Steering column bearing

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by mdpaulson1

I used my stock column with my Mustang ll, I cut the column to my desired lenght and used this kind of bering kit. I left the shaft longer and ground it to except DD ujoints and it worked out nicely

So whats the silver at the end of the column - is that the outer bearing sleeve. ?
Meaning .....

1) Cut the box off.
2) Cut column and shaft back to where you want for overall length.
3) Cut the column only back the width of bearing.
4) Press bearing onto shaft
5) File shaft for ujoint to attach.

IF so seams the easiest I have seen. What secures the bearing to column and shaft - tack weld ?

[OrrieG]

here are CCP's instructions, no welding just drilling and set screws.

http://www.classicperform.com/Instru.../PDF/CPBCS.pdf

[mdpaulson1]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

here are CCP's instructions, no welding just drilling and set screws.

http://www.classicperform.com/Instru.../PDF/CPBCS.pdf

That is the exact one I used, really easy

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

here are CCP's instructions, no welding just drilling and set screws.

Thanks - makes sense except why do you need to pull the whole shaftassembly. Why not just press on from the 2" exposed on the engine side.

I kind of like 58warrior idea with the bearings. Cheap and seems similar in design. Just longetivity and safety. Keeping bearing in position over time a bit unclear.

[mdpaulson1]

Originally Posted by FAKKY

Thanks - makes sense except why do you need to pull the whole shaftassembly. Why not just press on from the 2" exposed on the engine side.

I kind of like 58warrior idea with the bearings. Cheap and seems similar in design. Just longetivity and safety. Keeping bearing in position over time a bit unclear.

one of the #4 pieces in the diagrams that OrrieG gave you the link to, has a set screw that can only be tightened by removing the shaft, really makes sense when doing it.I think I took it apart twice to get it in the right place for turn signals and steering wheel to work just right. I would have done what 58warrior did if I felt comfortable ordering the right parts, or know where to get them. In the long run it would have been cheaper. I am happy with what my final solution was

[FAKKY]

Thanks.

Found G12 tapered bearing works.
As well as rf1222-14pp

G12 looks like a precision sealed bearing with right ID/OD.

Locking in place ...... Not 100% sure yet obviously partly going to stay in place with shaft ...
Maybe a locking collar somehow pinned with set screw as mentioned above.

[1958Warrior]

FAKKY I think you'll find that those bearings are way too small on the OD, as the id of the column is just under 1-5/8"
I went by what thebebop had posted here:

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...+today&page=21
Page 21-22 post# 519,522,540,542,545

he used a die grinder and a sanding drum or rotary file to ream out the column , then hammered/pressed it in . I chose to spread the column out to accept the bearing and tac it back to the washer so the bearing is secure , if I ever have to change it I will have to grind the edge of the washer to get it back out , but should be able to take it out easily without having to do anything to the column as it is belled for the bearing and just have to replace the washer.

[mdpaulson1]

[QUOTE=FAKKY;7811790]Thanks.

Found G12 tapered bearing works.
As well as rf1222-14pp

G12 looks like a precision sealed bearing with right ID/OD.

Locking in place ...... Not 100% sure yet obviously partly going to stay in place with shaft ...
Maybe a locking collar somehow pinned with set screw as mentioned above.[/QUOTE

The #4 items in the diagram keep the shaft from moving up and down in the column without tack welding the bearings, simple and easy

[FAKKY]

R12ZZ bearing (3/4"x1-5/8"x 7/16")
https://www.amazon.com/R12ZZ-Bearing.../dp/B002BBGD2U

RF122214PP
https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/4195265
Bore Size:3/4"
Outer Diameter:1-3/8"

G12
http://www.affiliatedcaster.com/inde...odshow&ref=G12
1-3/8" Precision Sealed Flanged Bearing
3/4" Inside Diameter

Another ???
http://www.vxb.com/F2452-Flanged-3-4...qY8xoCPhLw_wcB


All look pretty close 1958Warriro - are you referring to the 1 5/8 of the column.
Wondering if thats why others found 1 1/38 is ok fit.

Kind of like the idea of the last one with the flange if you are able to tack weld it on the column at the flange lip.

[1958Warrior]

I haven't seen anyone post that 1-3/8 was a good fit.

I like the flanged bearing, would like it more if it was sealed metal shielded , but still would work well if you lubed it prior to install.
Like I mentioned above" thebebop" was able to make the 1-5/8" bearing fit by using a die grinder with a sanding drum or rotary file/stone to remove some of the metal to "ream out" the column and pound a bearing in.
If you do install this way he stated that you need to remove the upper bearing first as he damaged his somehow while installing the lower bearing.

I just chose to do it my way as the column is pretty thin to start with.

A small quick tac would be good insurance, I would advise to place a cold wet rag over the bearing to only expose the tac area as to not melt the plastic shield.

[OrrieG]

I was curious about the diameter and found this thread with a lot of great ideas on how to do it and where to get the bearings.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/t...earing.447979/

[FAKKY]

Good stuff guys.
Hate over thinking things ..... But hate to get it wrong especially on safety stuff.

[Trekster]

Thanks for the great ideas and links.

[Jemezcrusher]

Found a muffler shop that had a 1.5" mandrel. He expanded the tube just enough so that the bearing will slip in. Is snug enough that it will not move and will have to "pull" it out but is not so tight that it will damage the bearing during removal

Guy did it for free, but I paid him 10 bucks anyway. SO the mod will cost a total of 17.00 plus my labor (cheap) grinding the double D on the shaft

[OrrieG]

Good job, guess we know who is going to be doing your muffler work!