What 5 lug disc rear ends can be used to swap in a 69nc10

[smashmix]

I have a 69 c 10 that has the 5 lug swap all around but i want to put disc brakes on the rear is tgere a rear end that we can swap in the old ones place or what would you guys suggest
Trying to keep it budget friendly

Thanks guys i appreciate the help

[GR8-68]

Is it a budget when you buy the parts and then have to start replacing parts ? I learned this the harder way myself. Here is a decent deal on ebay it is worth the no hassle plan.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/230845329214...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[smashmix]

Doesnt seem like a bad deal at all thanks for the info

[LongBox]

I believe that the rear axles from early 90s Chev Caprices with the police package, and the Buick Roadmaster station wagon will fit, and have the disc rear brakes. Should be lots of them in the boneyards. Ring and pinion ratio may be an issue, though.

[Hatzman]

I have a 79 Cadillac Seville rear in mine. CPP sells necessary parts to convert it to our truck.

Works great!

[smashmix]

Awesome ill check it out thanks
Do you remember what gears are in it or did you just change them

[franken]

Rear brakes provide ~20% braking action and pedal feel. What's the point? Less brake fade? Without redoing (as in cutting and welding) spring and shock mounts, no swap is going to happen.
I'd suggest you get a lug pattern thing, mark it with your pattern (on the front), measure WMS-WMS, spring centers and go to the scrap yard with a tape measure.
There are lots of scrapyards in our area...

[smashmix]

The truck is gonna be bagged and bodied with a 500 plus hp ls6 so brakes are a must lol

[weq92f]

Originally Posted by franken

What's the point? Less brake fade? ...

1) getting rid of the drums, shoes, cylinders, springs and related.
2) easy maintenance
3) looks A++ over drums

[Willie Makeit]

take it from someone already been down this path, the only thing rear disc brakes get you is cosmetics

[GR8-68]

Drum Brakes

Early automotive brake systems, after the era of hand levers of course, used a drum design at all four wheels. They were called drum brakes because the components were housed in a round drum that rotated along with the wheel. Inside was a set of shoes that, when the brake pedal was pressed, would force the shoes against the drum and slow the wheel. Fluid was used to transfer the movement of the brake pedal into the movement of the brake shoes, while the shoes themselves were made of a heat-resistant friction material similar to that used on clutch plates.

This basic design proved capable under most circumstances, but it had one major flaw. Under high braking conditions, like descending a steep hill with a heavy load or repeated high-speed slow downs, drum brakes would often fade and lose effectiveness. Usually this fading was the result of too much heat build-up within the drum. Remember that the principle of braking involves turning kinetic energy (wheel movement) into thermal energy (heat). For this reason, drum brakes can only operate as long as they can absorb the heat generated by slowing a vehicle's wheels. Once the brake components themselves become saturated with heat, they lose the ability to halt a vehicle, which can be somewhat disconcerting to the vehicle's operator.

Disc Brakes

Though disc brakes rely on the same basic principles to slow a vehicle (friction and heat), their design is far superior to that of drum brakes. Instead of housing the major components within a metal drum, disc brakes use a slim rotor and small caliper to halt wheel movement. Within the caliper are two brake pads, one on each side of the rotor, that clamp together when the brake pedal is pressed. Once again, fluid is used to transfer the movement of the brake pedal into the movement of the brake pads.

But unlike drum brakes, which allow heat to build up inside the drum during heavy braking, the rotor used in disc brakes is fully exposed to outside air. This exposure works to constantly cool the rotor, greatly reducing its tendency to overheat or cause fading. Not surprisingly, it was under racing circumstances that the weaknesses of drum brakes and the strengths of disc brakes were first illustrated. Racers with disc brake systems could carry their speed "deeper" into a corner and apply greater braking force at the last possible second without overheating the components. Eventually, as with so many other automotive advances, this technology filtered down to the cars driven by everyday people on public roads.

[Andy4639]

I did the CPP rear disc brake swap.

In my opinion save the money do your drums right and spend the money on something else.
here is my story.


http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=651954

[Willie Makeit]

Originally Posted by GR8-68

Drum Brakes

Early automotive brake systems, after the era of hand levers of course, used a drum design at all four wheels. They were called drum brakes because the components were housed in a round drum that rotated along with the wheel. Inside was a set of shoes that, when the brake pedal was pressed, would force the shoes against the drum and slow the wheel. Fluid was used to transfer the movement of the brake pedal into the movement of the brake shoes, while the shoes themselves were made of a heat-resistant friction material similar to that used on clutch plates.

This basic design proved capable under most circumstances, but it had one major flaw. Under high braking conditions, like descending a steep hill with a heavy load or repeated high-speed slow downs, drum brakes would often fade and lose effectiveness. Usually this fading was the result of too much heat build-up within the drum. Remember that the principle of braking involves turning kinetic energy (wheel movement) into thermal energy (heat). For this reason, drum brakes can only operate as long as they can absorb the heat generated by slowing a vehicle's wheels. Once the brake components themselves become saturated with heat, they lose the ability to halt a vehicle, which can be somewhat disconcerting to the vehicle's operator.

Disc Brakes

Though disc brakes rely on the same basic principles to slow a vehicle (friction and heat), their design is far superior to that of drum brakes. Instead of housing the major components within a metal drum, disc brakes use a slim rotor and small caliper to halt wheel movement. Within the caliper are two brake pads, one on each side of the rotor, that clamp together when the brake pedal is pressed. Once again, fluid is used to transfer the movement of the brake pedal into the movement of the brake pads.

But unlike drum brakes, which allow heat to build up inside the drum during heavy braking, the rotor used in disc brakes is fully exposed to outside air. This exposure works to constantly cool the rotor, greatly reducing its tendency to overheat or cause fading. Not surprisingly, it was under racing circumstances that the weaknesses of drum brakes and the strengths of disc brakes were first illustrated. Racers with disc brake systems could carry their speed "deeper" into a corner and apply greater braking force at the last possible second without overheating the components. Eventually, as with so many other automotive advances, this technology filtered down to the cars driven by everyday people on public roads.

that is true when it comes to a vehicle with closer to a 50/50 front to rear weight ratio. our trucks are closer to a 70/30 front to rear ratio so the gains a rear disc system is minuscule when compared to a 50/50 ratio simply based on weight and physics. There simply isn't enough weight in the rear of these trucks to take full advantage of a disc system.

Don't get me wrong, a disc system on the rear with large open wheels do look 100 times better than a drum system, but if we are talking performance gains or reduced stopping distance, it just isn't there on "our" trucks.

Spend the money on improving the FRONT disc system, that's where the gains are.

[snipescastle2]

I bought a set of "CaptFab's" rear disc brake brackets for 1993-1997 Camaro/Firebird Calipers (E brake comes with them) had to use Impala SS
Rotors, works flawlessly! The only problem I encountered was that my engine doesn't make a lot of vacuum at lower speeds, asides from that, stops great!
Ben

[LongBox]

Have to chime in in support of G8-68's post. And, I would agree that with our trucks, the rear brakes do not do a very large proportion of the work of scrubbing off speed.

What I want to add is that brakes, a critical vehicle safety system, have been carefully engineered by the factory to work as well as the corporate budget would allow. The front-to-rear proportion of stopping effort is really important to get right, or you run the danger of premature lockup at one end or the other, and that means the other end is not working to full advantage. Worse, if the rears lock up too easily, there is a danger that the truck will swap ends if you stomp on the brakes hard.

If I wanted to upgrade the brakes on my 69, I'd go as far as changing to the 71 disk brake setup, making sure to match all the components (booster, MC, rear wheel brakes, etc) so that I got the benefit of the engineering that went into the 71/72 setup.

If, for some reason, I wanted to go to four-wheel disks, I'd see if it was possible to take the entire system from a 1999 to somewhere around 2004 GM pickup. Again, I'd want the booster, MC, front and rear brakes, e-brake components, proportioning valve, so that the system was engineered front to back.

I'd only do this if I had severe service for the vehicle in mind, such as downhill braking with heavy loads, or if I had a mad desire to write big checks.

My opinions only, and of course, others may vary.

[smashmix]

Thanks everyone for all the great input it definently gives me alot to think about and some very good options