tie rod ends - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Aussie · 03-24-2001, 09:22 PM

G'day all
I have a 72 K20 (leaf spring front end), when I bought 2 yrs ago the upper and lower ball joints and inner and outer tie rod ends were shot. The tie rod ends were actually worn where they screw into the tie rod.
I replaced all these 12 mths ago and got new tyres shortly afterwards
I went out to rotate the tyres this morning and I noticed that the drivers side tie rod end is worn again where it threads into the steering rod. From what I can gather this means that the female thread in the tie rod must be worn.
Does this sound right?
What could have caused this?
Can I take this to a fabrication shop and have a new end machined on ?
I live in Australia so the freight on tie rod ends is bad enough without trying to send a 5 or 6 foot tie rod as well if I need a whole new rod.
Any and all comments appreciated.
Aussie.

[This message has been edited by Aussie (edited 03-28-2001).]

Aussie · 03-24-2001, 11:26 PM

I also have 33x12.5x16.5 tyres and I noticed that the outside of the tyre is worn more than the inside.
I had a wheel alignment done when the tyres were installed.
What is my problem?
Aussie

**Tim Christian** · 03-25-2001, 06:16 AM

Hey Aussie, I am not a 4-wheel drive guy but I wanted to Welcome you to the board. I am sure some of the guys can help you with your question. Come on guys lets help the new guy out.

------------------
67 GMC Stepside(UNDER CONSTRUCTION)
67 GMC Custom
67 Chevy C-30

Aussie · 03-25-2001, 10:56 PM

Thanks for the welcome Tim.
Does anyone out there have any idea's?

CoryM · 03-26-2001, 12:44 AM

Hi Aussie, Not sure if I read your post right..... The threads on the tie-rod ends have stripped off and the ends have pulled out of the tie-rod? (tie rod is the bar with the female threads and the tie-rod ends are the ball joints that screw into the tie rod) If that is the case the female threads on the tie rod are probably destroyed as well. In older cars sometimes the threads will rust off and strip. Does your truck have a lift-kit? Sometimes if it isnt lifted right you will put extra strain on the steering components. Let us know. CoryM

------------------
1970 heavy duty C-10 fleetside sport truck. Vancouver B.C. Canada http://www.geocities.com/chevroletc1070/

[This message has been edited by CoryM (edited 03-25-2001).]

Aussie · 03-26-2001, 10:08 AM

G'day Cory
No nothing has stripped.
With everything tightened up I can take hold of the tie rod and when I shake it I can see and feel movement where the tie rod end screws into the tie rod.
Since the tie rod ends are only 1 yr old I am assuming that the wear must be in the female threads of the tie rod.
What would have caused this? Just old age?
I have had the springs reset to around stock height, maybe 1" higher. The 33" tyres just clear.
I would also like to know why my tyres are wearing on the outside.
Can anyone tell me what the front end should be set for in caster, camber, toe in and anything else that effects steering and tyre wear?

[This message has been edited by Aussie (edited 03-26-2001).]

Aussie · 03-28-2001, 09:51 AM

Anyone?

Gordo · 03-28-2001, 10:24 AM

Just a lttle food for thought, It sounds like the female ends of your tie rod are in trouble. The Chevrolet truck service manual shows a correct way and a incorrect way for the tie rod adjustment clamps to be positioned when tightened. Don't know what your tie rod tube ends look like now, if it is safe to use or not, but if the clamps are not positioned correctly, they will not pinch the ends properly leaving the tie rod end able to wiggle loose after some use. The tie rod tube slot has to be either completely enclosed within clamp or completely exposed within clamp when tightened. It's a lttle hard to explain but did you follow me?

------------------
1971 C10 swb stepside 350/700R4/3.73posi

Gordo · 03-28-2001, 06:10 PM

TOP

Aussie · 03-28-2001, 07:43 PM

Yea I think I do.
You mean that the open side of the clamp must line up with and expose the slot in the tie rod tube. I don't understand about the clamp completly enclosing the slot but, I think my slot is longer than the clamp.
Do You have any specs on the front end allignment?
Thanks Gordo

Gordo · 03-28-2001, 09:29 PM

Yes, if you be sure to have slot line up with clamp opening you will be OK. Or you can rotate clamp so that the gap in slot is completely under clamp, either way will work as long as the gap is not half way under clamp. Clear as mud, eh? As far as specs go this is what I have,
Camber: Designed to be + 1-1/2 degrees at curb weight with no provision for resetting.
Caster: Designed to be + 4 degress at curb weight with no provision for resetting.
Toe-in (total) for resetting 1/8" to 1/4".
for checking 1/16" to 5/16".

I hope I was of some help. Good luck!

------------------
1971 C10 swb stepside 350/700R4/3.73posi

Gordo · 03-29-2001, 07:10 PM

Top please

Gordo · 03-30-2001, 08:42 AM

Aussie?

03-24-2001, 09:22 PM	#1
Aussie Registered User Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Australia Posts: 68	tie rod ends G'day all I have a 72 K20 (leaf spring front end), when I bought 2 yrs ago the upper and lower ball joints and inner and outer tie rod ends were shot. The tie rod ends were actually worn where they screw into the tie rod. I replaced all these 12 mths ago and got new tyres shortly afterwards I went out to rotate the tyres this morning and I noticed that the drivers side tie rod end is worn again where it threads into the steering rod. From what I can gather this means that the female thread in the tie rod must be worn. Does this sound right? What could have caused this? Can I take this to a fabrication shop and have a new end machined on ? I live in Australia so the freight on tie rod ends is bad enough without trying to send a 5 or 6 foot tie rod as well if I need a whole new rod. Any and all comments appreciated. Aussie. [This message has been edited by Aussie (edited 03-28-2001).] __________________ 72 K20 6.5TD + NV4500

03-24-2001, 11:26 PM	#2
Aussie Registered User Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Australia Posts: 68	I also have 33x12.5x16.5 tyres and I noticed that the outside of the tyre is worn more than the inside. I had a wheel alignment done when the tyres were installed. What is my problem? Aussie __________________ 72 K20 6.5TD + NV4500

03-25-2001, 10:56 PM	#4
Aussie Registered User Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Australia Posts: 68	Thanks for the welcome Tim. Does anyone out there have any idea's? __________________ 72 K20 6.5TD + NV4500

03-26-2001, 12:44 AM	#5
CoryM Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Surrey, B.C. , Canada Posts: 874	Hi Aussie, Not sure if I read your post right..... The threads on the tie-rod ends have stripped off and the ends have pulled out of the tie-rod? (tie rod is the bar with the female threads and the tie-rod ends are the ball joints that screw into the tie rod) If that is the case the female threads on the tie rod are probably destroyed as well. In older cars sometimes the threads will rust off and strip. Does your truck have a lift-kit? Sometimes if it isnt lifted right you will put extra strain on the steering components. Let us know. CoryM ------------------ 1970 heavy duty C-10 fleetside sport truck. Vancouver B.C. Canada http://www.geocities.com/chevroletc1070/ [This message has been edited by CoryM (edited 03-25-2001).] __________________ 1970 heavy duty C-10 fleetside sport truck. Vancouver B.C. Canada http://www.geocities.com/chevroletc1070 "Take up our quarrel with the foe: To you from failing hands we throw The torch; be yours to hold it high." Lieutenant Colonel John McCrae, Canadian Army

03-26-2001, 10:08 AM	#6
Aussie Registered User Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Australia Posts: 68	G'day Cory No nothing has stripped. With everything tightened up I can take hold of the tie rod and when I shake it I can see and feel movement where the tie rod end screws into the tie rod. Since the tie rod ends are only 1 yr old I am assuming that the wear must be in the female threads of the tie rod. What would have caused this? Just old age? I have had the springs reset to around stock height, maybe 1" higher. The 33" tyres just clear. I would also like to know why my tyres are wearing on the outside. Can anyone tell me what the front end should be set for in caster, camber, toe in and anything else that effects steering and tyre wear? [This message has been edited by Aussie (edited 03-26-2001).] __________________ 72 K20 6.5TD + NV4500

03-25-2001, 06:16 AM	#3
Tim Christian Senior Member Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: TN/VA Posts: 6,388	Hey Aussie, I am not a 4-wheel drive guy but I wanted to Welcome you to the board. I am sure some of the guys can help you with your question. Come on guys lets help the new guy out. ------------------ 67 GMC Stepside(UNDER CONSTRUCTION) 67 GMC Custom 67 Chevy C-30

03-28-2001, 09:51 AM	#7
Aussie Registered User Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Australia Posts: 68	Anyone? __________________ 72 K20 6.5TD + NV4500

03-28-2001, 10:24 AM	#8
Gordo Registered User Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Killingworth, CT. USA Posts: 3,378	Just a lttle food for thought, It sounds like the female ends of your tie rod are in trouble. The Chevrolet truck service manual shows a correct way and a incorrect way for the tie rod adjustment clamps to be positioned when tightened. Don't know what your tie rod tube ends look like now, if it is safe to use or not, but if the clamps are not positioned correctly, they will not pinch the ends properly leaving the tie rod end able to wiggle loose after some use. The tie rod tube slot has to be either completely enclosed within clamp or completely exposed within clamp when tightened. It's a lttle hard to explain but did you follow me? ------------------ 1971 C10 swb stepside 350/700R4/3.73posi __________________ 1971 C10 swb stepside 350/700R4/3.73posi (retired as of 4/22/03) 1998 S10 short bed 2002 S10 Blazer 1942 Oldsmobile 1958 Massey Harris Pony 1951 Wife Killingworth, Connecticut May those who love us, love us, any of those who do not love us, may God turn their hearts. And if God is unable to turn their hearts, may he turn their ankles so we may know them by their limping. A man who works with his hands is a laborer; a man who works with his hands and his brain is a craftsman; but a man who works with his hands and his brain and his heart is an artist.

03-28-2001, 06:10 PM	#9
Gordo Registered User Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Killingworth, CT. USA Posts: 3,378	TOP __________________ 1971 C10 swb stepside 350/700R4/3.73posi (retired as of 4/22/03) 1998 S10 short bed 2002 S10 Blazer 1942 Oldsmobile 1958 Massey Harris Pony 1951 Wife Killingworth, Connecticut May those who love us, love us, any of those who do not love us, may God turn their hearts. And if God is unable to turn their hearts, may he turn their ankles so we may know them by their limping. A man who works with his hands is a laborer; a man who works with his hands and his brain is a craftsman; but a man who works with his hands and his brain and his heart is an artist.

03-28-2001, 07:43 PM	#10
Aussie Registered User Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Australia Posts: 68	Yea I think I do. You mean that the open side of the clamp must line up with and expose the slot in the tie rod tube. I don't understand about the clamp completly enclosing the slot but, I think my slot is longer than the clamp. Do You have any specs on the front end allignment? Thanks Gordo __________________ 72 K20 6.5TD + NV4500

03-28-2001, 09:29 PM	#11
Gordo Registered User Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Killingworth, CT. USA Posts: 3,378	Yes, if you be sure to have slot line up with clamp opening you will be OK. Or you can rotate clamp so that the gap in slot is completely under clamp, either way will work as long as the gap is not half way under clamp. Clear as mud, eh? As far as specs go this is what I have, Camber: Designed to be + 1-1/2 degrees at curb weight with no provision for resetting. Caster: Designed to be + 4 degress at curb weight with no provision for resetting. Toe-in (total) for resetting 1/8" to 1/4". for checking 1/16" to 5/16". I hope I was of some help. Good luck! ------------------ 1971 C10 swb stepside 350/700R4/3.73posi __________________ 1971 C10 swb stepside 350/700R4/3.73posi (retired as of 4/22/03) 1998 S10 short bed 2002 S10 Blazer 1942 Oldsmobile 1958 Massey Harris Pony 1951 Wife Killingworth, Connecticut May those who love us, love us, any of those who do not love us, may God turn their hearts. And if God is unable to turn their hearts, may he turn their ankles so we may know them by their limping. A man who works with his hands is a laborer; a man who works with his hands and his brain is a craftsman; but a man who works with his hands and his brain and his heart is an artist.

03-29-2001, 07:10 PM	#12
Gordo Registered User Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Killingworth, CT. USA Posts: 3,378	Top please __________________ 1971 C10 swb stepside 350/700R4/3.73posi (retired as of 4/22/03) 1998 S10 short bed 2002 S10 Blazer 1942 Oldsmobile 1958 Massey Harris Pony 1951 Wife Killingworth, Connecticut May those who love us, love us, any of those who do not love us, may God turn their hearts. And if God is unable to turn their hearts, may he turn their ankles so we may know them by their limping. A man who works with his hands is a laborer; a man who works with his hands and his brain is a craftsman; but a man who works with his hands and his brain and his heart is an artist.

03-30-2001, 08:42 AM	#13
Gordo Registered User Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Killingworth, CT. USA Posts: 3,378	Aussie? __________________ 1971 C10 swb stepside 350/700R4/3.73posi (retired as of 4/22/03) 1998 S10 short bed 2002 S10 Blazer 1942 Oldsmobile 1958 Massey Harris Pony 1951 Wife Killingworth, Connecticut May those who love us, love us, any of those who do not love us, may God turn their hearts. And if God is unable to turn their hearts, may he turn their ankles so we may know them by their limping. A man who works with his hands is a laborer; a man who works with his hands and his brain is a craftsman; but a man who works with his hands and his brain and his heart is an artist.



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