Door gap size

[hotrod1]

Doing a 56 with a very rigid chassis. What would be appropriate door gap measurement? 1/8, 3/16?

Thanks in advance!

[Dan in Pasadena]

Not sure it matters as long as it looks good to you AND you make it as consistent as possible from one end to the other....and it ain't easy on these trucks because they never fit all that well from the factory.

[Bushwickbill]

i like something around 1/8 to 3/16

[my56chevytruck]

Originally Posted by hotrod1

Doing a 56 with a very rigid chassis. What would be appropriate door gap measurement? 1/8, 3/16?

Thanks in advance!

I have a 56 and the gapping i have is 3/16, BUT, as already said, as long as it's consistent front and back and up and down, and you're happy, what else matters!! my 2 cents!!

[dsraven]

lots of guys use a paint stick as a guide to keep all the gaps the same or close. I think a paint stick is 1/8". you can use several on a door when adjusting. leave the hinges sort of loose so the door can be moved with some muscle,install some paint sticks in the gap areas, then tighten the hinge bolts. it may work, doesn't always. it is nice to have a friend help who can be the inside guy on the wrenches or the outside guy with the sticks. sometimes leaving the door latch off can help as well because the door isn't being forced up, down or inward. like said above, as long as they are consistent and you like it, then all is good. don't get hung up on what everybody else thinks, it's your truck, do what you like. that is what hotrodding is all about. oh yeah, make sure the door seals actually seal after as well.

[_Ogre]

1/8 gaps means you will be doing a lot of touch up painting
truk has a fully boxed chassis and a substantial welded in x-member but still flexes considerably

[dsraven]

you could also make your own gap tools from a stick of wood or a piece of plastic. plastic shops usually have some scraps laying around that they give away or sell cheap. no marring that way and they don't usually compress like wood does.

[dsraven]

good thinking ogre. the door hinges are also not exactly precision. my new hinges allow the door to sag a bit when the it opens.

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by dsraven

good thinking ogre. the door hinges are also not exactly precision. my new hinges allow the door to sag a bit when the it opens.

Then raise it up so when it sags it sags to the proper height. Your striker should NOT be pushing the door up when shutting it!


Brian

[hotrod1]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

1/8 gaps means you will be doing a lot of touch up painting
truk has a fully boxed chassis and a substantial welded in x-member but still flexes considerably

Ogre - what is your thought on the gap size without chipping?

[dsraven]

thanks for the advice martinsr, I will do that when I do the final fit for the door. then pin everything so it goes back the same after dissassembly/paint etc (or at least that is the plan).

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by dsraven

thanks for the advice martinsr, I will do that when I do the final fit for the door. then pin everything so it goes back the same after dissassembly/paint etc (or at least that is the plan).

I have to tell you, with how difficult these panels are to fit doors and hoods and fenders I would seriously think if you don't have a bunch of experience in this stuff, paint the jambs and hang the parts to paint the outsides.

The MONUMENTAL job of hanging these parts painted without chipping them is too much a head ache for the tiny bit better finished job. You can tape off door jambs nicely and end up with something barely noticeable.

Building the truck should be fun, doing it that way is, painting it apart and hanging all those panels painted, is NOT fun.

Here is a little "Basics of Basics" on the subject. http://www.autobodystore.com/ms27.shtml
And another on masking stuff like that.
http://www.autobodystore.com/ms24.shtml

Brian

[dsraven]

martinsr, that is what I had planned to do, fit fenders and doors for gaps I can live with, weld on or grind off as required. remove, paint jambs and door interior surfaces and interior of cab, reattach doors to cab and then paint the truck as a unit. less chance of paint blushing etc.
57 gmc fabbing into extended cab.
whaddya think? that work?

[dsraven]

sorry hotrod1, didn't mean to jack your thread. sorta relevant though I guess.

[hotrod1]

Originally Posted by dsraven

sorry hotrod1, didn't mean to jack your thread. sorta relevant though I guess.

Its all good. Anything doors is great. These trucks are junk when it comes to fit so all the frustration venting is good. It helps us all understand them a little more. I have spent days adjusting doors and its not good yet.

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by dsraven

martinsr, that is what I had planned to do, fit fenders and doors for gaps I can live with, weld on or grind off as required. remove, paint jambs and door interior surfaces and interior of cab, reattach doors to cab and then paint the truck as a unit. less chance of paint blushing etc.
57 gmc fabbing into extended cab.
whaddya think? that work?

Looks awesome!

Brian

[dsraven]

thanks. it is some 18ga sheet I bent over some stuff I had in the shop to make the curves. built a break on the end of my bench for the bottom bends.lots of fitting involved.

[dsraven]

check to make sure the doors are not cracked inside around the hinge mounts. mine were off a farm truck and the doors were cracked inside enough so even the piece of metal between the window channels-inside to outside-near the vent window was cracked. the inner skin had seperated around some of the spot welds as well. the door becomes floppy then and is impossible to adjust.

[hotrod1]

Originally Posted by dsraven

thanks for the advice martinsr, I will do that when I do the final fit for the door. then pin everything so it goes back the same after dissassembly/paint etc (or at least that is the plan).

I would sure like to know how you guys drill and pin the hinges on the door and cab side (pictures please). I have spent the last day getting the door straight just to do the gaps. I think all my bolts are starting to gall as the have been in and out so many times.

[my56chevytruck]

not only use a paint stick along the door gaps, but try using one or two together in the bottom before tightening.

[_Ogre]

3/16 is a minimum, 1/4 is fine

[hotrod1]

Does anyone have any suggestions on drilling the hinges so they can easily take the door off and have an easy install next time?

[OrrieG]

Once the gaps are set, use an 1/8" drill bit thru hinge to cab, and hinge to door hinge brace. You now have index points at the four variable points. You can do the same for the door jamb latch too.

[hotrod1]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

Once the gaps are set, use an 1/8" drill bit thru hinge to cab, and hinge to door hinge brace. You now have index points at the four variable points. You can do the same for the door jamb latch too.

Thank you.