centering rear axle?? 6" drop

[Suicide-D]

I used the ECE kit to do a 4/6 drop on my 70. I also replaced the trailing arm bushings with Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings. My problem is now that everything is bolted up the rear end is over to the right farther than it should be. How do I center the axle in order to tighten up the super track bar? I noticed alot of side to side play in the trailing arms before I put the bushings in. now there is hardly any play. Do I need to loosen the arms up front to get the axle centered? I didn't try this because it was getting late. Thanks in advance.

check out my updated Beater page for pics of it on the ground.


here are some pics of the driveshaft and rear end:

[Hotrod70C10]

I would imagine that if you jacked the truck back up and unbolted the pass. side of the track bar that the rear end would drop down and to the left (driver side). I would do that and then run the adjustable part all the way in then bolt it back up. and drop it back on the ground. You might have to do it a couple of times though. If that doesn't work, please let me know what does. I should have my 6" setup from ece wednesday. I'm planning on puttin it all in wednesday evening.

[Suicide-D]

thats my problem... if I unbolt the track bar the rear end shifts to the right (passsanger side) until the driveshaft is about a 1/4 of an inch from the loop in the cross member. I had hell getting it over the inch I have it now...and thats with the track bar off. I'm thinking my problem lies farther up front in the trailing ar bushings... the are super tight in the brackets.

[Tx Firefighter]

When I did my ECE super bar on the back, I just put a block of wood between the inside of the tire and the bed, so when I removed the bolt to adjust the length, the rear didn't shift very far. Then, I had someone push the truck from the side to allow me to get the bolt back into the hole.

[SCOTI]

I did an adjustable bar from the stock rear location to a modified frame mount. To center everything, I left the trailing arm bushings 'snug' but not torqued down. I measured/marked the differential cover w/a C/L mark in white grease pen & then did the same on one of the bed supports just above the pumpkin.

Next, I aligned the 2 marks as close as possible, adjusted the panhard bar length so it would slip into place & locked it in place w/the jam nut. Then I installed the now adjusted bar onto the rear end, tightened it up, jacked the truck up until all the weight was on the air-bags (suspension) & torqued the trailing arm bushing bolts down.

[Suicide-D]

alrighty then. I'll try it again this weekend. I was a little spooked when I had my buddy pushing on the rear end... I kept thinking the truck was going to fall off of the jack stands it was on and squish me...I'll try it again with the trailing arms looser, with some measured marks instead of trying to look at the driveshaft.

Thanks guys

[greatdaen]

As you work on the adjustments this weekend, just make sure you have All the joints loose - track bar and swing arms. Once you get bolts in place, then you can start tightening things up. If bolts won't go into place with everything loose, the you need to start adjusting things to get the bolt holes to line up.

If all my "motherhood and apple pie" comments still won't make things work out, I would start taking a good look at the symetry of the swing arms. One arm longer than the other would cause these problems... but if so, WHY is it longer. Perhaps the new urethane bushings caused a slight relocation of the front pivot point. A small amount at the front would make a big offset at the back...

Let us know how the next step works out.

-dch

[SCOTI]

Don't get under a vehicle on jackstands w/o giving it the 'test'. Once it's on the stands, 'shove' each (all 4) corner of the vehicle as hard as possible. If there's movement.... reset the stands until it's solid.

I do this everytime I work on my stuff. One time I gave it the shove & it actually fell over.... I'm sure glad I wasn't under it.

That being said, I was able to align my rearend w/o assistance so that should give you an idea how easy things should move.

[MOTHERTRUCKERS]

We use a come along to pull the rearend in line, from the pictures it looks like you have some shocks binding because of the angle of them, are they 6"drop shocks?

[Suicide-D]

Yeah they are 6" drop shocks. I used a come along to get it over on sunday. I think it was the trailing arm bushings causing my problem. they are tight as a drum in the brackets.


And I too shake the crap out of the truck when it is on stands... it still gives me the creeps.

[72longbed]

SuiD,
Those shocks are layed over too far, (IMO). Did you get the relocating kit for top and bottom? When they are installed layed over that far they can't do a very good job of absorbing shock.

I also installed the Energy Sus. Poly bushings and they were extreemly tight when installed. Did you make sure to use the lube that comes with them? Keeping everything loose until all arms, bolts, and so forth is where they need to go is best. Then put the weight of the truck on the ground before you finally torque everything. When trying to move the rear axle around, it helps to have the jackstands under the frame rails rather than rear axle. (You probably already know that).

Keep trying, it will go together unless one of the trailing arms is bent.

72longbed

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally posted by 72longbed
SuiD,
Those shocks are layed over too far, (IMO). Did you get the relocating kit for top and bottom? When they are installed layed over that far they can't do a very good job of absorbing shock.

I think you're right. It looks like his upper shock relocators are installed backwards. Here's a picture of mine, and the shocks look more straight up and down.

[Suicide-D]

I made an errror??? I will have to be alone for awhile to see if I can accept this.... just kidding

I don't remember how I mounted them. I bought the full 4/6 drop kit. I don't recall it having that detailed of instructions though, I can see where I could easily overlook something... I was chapped by one of the rivets in the original shock mounts... took an act of congress to get it out and I had ground the head off flush....

I will look at this next weekend... bugs me my truck is an hour away from me all week


thanks

[Suicide-D]

found another picture... from the looks of it... they are backwards if they are supposed to be mounted like TX firefighter's... no big deal I have to go under there this weekend anyway to deal with the brakes and install the new intermidiate e-brake cable.




and now that I think about it... they were binding it seems at the bottom.... dumb@ss....I hope I didn't screw them up....

DOH!!

[72longbed]

No big deal,

nothin' that you, a wrench and 15 minutes can't fix.

Question for ya, at ride height, where do you want the center of your rear U-joint to be?

72longbed

[Suicide-D]

Inline with the front u-joint? I finally got the sucker centered to my satisfaction... I had to use a come along to do it. I will be getting an alignment in the next few weeks... they can tell me if it is centered, can't they?

[72longbed]

Inline with the front u-joint is good, but what if the front u-joint is off center between the frame rails?

72

[Suicide-D]

I'll see if I can get my fat butt under the truck with it at ride height and measure some things. Glad I'm only afraid of heights....not confined spaces..

[Hotrod70C10]

I've got a quick question, Do you have any form of bumpstops? I ended up using the stock bumpstops but, I cut them down to where they were about 1/2 inch below the frame. It probably won't do any good if I hit a big enough hole to move the rear up that high though.

[Suicide-D]

stock bumpstops for now... un cut I'm waiting to see if I need to mess with them...

[Suicide-D]

they were on backwards....DOH!!