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12-09-2016, 09:44 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: new orleans
Posts: 302
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manual ball valve air ride pressure questions
1/2" hard copper line in the cab
(8)1/2" high pressure ball valves (1 in 1 out each bag) 1/2" Air brake lines to the bags and from the tank SS bags are rated a 250psi i cant find a comparison of height to psi but im guessing middle of the road like 100+psi for the front (66 c10 250) at first i was thinking 7s all around and then bought a pair of 7s(front original) and a pair of 8s(rear original) but now that i think about it because of the difference of heights of the bags and the weight of the front, my thought now is 8 in the front any ways bags are 250, most tanks i see are 200, ball valves way over 200... so im needing (4) 250-300 psi gauge (1) check valve from compressor to tan? (1) pressure switch for the tank to the compressor(165-200?)(going with york on-board)(pressure switch and gauge for tank prob going to be In the cab at beginning of hard lining) (1) relief valve per tank(200? 225? 250?) (4) relief(pop) valve for each bag line (200? 225? 250?) (8) push connectors @ hard line to bags and @ bags (2) " " " " @ hard line to tank and @ tank whats Really the working pressure of the system? why is bag 250psi if most tanks and systems are 150-200? can someone think of what else i might need |
12-10-2016, 05:14 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: San Jose Ca
Posts: 2,871
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Re: manual ball valve air ride pressure questions
You will never need that much pressure in a bag. AZProperformance has kits with everything you need. Probably cheaper than piecing it together too.
Is that copper line rated for the use? I believe copper will work harden and break.
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12-18-2016, 09:27 AM | #3 |
Squarebody guy
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 335
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Re: manual ball valve air ride pressure questions
Running 200 psi in your tank will allow you to lift the system a few more times before the compressor kicks in but having a york makes it unnecessary.
I would recommend the largest bag that fits nicely. The larger the bag, the lower the pressure for a given height. The lower the pressure the softer the ride which is nice in a truck. If you are going to run 200 psi in the tank then run a 225 relief valve, as long as the rest of the components are good to 225. You don't need more than one relief valve, your tank will always have the highest pressure so that's is where the relief valve goes.
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12-18-2016, 06:47 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: new orleans
Posts: 302
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Re: manual ball valve air ride pressure questions
So me need for a pop off on each bag line?
Paddle valves are barbs (going to use barbs for gauges but only rated for 150? usually Wondering what y'all use for gauge connections? Deciding on either 5 200-220 gauges or a pair of disk needless and one for the tank side.. The dual needle 220s I see are 1/8 male |
12-19-2016, 01:55 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Kitchener, Ontario, Canada
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Re: manual ball valve air ride pressure questions
I run a 200psi system, compressors turn on at 165psi. I have 2- 4 gal tanks that are rated for 200psi and I have a 225psi blow off valve. I use nylon hose, push lock fittings. I have a 1000lb diesel motor on an s10 frame with 6" bags up front and 7" bags over axle in rear. Truck weighs 5000lb. At ride height I am at 110psi in the front and 35psi in rear. I have 2 dual needle 150psi gauges. Truck rides very smooth. Hope that helps.
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