70 C-10 U-joints

[matthamby]

Hello to all!

Hey guys, I'm having a small problem. I replaced the rear u-joint a few months ago, while doing so we noticed that the front and intermediate need to be replaced soon. I went to O'Reilly's Auto Parts, they don't have a stock part for those 2 parts. For some reason I was under the impression that all three were the same part. Would someone confirm that, or tell me what part number and where I can get those?

Thanks,

Matt

[B. W.]

If I'm correct, they are all the same. The Spicer # should be 5-153X.
Bobby

[matthamby]

Thanks,

I will advise once I have them!

[brad_man_72]

Spicer 5-1310x if you want the good ones.

Why not take it to a drive shaft shop since it needs to be rebalanced anyways (especially if its the ld carrier bearing)? They might notice something you wouldn't.

[LongBox]

Originally Posted by brad_man_72

Spicer 5-1310x if you want the good ones.

Why not take it to a drive shaft shop since it needs to be rebalanced anyways (especially if its the ld carrier bearing)? They might notice something you wouldn't.

Plus one on driveshaft straightening/balancing. Made a huge difference on another vehicle I had. And, I'm not sure if it's a do-able, but the 88-98 pickups have a large diameter aluminum driveshaft and no center steady bearing. Not sure if you could do that to your truck, but someone else may chime in.

[matthamby]

if you mark it correctly, it shouldn't need to be re-balanced, plus it takes more $$$ that I don't have at the moment to take it to a shop. I'll replace them, then if I need them balanced, I'll take it to the shop. right now everything feels good and no noticeable noise, etc...

I'm trying to get it to be dependable while I am working on getting other items replaced - like a new rear axle and tranny, which may require the drive shaft to be replaced. At that point I'll probably need a shop to build me a new drive shaft. I do appreciate the help!

[B. W.]

Originally Posted by brad_man_72

Spicer 5-1310x if you want the good ones.

Why not take it to a drive shaft shop since it needs to be rebalanced anyways (especially if its the ld carrier bearing)? They might notice something you wouldn't.

X2
Sorry, should have listed those, they are "Lube for Life". My favorites!

[matthamby]

Thanks guys!

I'll use the 153x ones, I have to lube everything once a year anyway. plus as stated hopefully in the next 2 to 3 years I'm going to have to have a driveshaft made for it. Right now I've got a low HP 305, i'm driving it about 40 miles a week on average (haul trash and the occasional trip to Lowe's), so it's not critical that I get the really nice ones.

[brad_man_72]

Definetly mark everything. But the balance will change when you start changing parts like ujoints or carrier bearings. I know because I've had shafts in a balancer, taken them out, changed a joint or bearing and put the shaft back in the balancer, every time the balance will change. This isn't a big problem with a one piece shaft or even a 2 piece shaft with a standard horseshoe style carrier bearing, the light duty cb that gm used in the 60s will not last with an out of balance condition. You won't feel it in the butt dyno because the cb rubber is the softest cb rubber mount that I've seen out of thousands of drive shafts.

You can go to a one piece shaft but it has to be made from 3.5" diameter tubing. A large aluminum shaft won't fit through the trailing arm crossmember. Many shops won't build a one piece 3.5" shaft for a lwb 67-72 because the length exceeds the tubings limits under some circumstances. I've built a dozen or so with no issues.

[wbc409]

You will need to measure the length carefully. The local drive shaft shop told me they wouldn't build a shaft over 70 inches.