12-05-2016, 08:54 AM | #1 |
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Sound Deadening
Will be Dynamatting floor, firewall, rear bulkhead, and roof. What is the preferred process for doors?
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12-05-2016, 12:39 PM | #2 |
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Re: Sound Deadening
I used CARINSULATION all over the cab, roof, floors, back of cab and doors. good stuff. carinsulation.com
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12-05-2016, 12:51 PM | #3 |
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Re: Sound Deadening
small pieces that fit thru the opening
100% coverage is not needed for dynamat i basically cut and stuck pieces until i was tired of skinning my knuckles dynamat on the floor is a good way to reduce floor/road/exhaust noise however... under my floor mat where my heal rests while on the gas pedal i have a divot in the carpet my heal has displaced all the sound deadening under the carpet not sure how you would prevent this i was thinking a 6x6 piece of 16ga sheet metal glued down over the sound deadening the divot is real noticeable with the floor mat out as i used 2 layers of mat and 1 layer of foam
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12-05-2016, 02:13 PM | #4 |
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Re: Sound Deadening
There are more flavors of sound deadening and heat insulating materials and combinations out there than there are custom valve covers for small block Chevy engines.
A guy might spend some time snooping around car audio boards to see what the word is on different ones.
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12-05-2016, 03:56 PM | #5 |
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Re: Sound Deadening
I suggest using a vinyl product with aluminum backing, the asphalt products sag in the heat of summer and smell like a pot of roofing tar..
I used GTmat 50mil Automotive Sound Deadener everywhere I could reach. |
12-05-2016, 04:13 PM | #6 |
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Re: Sound Deadening
Here's a link to some good information about sound deadener.
https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/ Small pieces is definitely the way to go in the doors, that's what I did. I will say making sure all of your seals are good and you have no leaks in the firewall is even more of an improvement. |
12-05-2016, 04:53 PM | #7 |
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Re: Sound Deadening
I may have went overboard but I covered every inch of my interior. I didn't waste money on Dynamat because I was told it was too expensive for what it is. There are many brands that are the same if not better for way less. I purchased a brand called Noico on Amazon. 108sq ft was less than $150.
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12-05-2016, 06:56 PM | #8 |
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Re: Sound Deadening
I'm using dynamat extreme. On the door I have started I cut a 18x32 sheet into many pieces and reached in and secured as best as I could on the outer skin andnsome on inner skin. Will mostlikely add a little more. Not sure it is needed
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12-05-2016, 07:49 PM | #9 |
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Re: Sound Deadening
The link that JWeb posted in post 6 is well worth studying even if you pick your own products to use. It shows that you may want different deadener material in spots in the cab to control various noises and gives a good idea of what works.
All I've had in the 48 in the past was some bubble foam with the foil back on it and that doesn't really get the job done for sound and heat in a car or truck. This time I'd like it to be a lot more comfortable both sound and temperature wise because my wife and I are long past the tough it out stage that we were in in out 20's when we did a lot of miles with not much more than a piece of used carpet on the floor of the truck.
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Founding member of the too many projects, too little time and money club. My ongoing truck projects: 48 Chev 3100 that will run a 292 Six. 71 GMC 2500 that is getting a Cad 500 transplant. 77 C 30 dualie, 454, 4 speed with a 10 foot flatbed and hoist. It does the heavy work and hauls the projects around. |
12-06-2016, 12:32 AM | #10 |
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Re: Sound Deadening
I used b quiet out of alberta and am happy with it
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12-06-2016, 02:50 AM | #11 |
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Re: Sound Deadening
I used rattletrap on floor and firewall but used this stuff in the doors
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Peel-Seal-I...ashing/1018733 Bought it at lowes and it comes 6" wide already, I just cut it for lenght and fit it through the panel in the door leaving the paper backing on most of it and peeled the paper off with one hand and pressed it on with the other.Works great and most of the reviews for this product is for guys doing cars sound deading |
12-06-2016, 06:54 AM | #12 |
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Re: Sound Deadening
Thank you all. Great to have a community of people to help out.
Ordered carinsulation, and am heading to lowes |
12-06-2016, 10:43 AM | #13 |
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Re: Sound Deadening
I was hoping someone would mention using the spray on stuff. I didn't plan on having carpet, and I want to use this stuff.
http://www.lizardskin.com/sound-control-insulation.html Anybody ever tried it? |
12-06-2016, 05:02 PM | #14 |
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Re: Sound Deadening
sounds travel best through air, transmission through solids is by resonance, meaning the sound waves on one side vibrate the solid and that vibration causes the sound you hear on the other. there is a frequency inherent with solids and based on mass that, with the smallest input, has the largest output, and this is called the resonant frequency. it is the most sympathetic frequency to vibration.
with mat (rubber or asphalt) its about adding mass to lower the resonant frequency. lower frequencies take a lot more power to resonate, anyone who has ever bought a subwoofer amplifier will tell you the same thing, the sub amps need to be much larger than midrange and high frequency amplifiers, so by lowering the resonant frequency it takes more power (noise on the outside) to be loud (noise on the inside). Also, lower frequencies arent as intrusive as higher frequencies. so adding any at all to a large flat panel will damp the resonance. you dont need to coat the entire panel, you arent sealing anything. and for the same reason, you dont need multiple layers, because its a diminishing return. if you lower the resonant frequency with the first application it will be your largest gain, extra layers will just spend money for much smaller results. So to recap, if you have large flat panels, add some mass. Some noise will be inherent from having an all metal cab, it would be good to cover the steel with some cloth, but damping mat will help a LOT. I just finished up my truck and I dont have a single piece of sound deadening material in it, aside from the heavy jute mat under the carpet. at 70 mph it is quiet enough inside to have a normal conversation and wind noise is not intrusive. This I feel is due to all the new glass seals and felts and door seals and windlace on the doors, and plugging every open hole on the firewall. You can hear the drivers door handle rattle, and its not a big rattle.
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12-06-2016, 05:46 PM | #15 |
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Re: Sound Deadening
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12-06-2016, 09:08 PM | #16 | |
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Re: Sound Deadening
Quote:
I think Lower 50's did as well on his truck build. He demonstrated heat reduction and posted a video on his build. |
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12-06-2016, 11:07 PM | #17 |
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Re: Sound Deadening
Doug, how do you think it worked? I'm more concerned with noise than heat.
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12-06-2016, 11:40 PM | #18 |
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Re: Sound Deadening
My Burb is still under construction so it hasn't been out on the road. Even so, the floors have a solid thunk sound now when struck instead of a tinny sound. It helped for sure on my 48 truck.
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12-07-2016, 10:18 AM | #19 |
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Re: Sound Deadening
How are you planning on covering it? I'm looking at the spec sheet, and website, and I can't seem to find anything about covering it. Do you think it would take paint, or even a bed-liner material over the top of it?
I'm not sure what I want to do to the floor of my truck. It's not nice enough for carpet. I was thinking about Bedliner. Maybe I don't need the Lizard Skin if I do Bedliner on the floor, and undercoating underneath. |
12-07-2016, 04:22 PM | #20 |
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Re: Sound Deadening
I use peel–n–seal from Lowe's for all my projects, then just put some cut pyle carpeting in them and call it a day.
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12-07-2016, 07:01 PM | #21 | |
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Re: Sound Deadening
Quote:
My plans are carpet inside and leave the Lizard Skin exposed on the outside. |
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