Roof replacement?

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by 68blackbird

Ok, saw the pics in the link you sent, very good info!! Thx!!

Cut the bulk away to get at it from inside the cab. then trim it bac to where you can use a get the spot weld cutter at a 90 degree angle without interference. Take your time on the spot welds making sure you only cut through the top layer. patching hole in the lip is a big PIA.

A Steck seam buster tool is a big help on this job.. tool number 20015. you cut about 90 % of the way through and then use the tool to strip off the remaining metal

http://www.steckmfg.com/20015_SeamBuster.html

[68blackbird]

Originally Posted by dwcsr

Cut the bulk away to get at it from inside the cab. then trim it bac to where you can use a get the spot weld cutter at a 90 degree angle without interference. Take your time on the spot welds making sure you only cut through the top layer. patching hole in the lip is a big PIA.

A Steck seam buster tool is a big help on this job.. tool number 20015. you cut about 90 % of the way through and then use the tool to strip off the remaining metal

http://www.steckmfg.com/20015_SeamBuster.html

Don't know if I did it right or not, but it's off. Ended using both plasma & cutoff wheel. That Steck tool looks very helpful, especially on the front part of the truck. The reason I thought of the Blair kit was because the welds are so small and close together, the 3/8" HF bit seemed to big, where the Blair kit at least goes down to 5/16.....am I thinking too much?

[dwcsr]

You can use the Bliar but just know it may eat up the cutters fairly quick on the rust. try to trim back to the arrows and its much easier to remove the strip that's left. You can also use a small chisel to bust the seam after you do the welds. Just lay the plasma gun on the drip edge pointing toward the roof panel that's left and drag it around the top

fyi you should use some cutting oil on the Blair tool or the grease stick they have

[hogfarm]

Nice time to get rid of drip rails

[68blackbird]

Originally Posted by hogfarm

Nice time to get rid of drip rails

That has been discussed. I read some of the threads on this, not sure I'm ready for that skill level. Having to roll metal and do lead work(for the back part of the rail from what I read) seems a bit daunting....not saying no, yet.

[68blackbird]

Originally Posted by dwcsr

You can use the Bliar but just know it may eat up the cutters fairly quick on the rust. try to trim back to the arrows and its much easier to remove the strip that's left. You can also use a small chisel to bust the seam after you do the welds. Just lay the plasma gun on the drip edge pointing toward the roof panel that's left and drag it around the top

fyi you should use some cutting oil on the Blair tool or the grease stick they have

Thank you so much for your helpful input. I may have to look you up next time we are in H-town. We are in Corpus, but have many friends in your neck of the woods, Kel

[OrrieG]

Make sure you keep removing material until you get to good metal, like it or not you will probably be doing work on the drip rails and maybe inner panel too. I would take the time to address the concealed side of the inner panel with a rust converter, any left will just continue to work away.

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

Make sure you keep removing material until you get to good metal, like it or not you will probably be doing work on the drip rails and maybe inner panel too. I would take the time to address the concealed side of the inner panel with a rust converter, any left will just continue to work away.

good point , I forgot we used a rust converter down the pillars and areas we couldn't blast or sand.. Ospho or Jasco from Lowes in a one gallon plastic sprayer with a 18' wand slides down those areas well.

[68blackbird]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

Make sure you keep removing material until you get to good metal, like it or not you will probably be doing work on the drip rails and maybe inner panel too. I would take the time to address the concealed side of the inner panel with a rust converter, any left will just continue to work away.

Roger that on addressing the inner rust areas, all in all that part does not look too bad. Here are pics with drip removed. The spot weld bit did great where I could see them. There were several areas where I used cut off wheel and very slowly removed metal. I'm hoping I did not fork up here...the area above the windshield, I know I committed one of the body work sins, do not remove anything until you have replacement piece in hand. I have not ordered the roof panel yet, did I cut too much away from the front and just create a bunch more work for myself...

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by 68blackbird

Roger that on addressing the inner rust areas, all in all that part does not look too bad. Here are pics with drip removed. The spot weld bit did great where I could see them. There were several areas where I used cut off wheel and very slowly removed metal. I'm hoping I did not fork up here...the area above the windshield, I know I committed one of the body work sins, do not remove anything until you have replacement piece in hand. I have not ordered the roof panel yet, did I cut too much away from the front and just create a bunch more work for myself...

That all looks good so far. just treat the rust with a converter and order the roof skin. The lip on the front will have to come off leaving just the inner panel lip. The Dynacorn panels we use a sell fit very well so I wouldn't worry about letting it sit till you get it.