Fuel Tank removal Help and questions

[snacob14]

Just have a few questions about tank removal. I have an 87 short bed 2wd. One has a bad sender, and the other is leaking. I"m replacing the leaking side tank which is on the drivers side.

Whats the process, I wish I had the time to lay under it and figure it out, but with a new baby and a job I'm really on a time crunch. I see the bolts on the inside of the frame. Will those loosen up the cradles that hold the tank in? I really just want to drop it and replace it.

Also, my gauge jumps all over the place. It reads, but it will bounce back and forth a quarter of a tank at a time. Is that the sender, or the gauge? Thanks in advance for the help.

[D-Day]

If you're just dropping the tank to replace the sender, it shouldn't be too bad. When I did mine, I replaced everything, so I'm not sure how stubborn that sender is gonna be to get out...but the actual dropping of the tank is easy peazy. I used an air ratchet, occasionally an impact wrench to break the bolts loose, but after that it came right out.

You may want to pick up new hoses for the tank, sender and etc. while you have it out anyway, because some of them may be easily damaged/cracked in the process of getting it out.

Good luck.

[westofb]

Drive it till it's on vapors before you start taking it out!

[old Rusty C10]

if your truck has any kind of rust on it this will be a few hour job. The tanks with the straps come off with those bolts through the frame, and a floorjack can be used to support the tank while you lower it slightly . The tank will only fall a few inches then you have to cut or remove the rubber fuel lines. Once the tank is on the ground you can try to remove the strap parts for the tank. I just replaced everything and got all my parts at advanced
I got longer rubber pieces to make it easier to connect everything back up and to swap tanks side to side you need to reverse the tank supports as they go on opposite direction each side ( at least on a long bed long tank)
any specific questions just ask

[snacob14]

ok, thanks for hte resonses. I'm going to go at this on sunday most likely. And theirs plenty of rust. but I'm hoping it won't be as huge of a headache as I'm thinking. I'm planning on doing the flip and spindles while I'm at it, so the bed will be off, hopefully helping make things more accessable.

[old Rusty C10]

the bed off makes it alot easier.... count on buying new straps

[D-Day]

Putting the straps on my tank was probably the most difficult aspect of the whole project. Plus I was using a thick piece of tow strap as padding, so it took me a good 45 minutes for each bracket wrestling them on there and bolting them down.

[tucsonjwt]

All info above is good. Soak liquid wrench or equivalent any threads on the fasteners holding the tank in place the day before you start, if possible. I just used some concrete blocks and 2 x 4 s to hold the tank up while I was unfastening it, then pulled out the 2 x 4 s one at a time to ease the tank down to the ground slowly, making sure not to rip/tweak any lines. Definitely invest in some new rubber hoses to connect to your hard fuel lines. Your 87 may have a vapor recovery cannister so you want to check that out if you have one.
I replaced both senders in my 83 C20 recently because of an erratic gauge, and that did not fix the problem - had to buy a new fuel gauge (about $50),
I prefer to use the GM style gaskets for the sending units. The aftermarket sending units have round universal style o rings - GM ones have some tabs made to fit your tank and shaped to fit the opening on your tank. I'm sure either will work, but I just like the GM style.

[TheGreenCoyote]

Yesterday, with the bed still on, I removed and replaced the passenger-side tank on my '73 long bed. I had bought new straps for the new tank but I could not figure out what attached the straps to the old bracket on the truck so I just used the old straps on the new tank--they seemed structurally sound. I did use the anti-squeak kit and replaced all the hoses nearby and the sending unit of course. It took me several hours to get the job done. It will help to have someone help you balance and line-up the tank & bracket to the truck frame.
I am curious now if someone can tell me just how those straps attach to the bracket?

[HOGDADDY]

Originally Posted by old Rusty C10

the bed off makes it alot easier.... count on buying new straps

I agree take the bed off first. Also imho no anti-squeak pad is needed and I don't believe there was one originally.

[old Rusty C10]

ive done about six of these tanks on the trucks ive had over the years. I use roofing felt paper as an anti squeak/ buffer between the tank and strap. With the new straps you have to grind or drill out the old rivets and then use stainless nuts washers and bolts to attach the new ones

[TheGreenCoyote]

Ah! Thanks old Rusty C10! I could not fugure out how to attach those straps. I hope the old ones hold. They seemed strong.

[Harley03joe]

Originally Posted by old Rusty C10

if your truck has any kind of rust on it this will be a few hour job. The tanks with the straps come off with those bolts through the frame, and a floorjack can be used to support the tank while you lower it slightly . The tank will only fall a few inches then you have to cut or remove the rubber fuel lines. Once the tank is on the ground you can try to remove the strap parts for the tank. I just replaced everything and got all my parts at advanced
I got longer rubber pieces to make it easier to connect everything back up and to swap tanks side to side you need to reverse the tank supports as they go on opposite direction each side ( at least on a long bed long tank)
any specific questions just ask

I Have An 87 Duel Tank Short bed And I Have 3 Choices
#1 Drop The Tank
#2 Lift The Bed Up
#3 Cut The Bed Open To Get To The Tank Senders
That Would Be Very Easy The Go To Junk Yard Cut Old Bed panels Screw Then On Top Of The 2 Holes, Put The Bed Liner Back Then I'm Done.

I'm 74 And I'm Not Going To Do All That Hard Work
What Do You Folks Think ?
Harley03joe

Click here: 87 chevy r10 Gas Dual Tank Selector Valve - AOL Video Search Results

[Harley03joe]

Originally Posted by Harley03joe

I Have An 87 Duel Tank Short bed And I Have 3 Choices
#1 Drop The Tank
#2 Lift The Bed Up
#3 Cut The Bed Open To Get To The Tank Senders
That Would Be Very Easy The Go To Junk Yard Cut Old Bed panels Screw Then On Top Of The 2 Holes, Put The Bed Liner Back Then I'm Done.

I'm 74 And I'm Not Going To Do All That Hard Work
What Do You Folks Think ?
Harley03joe

Click here: 87 chevy r10 Gas Dual Tank Selector Valve - AOL Video Search Results

A Few Pictures Of My Fix

[Harley03joe]

removed by harley03joe

[1988 1 ton]

I tore both of my tanks out. Wasn't too bad, but I am having issues putting it back in

[Low69CST]

I just did this on my 4wd. The sending units are under the cab. We couldn't pull the rubber lines off the sending unit. We had to cut the rubber lines. On the passenger side, the rubber lines connect to the selector valve. That's very difficult to get to.

Sounds like a bad ground could be causing the gas gauge. You can reach the ground by just removing the bed.

[Malo83]

I want to drop both saddle tanks and just go with a Blazer type tank, what would this involve ?

[rgunlock]

Originally Posted by D-Day

Putting the straps on my tank was probably the most difficult aspect of the whole project. Plus I was using a thick piece of tow strap as padding, so it took me a good 45 minutes for each bracket wrestling them on there and bolting them down.

I had the same issue when I attempted to use new straps with a padding. What I finally figure out was 1) remove the padding and just get the straps on, 2) as you are doing this "dry run" fitting of the straps, tap the strap around the corners of the tank to get a close fit, then 3) remove the straps, stick the padding in and tighten back up.

At least it was do-able this way.