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#1 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Lake Placid, FL.
Posts: 67
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Door Latches and Handles
Hi from Fl.
I'm new to this 88-98 section as I just got a 95 GMC ext. cab..350, auto I sold my 67 C-10 and went a little newer.. It's got lots of miles (220,000) but runs and drives excellent...One of my issues is the doors will only open from outside handle...I've got the door panel off and it appears that the handle and latch are just worn out, and the rod between them also...So I have new latches and handles and the connecting rods ordered...Anyone have any tips to put them in ?? Do I have to take off the inner? panel..Any pics or help will be great....It has power everything... And also...I'm gonna replace the heater control module (with the three dials) Any helpful info on that project ???? Thanks,,,Dave |
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#2 |
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State of Confusion!
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Gulfport, MS USA
Posts: 48,486
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Re: Door Latches and Handles
I have never had to replace the inner dor handles on any of mine, just the outside handle. It is tight inside the doors, so go slow and look things over. It is not difficult to work in there, just slow because of all the crud in there.
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Bill 1970 Chevy Custom/10 LWB Fleetside 2010 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner SR5 Double Cab - DD Member of Louisiana Classic Truck Club (LCTC) Bill's Gallery Life isn't tied with a bow, but it's still a gift. Live simply. Love generously. Care deeply. Speak kindly. Leave the rest to God! |
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#3 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: .
Posts: 2,187
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Re: Door Latches and Handles
Its very common for the cheaply cast metal to stretch and break on the inside door handles.
Unless the rod is broken, there is no need to replace it. You can bend it to adjust the length. The only time I have had to replace the latch is when the door sags and it hits the striker at an angle. I'd start with the handles and see what happens. |
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#4 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Lake Placid, FL.
Posts: 67
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Re: Door Latches and Handles
I was going to just bend the rod but latch and handle look soooooo worn that I decided to replace all of it.....Then hopfully it will last a long long time......Dave
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#5 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Tulsa
Posts: 418
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Re: Door Latches and Handles
Quote:
autozone and the likes has the kit to replace 8.99 each i fixed my issue with it , no more noise in cab going over bumps.
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#6 |
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driving is in my blood
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Mesa AZ
Posts: 5,763
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Re: Door Latches and Handles
Door handles are a pain in the butt, I've done inside and outside and don't enjoy it. No real tips besides take your time and do one side at a time so the other can show you whatever you forget half way threw lol.
As for the HVAC control panel, MAKE SURE NOTHING TOUCHES IT!!!! When my stereo was stolen they let the antenna lead drop hit the board, and just like that it was dead and needed to be replaced.
__________________
-78 c10 short/step: 388cid, M20, 5/5 drop, lots more. Playtoy and first vehicle. -98 c1500 x-cab: 5.7L, 17" rims, 5/6 drop, flowmaster, helper bags,NBS rear disk brakes. -02 Suburban 4x4: leveled front -CBR600F4i, CBR600RR, CBR1000RR, and standup skis DISCLAIMER: I cant spell for the life of me. |
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#7 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Big Pine Key, FL
Posts: 758
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Re: Door Latches and Handles
I don't think the door handles are that bad. Once you figure everything out, it's pretty easy. I just had mine apart the other day to replace the lock cylinders and associated arms.
Get some extra trim panel clips. You'll need them. Take the door trim panel off. Be sure to remove the lock/window switch assemblies before you take the panel off, it's way easier to remove the connectors that way. Pry out the reflector/light assembly too. Once you remove the panel, the rivet holding the inner handle needs to be drilled out. If there is a screw there, someone has already replaced it. Slide the handle towards the back of door, and it should pop out a little. Using a flathead screwdriver, gently pry the rod out of holder on top, tilt the assembly, do the same for the rod on the bottom. The handle will be free then. The outer door handle is a little more tricky, but is manageable. Make sure the window is up. Very important! Remove the bolt from the door jamb area. 10mm for that one and the one inside. The inside one you will need a swivel extension to get out. There is a hole in the inner door panel that you can access it through. Use a short socket, then swivel, then extension bar. Once you get the socket on the bolt, attach your ratchet and remove. It will probably fall inside the door, not a big deal. You should be able to reach in and get it, or use a magnetic pickup to get it.Once both bolts are out, from the outside, pull the handle out slightly. Using a flathead screwdriver, remove the lock cylinder. Then push down gently on the handle assembly and it should pop out. You can now access the lock and handle rods. To reinstall, insert the handle back into the opening about halfway. Get the lock cylinder placed in position to install, but don't push it all the way in. I insert the key into the lock cylinder at this point. Push down on the assembly and push it through gently so as not to disturb the lock cylinder. Once it's in, turn the key and pull the lock cylinder into place. It will click in. Install the bolt through the door jamb first, tighten, then loosen a tiny bit. From the inside, install the bolt with the socket, swivel extension, and extension bar by hand. I use a piece of tape on the socket and washer of the bolt keep it from falling off. This step requires TONS of patience. I also use 1/4 drivers for a little more maneuverability. Snug it down with a ratchet, then remember to tight the other bolt in the jamb. The inside door handle is pretty easy. drop the lower arm into the hole, attach the rod. Angle the handle so you can attach the other rod, then insert it into the opening and slide it into place. Reinstall the screw, or install if you had to drill the rivet out. Test everything, then reinstall the door trim panel with the cables hanging out for the light and switches. Reinstall the light and switch assemblies, and you're done.
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Mike |
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#8 |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Centerville,Ma.
Posts: 1,224
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Re: Door Latches and Handles
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#9 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 702
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Re: Door Latches and Handles
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#10 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 1,332
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Re: Door Latches and Handles
I've done the inner handle on my drivers door 3 times already. They stock them now in the Help section at AutoZone. Pretty easy to put in.
Paul
__________________
"You know that little thing in your head that keeps you from saying things you shouldn't? Yeah well, I don't have one of those" 1969 Mercury Cougar Standard 4 speed 1969 Mercury Cougar XR7 convertible 1970 4WD Chevrolet Suburban 1997 4WD Chevrolet Silverado Extended Cab Short Bed (purchased new January 1997) |
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#11 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Mesa Az
Posts: 46
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Re: Door Latches and Handles
There are a couple of good videos on YouTube that I used to look at to do my driver side door handle. Start with 1aauto video.
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#12 |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Centerville,Ma.
Posts: 1,224
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Re: Door Latches and Handles
Sorry for the long wait to reply my notifications have been routed to my spam folder somehow. The handle in post #9 is from a 3500 HD also used on the kodiac series of trucks. The lock from your original handle will work but I had to cut the arm off the lock and weld it on facing the other way. You can most likely just switch the locks left to right but I did the doors a few weeks apart so did what had to be done. I love the way they work ,just pull no lifting.
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#13 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Mesa Az
Posts: 46
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Re: Door Latches and Handles
Where did you get that door handle? Thats really bad ass!
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#14 |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Centerville,Ma.
Posts: 1,224
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Re: Door Latches and Handles
Mine came from a 1999 3500HD my brother had in his back yard. It has a reefer box and he just uses the truck for bait storage for his lobster business. Truck hasn't run for years. They also came on the Kodiac & Topkick series of trucks. The bigger trucks used them as they are higher and it is hard to use the lift handles when the door is so high.
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#15 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Kent Bridge, Ontario
Posts: 5
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Re: Door Latches and Handles
Dave, I just got done replacing the left latch and inner handle on my 98 Chev. The old handles were cast zinc? or some other cheap metal. I have never seen such a cheap POS. The metal handle did not have a complete piece of housing around the pivet point and it partially broke, not allowing the rod to completely unlatch the latch. Got another aftermarket by Dorman that was a bigger POS. Needless to say it got broken putting it in. Lucky for me I was able to take the plastic handle and put it in the old handle assembly. I sure would like to get a hold of those whiz-bangs that call themselves engineers. They might find themselves singing in soprano tones. I cannot believe that they call these new ideas state of the art. They do stock lots of new parts as these things break with regularity. Cheers, Old Iron nut.
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