero problems as well.

[motorcritter]

I've used my HF 2-ton hoist for several years and a whole lotta engine pulls. I look for engine stands on CraigsList, I pick them up cheaper than HF new ones, and they hold up well. A load leveller is a good addition, especially if you're installing engines. Makes lining things up much easier. I bolt up to the engine itself, I've never used a 'intake manifold plate', and I pull a wide variety of engines. It seems much more secure and there's no chance of dropping something because the manifold let loose. That's my experience. If you're into these trucks, you'll probably need all that stuff- for the next one you build!
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[DeadheadNM]

These Motofeet stands are slick inexpensive and USA made - have a 350 in the garage now bolted to the stands w rubber casters. Links below:

http://www.centuryperformance.com/mo...ock-chevy.html

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...6&postcount=65

[dflarsen77]

I'm pulling my engine soon. The carb plate is probably what I'll do, but if I wanted to do the chain to the opposites sides of each head, how would you secure the chain to it? I have the amount up by the water neck that my throttle return spring is hooked to, but it's not very thick metal so it doesn't seem like that's it.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Dollars to donuts the carb. plate works fine, and other posters confirm. This is a big block and I tend to overkill anyway, so I may blow the $50 for the leveler. For whatever it's worth, my manifold is original.

Can't answer your question for certain David, but seems you use the bolt holes immediately beneath the outside corner of the valve covers. At least on my BBC. Get some studs or just use bolts, grade 8 sounds like the ticket. Think I'd use at least large washers to prevent damaging the corners. Perhaps someone with experience can chime in.