trailing arm crossmember questions

[statenine]

Hey guys, I'm new to trucks and am wanting to go as low as I can on my 66 SWB without doing a full dropmember front, tunneling the cab etc. I will be running air bags front and back. I want to use as many stock parts as possible to keep cost down. I plan on using CPP drop spindles up front and a 6-8" notch in the back, with stock trailing arms and 3" or 4" lowering blocks. My goal is to have it sit like the truck below when aired out all the way.

My question is regarding the trailing arm crossmember. Do I need to replace my stock one with one of the aftermarket ones made for lowering (porterbuilt, ece, brothers etc.)? How low can I go in the back before the driveshaft hits the top of the opening in the stock trailing arm crossmember? Thanks!

[PGSigns]

That truck is close to laying on the frame. In the front you will get to a point with the drop spindles and bags that the a-arms sit on the ground. On my 65 with it aired out and a 2" notch set up so the rear end rested on the bed wood sat pretty level. I'll try and post a picture once I find a good one. To get lower than that you start having to do things like Z-ing the frame and pancaking the front cross member.
Jimmy

[statenine]

Thanks for the reply Jimmy. I spoke with the owner of that red truck and he is only running drop spindles and bags in the front, and he said his a-arms do rest on the ground. In the rear, he has a medium sized step notch, and raised the bed floor a few inches for clearance. He is running 3" or 4" lowering blocks on the stock trailing arms as well. He is also running a 2 piece driveshaft which avoids any clearance issues with the TA crossmember, but he seemed to think that I could still get this low with my stock TA crossmember and single piece driveshaft. I am just looking for confirmation on that from someone that has gone this low with a stock TA crossmember and single piece driveshaft. thanks!

[PGSigns]

To get down a little lower in the back you can flip the trailing arm brackets to help with the pinion angle issues. One thing about a tall block is they move the rear axle forward so be aware of that. On the top of the trailing arm cross member you can cut it an move it up if needed. When you go real low the drive shaft angles can get a little steep and cause u-joint issues. You can point the pinion right at the back of the trans at ride height and have a drive shaft built with a CV joint in the front. Here is a picture of my 65.
Jimmy

[statenine]

Thanks Jimmy, I like the stance on your truck! I do want the back very slightly lower though. As long as the driveshaft angle isn't too steep at driving height, it should be fine right? The angle will be really steep when fully aired out, but I won't be driving it like that anyways.

When your truck is fully aired out how is the angle on the driveshaft? Do you have plenty of clearance in the opening on your TA crossmember? I would only want to go down maybe 2 or so more inches than in your pic

[damnyankee36]

See my earlier response in the "raising the "hoop" in trailing arm crossmember?" post.

Pics show mine completely dropped with just 2.5" drop spindles and and about a 3" frame notch w/2" lowering blocks.