What would you expect to pay for brakes on a c-20 2wd?

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

I know most answers is you wouldn't. I may be tearing down my 71 to the frame, but I've never even done a brake job.

Anyway, my 72 C-20 needs a new brake system from the master cylinder down. They quoted $2,000 - $2500. They're competent but what the?

I don't have to do anything about it for a while. It stops (ha!) and is mainly for parts swap, a few miles weekly, etc. As far as learning how to do it myself, I'll pass for the unforeseeable future. The "project" keeps me busy just fine.


Thank you

[jocko]

Well, it's not cheap to do the whole thing and the labor isn't exactly light either. When I did my 71 C20's brakes - similar situation, new mc, new lines, new disk/caliper/drums/booster - I'd say I had about 7-900 in parts in the whole mess. And it took me weeks to do it in my spare time. $2500 does seem a bit high still. If you were quoted $1500, I'd say about right. $2000 isn't out of the ballpark, but I'd call that on the high end. If they are turning the drums, chop about $100 off. If no booster, chop another $75 ish off. It's a lot of work to replace everything, and the parts aren't cheap anymore.

EDIT: Ok, disregard everything I just said...
I found the parts list of most of the stuff I ordered to do soup to nuts on my 71 C20: Around $1350 in parts total, not including paint for the backing plates, close to $200 for an original distrib block, a few emerg brake parts, etc. So, I'd say $2000 is very fair if you're having all this stuff replaced. $2500 not out to lunch as much as I thought either. Keep in mind this was a full resto on a brake system, incl parking brake parts, new bearings ($$ for quality ones) and so on. If you decide to do it yourself, I have ref pics if you want them.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Hey Jocko thank you. I agree, 2 max seems more reasonable, and their quote didn't include a booster. I'll sit on the idea a year or so, it's not a priority.

This truck is cool, but yeah, parting out isn't exactly a bad idea after all. That was my first consideration, but it's grown on me so I likely won't. In fact I had an Edelbrock carb installed today, because I needed a choke and didn't want to deal with it. Runs great but the secondaries or vacuum (I'm guessing) is holding it back.

[cdowns]

if you invest your time and money in a factory service manual you could save yourself a bundle of money and in the end hAVE A REAL OLD SCHOOL SKILL IN THE BANK

[brad_man_72]

Sounds fair for complete new front brakes, paying a professional and getting a warranty. These old trucks are definetly diy friendly, plus you already found the best online resource for info and help. You might even find somebody local willing to give you a hand in exchange for some beers.
If it isn't broke fix it till it is.
If you're not having problems why not just clean and paint what you have? I did have a brake drum explode on my truck... leaky wheel cylinders are easy to replace or even fix. Brake lines can be tricky to bend but a little practice you should be able to get by.
Its a rewarding project.

[Ken B]

IMHO the quote might be a little high but not by much. So much depends on where got that estimate from. I know you said they are competent but I can't stress how much this means these days.

[In The Ten Ring]

$2K? Ugh! Mine probably is just as bad.....

I'll bet you could do it on your own, the big question is, how soon do you need it done?

If you have the storage space, I'd try doing it alone with the help of this forum, or hiring a buddy/mechanic to come to you and help you do the work.

I have a stuck parking brake to figure out, which won't get done before next spring. I really wanted to have the truck driving by now, but I've gotten used to this truck not getting done on time. What's your time situation?

[Tiger Joe]

buy the parts and do it yourself. save a bunch of money. if you can get the drums cut instead of buying new you save even more money.

take 1 side apart at a time and you have the other for a diagram.

not trying to be an A$$ here, but you said you "might be tearing my 71 down to the frame". how are you going to build a truck from the frame up if you can't do a brake job?

[davepl]

Just to temper all of the "do it yourself" talk - make sure you know what you're doing. Paying a professional to build you a brake system can be cheap life insurance. The one thing you really, really want to work correctly on your truck is your brakes.

I did my own restoration, but I still had a pro check the brakes, especially the rear drums, to make sure all of the little springs and clips were in correctly. There are lots of opportunities for errors (especially with drums).

If you're a competent shadetree mechanic there's nothing overly daunting about any of this, but "entire brake system" shouldn't be your first major project, I don't think.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Very informative Jocko, thanks again.

As for doing it myself, that's not going to happen anytime soon, not that it needs to. Honestly, my other truck is priority. Everything I do on that is completely new to me, and there's not enough brain-space or time to deal with brakes on the 72. That said, it would be nice to learn how to do this.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by davepl

Just to temper all of the "do it yourself" talk - make sure you know what you're doing. Paying a professional to build you a brake system can be cheap life insurance. The one thing you really, really want to work correctly on your truck is your brakes.

I did my own restoration, but I still had a pro check the brakes, especially the rear drums, to make sure all of the little springs and clips were in correctly. There are lots of opportunities for errors (especially with drums).

If you're a competent shadetree mechanic there's nothing overly daunting about any of this, but "entire brake system" shouldn't be your first major project, I don't think.

Bolding mine. I don't care if a vehicle isn't fast, or doesn't even run, or how it looks. But if it doesn't stop properly, it is a menace to everyone. For the OP- given shop rates and the (retail) cost of parts, I don't think $2500 is out of line at all. People flinch when they see these kind of numbers for an old truck, but that is the reality. Ain't anything cheap, anymore. I also do wood working. You should see how much the price of wood has gone up in the last few years. SMH

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Agreed, I don't like the fact I have risk-brakes. This is no daily driver by a long shot. Problem is I'd rather not spend the cash at the moment, considering all the effort into the 71..........Not that I won't.

I originally bought the 72 for a great source for parts, references, and yeah cuz it's a cool truck. The cab has some rust issues, so my first thought leaned to parting it someday. Rebuilt engine, good suspension, new radiator and belts, and the transmission has some life left (best production AT built).......Thing is, between the carburetor I've already done, some basic maint. and then you add brakes, I'd have matched what I paid for the truck in the first place.

Edit: I guess what I'm trying to say is I'll have near 7K into this truck, which wasn't near the plan in the first place. I was going to sit on it and decide what to do later, though keep it running. That 7k doesn't pencil out in my mind.......But I do like it for hauling...(Three trucks and only one can haul..Ha!. My Tundra has a cap.). That and it is fun to drive, and projects are always cool. If I bite the bullet on the brakes now, that means I take a hit later or just keep it. On top of everything else, the wheels and tires will need to be replaced.

[toolboxchev]

Napa

Master Cylinder about 60.00, Shoes were 50.00, drums 50.00 each side, wheel cylinders 30.00 a side.

2,500 bucks is nuts for a system re-do.

I did the work, priceless

[Grumpy old man]

That has to be one of the highest quotes I've ever seen for a brake job , you could buy a brand new very complete entire power replacement system for 1/3 of that ! From the rubber foot pedal cover to the rear shoes , with the availability of new pre bent lines and low cost parts and no speciality tools required why not do it yourself ? It's got to be one of the easiest systems to work on . For $2,500 I'd want an all new Wilwood disc brake system installed . Find a new mechanic . Piratejack.net

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Just called another place specializing in brakes. He says brakes from the brake booster down, with new drums and rotors is $1400 tops. That other quote didn't even include a booster, though I don't have it in writing. If rubber hose lines are necessary then add another $100. Other than those parts, can you imagine anything else that may require brakes replacement, assuming the brakes have never been touched? Note: He says proportioning valves rarely need replacement, so that wasn't included. That said, I suspect mine has been replaced, possibly along with the MC. FOr whatever it's worth, I included a picture of those:

OT: I read replacement boosters may be junk. Thoughts?

[Grumpy old man]

I just bought all new brake system parts for my short bed 67 farm truck,

all wheel cylinders
rubber lines
hard lines (inline tube)
brake shoes
master cylinder
I had the drums turned

I have less than $400.00 spent I'm wondering why you seem inclined to pay someone else to do it when you could spend a Sat and save a ton of cash ?

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

I just bought all new brake system parts for my short bed 67 farm truck,

all wheel cylinders
rubber lines
hard lines (inline tube)
brake shoes
master cylinder
I had the drums turned

I have less than $400.00 spent I'm wondering why you seem inclined to pay someone else to do it when you could spend a Sat and save a ton of cash ?

SPEND A SATURDAY? You should know me better than that, I'm slow as heck dismantling this truck, ALL first time out. I likely overdue it, but I try to take in every detail, because I'm writing a manual and do the research up front. I want to be good a prepped for assembly, which is a good 1-2 years off. Assembly will be far easier than this. More enjoyable too, because trust me, this manual is a tremendous PAIN IN THE (*^. Pretty nice though, I do know how to write "processes". That's what they pay me for anyway. I figure about 100 pages and I'm at 50, though I feel like I'm at least 60% done. On a side note, I retire in two months. Pinch me and hallelujah. This truck will be dismantled by June.

Too occupied with my 71 to learn to do brakes on the driver. But I'd like to learn how in the future, on the 71. Wish you were here, I'd stock up on Heineken and kick down some cash.

[LongBox]

Like a lot of guys, I wanted a car really badly when I was in my late teens, and figured out that my Dad's car was boring. Of course, I didn't have enough money to own a car, and neither did any of my friends. So, we learned how to do brakes, cylinder head replacements, suspension work, carb rebuilding, ignition and lots else by working together on weekends.

To this day, I am extremely glad I was "forced" to learn how to work on cars. Saved me thousands over the years, both because I did a lot of my own jobs, and because I could spot the bullsh*t from shops trying to sell me work and parts I didn't need. Brakes and exhaust are two of the highest profit jobs in the entire industry, and neither is rocket science.

Get a buddy who's mechanically inclined, and work together with him. You will really feel good about the new skills and knowledge you pick up.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

$2118 out the door. Difference from the original estimate (different shop) is everything but hard lines and combination valve from the brake booster down is new. They had to buy a new brake adjuster kit, and they drained the differential too. That and I found a great shop, Carson Brake and Alignment Plus.

[Tiger Joe]

Wow.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by Tiger Joe

Wow.

Lots of $. I'd have saved $900ish doing it myself, but under the circumstances, I'd rather learn to do brakes on my other ride.

Another $2100 spent on what was nearly a parts truck. The truck was 3K, I'll have spent that and more on brakes, carb., wheels and tires.

Brakes were thrashed. Ask me what it's like to discover they completely fail on ice approaching a busy four lane hwy. Worse yet the choke hadn't completely released. I had the curb in sight, but the E-brake stopped the truck 20' short of the stop sign. Guess I was somewhat prepared for that, but not one of my better days. "E"-brake is right.