1968 chevy 4x4 4BT 5speed swap

[bowmans_army]

so ive hat this tuck for about 8 months and bought it when i wanted a new daily driver and instead of buying a new diesel i decided to buy an old chevy and swap a diesel into it and i just happened to have a brand new in crate 4cylinder cummins in my garage so I'm using it. After swapping out the 12 bolt for a semi float 14 bolt and installing AC and repainting it i drove it 60 miles every day for 7 months it was fun but 8mpg is not so time to swap it out finally. I'm not new to the old truck arena or the diesel world but this truck is just being built to be a daily driver nothing crazy or extreme like all my other trucks and its also needs to be done, unlike my 6 year 55 chevy project that was going to be a 4x4 cummins, then was a 2wd, low rider on bags, then back to a half ton 4x4, now is waiting for me to finish the swap to get another lease on life as a 1 ton 4x4 cummins. Enough for the back story on with the pics

Specs first

model: long box 4x4 k10
Paint: white with white and black interior
Motor: 4bt cummins 351 VGT turbo marine injectors and intercooler
Trans: 1994 chevy NV4500
Tcase: 1ton slip yoke NP208
axles: front 10bolt 4:10s rear 14bolt semi float 4:10
tires : 33 goodyears
lift: 4 inch lift from the 70s that rides like a brick will change that next

the day i got it had a dented grill and the 20 year old paint was showing some rust spots needed bottom and fronts of fenders welded in and door bottoms





looked good in pictures but was ruff paint wise but good mechanical


didn't take any pics of the sanding primer phase took me about a week and a half to get the panels fixed and paint it this is the doors they are fully welded then seem sealed inside and out



final product used Summits single stage worked awesome









[IMG]http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk228/ptbelt/IMG_3370.jpg[/IMG




also re-did the interior new carpet panels replaced the crappy 90s steering wheel with a stock one







then installed a/c because of the south hahah



Drove it like this until last week then began the next phase

[bowmans_army]

here is the motor set up to set run first time start since i uncrated it
fired right up and made 60psi has a 12 valve 6cylinder manifold cut
and welded for the turbo and a vgt 351 haven't decided yet how I'm
going to hook up the VGT system yet. on my cummins wagoneer it
basically is set for the turbo to get larger under boost but drops off
the second boost is gone



the down pipe will have to be change once i test fit the motor in the truck it
needs a more swept back system to clear the starter and heater and will def
need heat wrapped and a turbo blanket for the hot side



so here is were things get a little complicated so bear with me i wanted to run a chevy NV4500 with the 6:50 or whatever low first gear and since i got a great deal on one a while ago i decided to start fighting out how to run it. the motor came with a SAE3 bel housing and flywheel i then bought a 1st gen 12valve flywheel and Pressure plate and a 13inch 10 spline chevy clutch and turned down a bronze chevy pilot bearing to fit in the doge flywheel. once i was happy with that i needed to make a adaptor/ bell housing to go from the chevy to the SAE3 engine plate.

bare chevy 10 spline NV4500



sanz motor plate



SAE3 engine plate



template for the front of the bell housing



all cut out



ruff template for trans



then ruff cut it with the plasma



bolting it together for the last time hopefully



i don't have and close up of the finished product on here because it took me a week of aligning measuring remeasuring re-aligning on and on and on before i had it almost perfect i will get some pics when i get home from vecay

it was then time to start the tear down of the 68 first i removed
the grill and core support



poor good wrench 350 never saw it coming







and the turbo 350 and NP203



empty engine bay it has since been degreased and the motor test fit once



i don't have any pics of the test fit sorry wife needed taken on
Christmas vacation to her sister so here i am staying with the
in-laws when i have so much work i could be dong.

[bowmans_army]

this is were it will sit until i get home next week and weld the motor mounts in and start all the little crap that bogs this stuff down would love to get it done in the two weeks i have off but we will see. there is always something that shows up to bite me. also not to mention after a week of measuring and cussing cutting re-welding i will see if the adapter works good or I'm out buying the defrocked chevy to cummins adapter and bell that cost 2g or find a mystical chevy bread truck adapter plate.

[deejaaa1]

damn, i would LOVE a 4BT in my 93. tired of fighting this SOB 6.5.
tuned in for results.

[bowmans_army]

so i dug thru my phone and found couple pics of the bell housing before the final bracing i added ribs on each side of the bolts like back straps running from the large outer ring down to the bottoms to make sure it didnt want to tear apart







and a front comparison of a 4cylinder cummins and a 350. The 4bt weighs in a 760 pounds motor only so it is a lot heaver than anything GM put between the fenders in 68

[bowmans_army]

list of things to do before its compete

1.Motor mounts engine side and frame side
2.box frame
3.paint engine bay
4. paint stuff on motor
5. make A/C compressor bracket
6. make power steering pump bracket
7. install motor
8. make trans crossmember
9. go to junkyard and get new rear drive shaft (new tease has a clip yoke)
10. install front clip
11. new aluminium radiator in
12. and finish the intercooler
13. and tidy up the wring
14. figure out the exhaust

not a lot to do so we will see

[bowmans_army]

I was having a hard time trying to figure out what motor mounts
to use. I kept running into the horror stories about the vibrations
that the 4BT cummins throws off. I really wanted to run the stock
type cummins mounts found in 1994 and up Dodge cummins but
i felt the bushing may have been to hard. All my research led to the
discovery of the 1994 and up dodge gas trucks mounts. They are
the same type size but softer for so i found a used set on Ebay and got them.




the issue is they are made to mate up to the V8 at an angle not straight
on like the Cummins. so i had to make an adapter out of some 1/4 plate





they have a narrower 3 bolt pattern





i also made a 1/4 inch motor side plate that it will weld to at an angle
you can't see here but the motor mount will be a little bit in the frame
pocket on the driver side i will post more of the competed part tomorrow
still in an "Design Phase" it will be gusseted once it all fits to my liking

[bowmans_army]

after i scraped the inch of grease and junk from the stock crossmember i sprayed
some oven cleaner on it let it sit then sprayed it off



The trans Bushing I'm Using for my Chevy NV4500 is a stock 1994 Dodge cummins Auto trans mount i had from another project its big wide and soft
perfect for my soft big and squishy mount theory we will see if it holds true



the problem is the chevy style mount is just two giant holes



the Dodge mount will not just bolt into the crossmember



my plan was to cut out the space needed and weld in the new metal and
trans mount

[bowmans_army]

cut out the space between the two stock holes bolted the new mount to the
new plate and welded it in



i only welded the sides so if i need to change it after test fit, and yes the top of the diamond plate is ground smooth were the mount bolts up to.



done



last thing was to drill the holes out for the mount to fit onto the NV4500.

Its bolted in fit great will get more pictures of the progress tomorrow.

[deejaaa1]

great fix. looking good.

[bowmans_army]

thanks DeeJaaa1. hopefully it keeps going smooth

[bowmans_army]

so to finish this swap up here is the notch i took out of the drivers side to fit the timing cover and don't worry about the brake line i redid them.



here is the engine crossmember i made all .25 walled



went over the core support and frenched in the tubes on top turned out nice need to





french in flush need to put some new 90s in there because i dented those ones when i test fit my cut on the hood cross bar

[bowmans_army]

here is some random shots will get a good over all pic soon all the wiring is tided up now



lower water neck solution kinda crapy looking but works great for welding cast iron


upper radiator cross over trying to keep it out of the way so i can run the mechanical fan



have pluntey of room for one



had a heck of a time making the he351VGT spool but ended up making it fixed at a certain point and spools nicely now

[bowmans_army]

down pipe had to be remade turned out nice exhaust is 4 inch all the way no muffler



switched over to a hydro boost and my does this make your brakes awesome its all tight but fits nicely



still need to cover the hole but reservoir and master cylinder turned out nice



pedal is a brake pedal i cut and welded to make it look close to factory mounts to the same spot as a standard 67-72 chevy clutch



made the shifter fits nicely this is all the way in first so ac has plenty of room

[bowmans_army]

so i got it all together and took it on its first test drive and i could not go over 55mph scary slow. has an inline A pump on the motor so it has the RSV GOV or AG Gov that is used in fixed rpm motors, pumps gens and off road equipment. they also use them on pulling trucks though. so i research and found next to nothing i need i knew i needed a stronger gov spring and lighter flyweights but to no avail could i find part numbers or a shop who would part with those ether.got the same run around you could send me your pump i all put them in test it rebuild it and send it back for 900 dollars Go figure. i did come across two pictures of what the proper spring and flyweight size should be for a pump with an RSV gov to rev higher. So i said **** it i can rebuild a injection pump i should be able to modify it so i pulled the pump apart found out i had the large heaver spring already and cut off and modified the flyweights getting them within a few ounces of each other. put it together and low and behold it works amazingly no surging no crazy revs smooth and it revs to 3800rpm now.

here are the pics if your looking for RPM heaver spring and light flyweight is what you need i have no pics of mine didn't know if it were going to work so i didn't bother

[bowmans_army]

so it is up and running some things that i had to fix were:

the GOV being set at like 1900RPM: Modified GOV

home-brewed clutch release bearing retainer fubar: machined a new nice one pulled trany installed

kept running out of fuel pump pressure would drop to 2 psi after GOV modded truck would not rev and barely idled had to let it sit for a few and would start right back up: fixed new fuel lift pump. Old pump was low PSI pump.

had to make fuel return line fitting in tank filled up tank found small leak: pulled resealed it

injector return line leaking spraying fuel everywhere: replaced seal and the list goes on

things i did that no one will see

Made rear Drive shaft
insulated the cab with dino mat
stupid throw out bearing retainer
clutch mount
and some other stuff

i will take some better pict in the morning working good so far we will see tho

[bowmans_army]

and even though it was leaking a lot of fuel on a 40 mile trip it averaged 22mpg

[bowmans_army]

can some one move this to the diesel swaps area?

[deejaaa1]

send a pm to the mod.
nice fab work.
i would like one in my truck now! better than a 6BT.