No Limit's "K-10"

[jonny..2008]

saw the truck on the cover at safeway and was stopped dead in my tracks.
fantasic work and a great cover and article.
be satisfied but keep pushing. if that makes any sense.......

[robnolimit]

Thanks again for all the support. Just got home from SEMA and the OUSCI, totaly worn out.

[ccracin]

How'd it go at Optima Rob? Would love to hear a run down of your experience there!

[robnolimit]

It's coming. give me a day or two

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Cant wait for this!!!!!

[808_67C10]

I saw Hell boy on American Hot Rod. They were showing off Detroit Steels time attack Nova and Second gen Camaro... Lots a muscle cars but very few trucks on the show... They must have been scared to get punked by some old trucks! Keep em coming Rob!
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[robnolimit]

Thanks. We'll be comin strong from the start this year, no where to hide any more.

[808_67C10]

We have time attack here in Hawaii... Hopefully I can tighten up my suspension a little ant take it out to run through some cones! I have the power and gearing just have to make the truck handle on a budget....
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[Greywolf200]

Saw the article in Street Trucks on the manifold/cam swap on Hellboy. Was it a typo that dropped 50HP on the swap? The final numbers looked good.

[jayman68]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

Update

In determining the placement of the holes in the grill, what did you line the holes up with for cooling?

Hold on, the radiator is in the back.... are the holes in the grill for the intake air?

[robnolimit]

The grill openings are for other cooling. brake ducts, oil cooler, and cold air inlet (engine)

[Dieselwrencher]

Rob, are you guys doing the Good Guys auto cross circuit again this year?

[Extended72]

Rob, how much for a set of flared fenders?
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[68 SWB]

Hellboy is getting some love on the Auto Meter Facebook page today!

[hotrod1]

Hey Rob:

Can you tell us what you have learned about mounting the radiator in the back? How come you went to an electric pump; volume? What size tubes did u use? Is it able to cool well or is it a tough one? Does the scoop really make a difference? If you went half way back in the bed, would everything been easier? Would you do it again? Any thing else - suggestions? Thanks!

[-Greg72]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

this is the hard part to fit. I made a tape template first to get the shape, the trimmed the metal to fit.

Hi Rob.....

I sure hope you are still subscribed to this thread (it's been 4 years!). I work slowly, so it took me a while to get to the point where I could ask you this question. I've been studying these photos for a while and trying to understand how you accomplished this:





There are two major components to this, the front vertical arch shape (Yellow Arrow) and the transition piece that connects that wider arch to the original bedside. (Red Arrow)


The first part (vertical arch) seems pretty straightforward. Just pick a new larger radius and cut a band that is between 1.25" and 1.5" wide (to match the factory lip dimensions)... then attach it to the lower bedsides with Clecos and start finessing the top of the arch to whatever amount of extra flare you like.

The filler section (red arch) is the one that I'm most confused about. How did you determine how wide to make that filler at the very top of the arch? It looks like maybe 3.5 - 4"?? Then tapers-down to perhaps 1.25" at the ends? I was curious if there was a specific trick to picking those dimensions or if it was purely based on aesthetics and a lot of trial-and-error?

I'm asking because I've got a similar problem to solve on my 1972 K5 Blazer. The additional challenge is that the tires stick out about 3" beyond the stock fenders, so I can't see any possible way to build a decent looking flare that will actually cover the tire. The best I can hope for is to follow the tire shape and leave maybe 1/2" of clearance all the way around it when the suspension is fully-bottomed out so that it won't touch.

I moved my rear axle back about 3".....so my wheel arch is nowhere near "centered" as a starting point.




This is basically how it looks with tape and paper to create a radius from the wheel center (suspension at full-compression). This allows me to draw the marks for the "yellow arrow" arch piece that goes on first.

I'm just using a long section of threaded rod and nuts to create a large "compass" that can hold my Sharpie markers and transfer the curves to paper.







My questions are:

1. How did you create that filler panel shape initially? Was that traced out on flat sheet and then rolled gently to give it the right "curve"?

2. Were you somehow able to determine the taper ahead of time (where it touches the bedside) or what that just a tedious process of trimming, test fitting and marking to eventually get a tight fitment?

3. Any other cautionary tales or lessons-learned you'd be willing to share about that process?




I'm going to struggle through this process and get it figured out no matter what, but I was hoping you might have a few words of advice or help to get me through it a little easier.


Thanks in advance.


-G

[robnolimit]

First off, that's pretty bad ass! OK, I looked back in the thread, and I never posted the 'how' trick. 1) I made a small 'angle gauge' out of sheet metal, 1/2" wide 4" long 19 ga., then bent it about 1 1/2" in to the angle of the OE lip. (from the flat surface around the opening) 2) with the new opening defined and pulled out, I used the angle gauge to project the slope back onto the bedside. I made marks about every inch all the way around. 3) then I free hand connected the dots to make the new slope connection arc on the bedside. 4) make a masking tape template. This works out so cool you'll laugh. One piece at a time, your going to lay out masking tape from the new outer face, sloped back (in the air) and connect to the bed side nice and tight at the new connection point arc line. Lay the tape out in a radial direction, like bicycle spokes, all the way around. Use cheap 1 1/2" wide tape. Overlap a good 1/2" on every piece, until you have a solid flare built out of tape. Use a sharpie and draw out the seam line from the tape to the outer lip, and from the tape to the bedside. - I spray the backside of the tape with WD-40 to kill the rest of the sticky. 5) use a razor to cut out the tape template. When you have it cut off and lay it flat, it will be the perfect template to cut out the sheetmal to make the arc slope.
All that being said, you may want to look at 'bubbling out the fenders, more like a late dirt stadium truck. - but thats a lot more work.


Please share more picts, very cool project

[-Greg72]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

First off, that's pretty bad ass! OK, I looked back in the thread, and I never posted the 'how' trick. 1) I made a small 'angle gauge' out of sheet metal, 1/2" wide 4" long 19 ga., then bent it about 1 1/2" in to the angle of the OE lip. (from the flat surface around the opening) 2) with the new opening defined and pulled out, I used the angle gauge to project the slope back onto the bedside. I made marks about every inch all the way around. 3) then I free hand connected the dots to make the new slope connection arc on the bedside. 4) make a masking tape template. This works out so cool you'll laugh. One piece at a time, your going to lay out masking tape from the new outer face, sloped back (in the air) and connect to the bed side nice and tight at the new connection point arc line. Lay the tape out in a radial direction, like bicycle spokes, all the way around. Use cheap 1 1/2" wide tape. Overlap a good 1/2" on every piece, until you have a solid flare built out of tape. Use a sharpie and draw out the seam line from the tape to the outer lip, and from the tape to the bedside. - I spray the backside of the tape with WD-40 to kill the rest of the sticky. 5) use a razor to cut out the tape template. When you have it cut off and lay it flat, it will be the perfect template to cut out the sheetmal to make the arc slope.
All that being said, you may want to look at 'bubbling out the fenders, more like a late dirt stadium truck. - but thats a lot more work.


Please share more picts, very cool project

AWESOME!!!!

Rob, thank you so much for responding.... I'm going to print out your comments and look them over tonight when I can stand in front of the truck and look at everything.

I'm happy to post more pics but I don't want to mess up this thread with my own project and struggles.... I've got a build thread going on CK5.com and Pirate4x4 currently. It's a '72 K5 with a 4-Link rear, 3-Link front and a hybrid Ford Axle (2.47 gears) with Unimog 404 portal box outers.

I just finished building a set of 304 Stainless "outboard" headers for my engine... since the front suspension ate up all the room where headers would normally go.... BOY, did I learn a lot from that project. Never worked with TIG before...or stainless.... or scratch-building headers for that matter. So I'm having a great time experimenting and teaching myself as I go....

Anyway. Here's a link to my build thread and about 2000 more photos (I'd start front from the very end and read it backwards to see the newest fun stuff first)....

http://ck5.com/forums/threads/72-k5-...24462/page-307


If you're willing, I'd love to post up some progress pics of my attempt on these fender flares and get your feedback.



-G

[robnolimit]

I was looking for some info over the weekend, and found it on this thread. As I was looking around, I had a chance to think back about this project. The Truck has been campaigned now for five years, and we just finished the fifth season with Good-Guys, SCCA, and the USCA. So, here are some thoughts and info.

When the truck came out, it was a game changer. Unfortunately, it was never covered by the larger 'truck' magazines. Years ago I had called them out for "selling" tech space on a pay for play bases, only to favored advertisers, and none of the editors had the stones to cover it anyway, against the Add sales wishes. Again, I think they did the "Truckin" community a dis-service. Thank god for the interweb and sites like this to
get the news out.

I wish we were better at video, and editing and loading. We do have a ton of video, just never got it loaded, but I think I'm going to make that a winter project. Some of the testing video and stuff we learned is pretty cool.

The HellBoy has been more successful than I ever dreamed. I'd like to say that it's never been beat, but that's not 100% true. It has been beat by a few very fast cars, and on one occasion, a truck ended up finishing better than us. That was in Columbus at the Good-Guys sponsor shootout. We were the fastest qualifier but got bumped in the second round by Brian Finch (Camaro), and Brad Coomer driving Trent Summer's "#9" C10 (with No Limit suspenion) got around Kyle Tucker for the win. So, this was not a heads up, or fastest lap type of race, but the Black C10 did finish better than the HellBoy that day. That is the only time a truck of any kind has bested the HellBoy.

In five years we have racked up the following:
2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016 Good-Guys Pro Class Truck National Champion
2013 Good-Guys Pro Class National Champion
2012, 2013, 2014 OUSCI competitor, top finish of 15th, the highest placement of any truck ever.
Four USCA class wins
Three "Truckin Throwdown wins (then we were outlawed) HAHAHA
Fourteen SCCA Cam-T wins
and many many more.

This last year was the toughest yet. The cars are getting faster, and we may have to step things up a bit. More competitive trucks are being built, and as of yet, no one is close, but they are coming, and we want to stay ahead. I'll try to keep you all posted as to what's going on, and thanks for all the interest and support.

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Good to see you on here rob

[gringoloco]

Astounding. I've seen gobs of print on this one, but never realized it didn't get a full feature. Damned shame...

[oldman3]

Rob, you've been good to this site, with all your knowledge and willing to share. Best to you in the future and keep 'em guessing...Jim

[mcbassin]

Thanks for bringing this thread to the top. I had the pleasure of checking out this truck at Fort Worth Goodguys show. This thing is a beast! Love to watch it run.
Rob was super cool and nice to visit with. Thanks for taking the time to share info about the truck.

[Greywolf200]

Both your projects have been inspiring.