Headers- to be or not to be?

[396C-10]

I am finding out the hard way that headers are a huge pain in the ars. Melting plug wires, battey/starter cable, excessive heat, starter access, heated brake lines/fluid, fitment and the list goes on and on.... Is it really worth it? No, I do not think it is. I am throwing away my headers and installing manifolds. I would like to hear your experiences or input on the matter and maybe learn some ideas on which way to go.

[GR8-68]

Well about any performance vehicle I have owned I have installed headers on, one thing I have found is you can not buy a header that they sacrificed good design on to make affordable. Now know there are sacrifices when you go to a header as most cast iron stock manifolds were designed to save space and not necessarily designed for best performance as the exhaust gases are released they are trying to share the same port therefore causing restrictions.

So there is options out there to run a header without some of the issues you have stated. One is to buy a decent set of headers a good choice is ceramic coated as one they are protected from rusting and two it helps eliminate some of the high heat. Two, choose plug wires that work well with the header you have chosen, not all wires work well with headers, I have also seen that sometimes you may need to use more than one boot style to obtain proper wire clearances. Three, they also make header wrap to help eliminate header heat, no it doesn't look the prettiest if you like a clean engine bay but it works.

So if you need the performance gains headers are great if you are just daily driving it it probably would not be worth the aggravation. I just bought a set of Doug Thorley headers for my 68, yes, they are pricey but there is plenty of good clearances for the wires.

[Katrina/10]

I never had a set of headers that I liked, due to all the problems you mentioned. But, they were always cheapos. I put stock manifolds back on, and didn't notice any difference in performance just driving around town and some trips on the interstate.

[Rod Run]

Headers are a great modification if you do your research before buying.

The old adage "you get what you pay for" is really true with headers. I will not hesitate to spend $600.00 - $800.00 on a good set of headers. If someone can sell headers for $150.00 and they look ALMOST the same as the $600.00 pair, you need to ask yourself why.

That extra cost is there for a reason

[46stude]

I don't care for headers. Some folks might not like to admit it, but most of our trucks aren't making enuff power to really "hurt" performance by using the factory manifolds instead of headers.

[suprachrgd82]

Wrap 'em.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...MobileSwitchNo

[truckster]

I got tired of the problems with my headers, and I'm old enough I don't need extra noise coming through the firewall. My new build is getting 2.5 inch rams' horns.

[68 Stepper]

I got rid of my headers last year when I rebuilt my engine, replaced them with Tru-Ram manifolds with the 2.5 collector. I have not missed my headers, but they were cheapos....

[kwmech]

When I bought my 68 GMC it had a 396 in it that the previous owner had installed headers. I fu...d with them for about 3 years until I got fed up and put some factory manifolds on. I then had the head pipes put into a flowmaster Y. From there it went into a single 3'' muffler. The truck has never run better. Plenty of flow even after putting in a 454. Headers are way over rated for a street vehicle unless you're pumping in excess of 500 ponies

[Stocker]

IMHO, headers are worth it *only* when bolted to a high performance engine, which of course is open for discussion. I installed just one set of headers in my life and probably never will again, but I sure loved the ones I had. My '65 Corvette had a healthy factory SBC and I gave it a set of Hooker headers. Perfect match, ran & sounded fantastic, but of course I was much younger then.

[JustToxic]

Headers are great on a engine that needs them. Otherwise your just wasting money. But with that said, most people that have headers don't install them correctly and don't maintain them correctly. Like said before, when you have a set of headers you need to make sure your plugs and wires are clear from them or else you'll have issues. You also need to make sure they don't come close to any other component. I haven't seen this mentioned hardly in any discussion of headers is you have to make sure the bolts are tight almost every time you change the oil. Almost all of the problems people have with any set of headers is that is the bolts come loose either at the head or at the front pipe, when they come loose at the head, it doesn't matter what spark plug wires you buy you'll have issues. I've ran headers on my 383 stroker for the last 7 years and the only problems I've ran into has been from the bolts coming loose.

[demian5]

You gotta prepare for the inevitable when installing.
- securing plug wires away and shielding from heat when close.
- Buy a good set off header gaskets if the ones with the headers suck.
- red RTV on the header side of the gasket since that surface will not be as true as the head.
- tighten them each day after installing them and running them until they don't tighten anymore, then check then eveytime you go under the hood for anything.
- Use grade 8 for the collector bolts.

[Oregon 1967 GMC]

I like my Hedman Headers and Hookers are really good too. The only headers I'll ever purchase.

[1972RedNeck]

Originally Posted by 46stude

I don't care for headers. Some folks might not like to admit it, but most of our trucks aren't making enuff power to really "hurt" performance by using the factory manifolds instead of headers.

^This. While headers will add a little power to the stock 350 or 396/402, how much are we actually talking? 20 HP?

Now if you have a souped up 496 or the like under the hood, headers are a no-brainer.

[trac209]

Well all issues with headers aside they are the cheapest hp your engine will ever get unless you use nitrous. I've seen big improvements in virtually stock engines just going to headers and a free flowing exhaust. And let's face it if you're not making much power to begin with why not make the most of it. Even cheap headers can be made to seal and be virtually maintenance free. The ones on my vehicles are

[jocko]

I think I felt a bigger boost by just flipping my air cleaner lid (when I was 16). Not worth the $ and time unless it's a modified engine.

[special-K]

I always run headers and don't have any of the problems you have listed. I run my wires away from high-heat exhaust parts, starter is easy to remove, they fit, and no heated brake fluid issues ever. I think people just think what they think and feed a lot off of what others say.

All my trucks have run great with headers, I noticed the difference. I didn't notice more noise from under the hood. The mufflers are still the factor that affects sound. I find headers are easier to service. I have had serious manifold failure out on the road. I have been plagued with chronic donut gasket leaks. Would much rather remove a starter on a truck with headers than get up into that area to fix a donut. Let's not even get into broken or roached exhaust manifold studs. I don't know an exhaust guy who doesn't hate those. Collector gasket leak? Just crank the bolts tight and they break off, slip new gasket in, and three new bolts, nuts, and lock washers. I always double gasketed there when all there was were cheap gaskets. That worked fine. Now with copper core no problems ever. It was rare with the double paper as well.

I have stepped away from a lot of high-performance gimmick unreliable BS and found that factory design is your best tried and true option. But, I hang on to my headers because I have found more reasons to keep than get rid of. And we are talking a lot of trucks, a lot of years, a lot of miles, with a lot of uses.

[GRX]

Agree with others in that headers are used too often when the engine cannot benefit from them. Rodding magazines are good at convincing people they are automatic bolt on horsepower in every situation.

That said ... I did put a split header on my 250 since that manifold is fairly restrictive, plus it breathes better than stock with the "towing cam". Those two together did wake it up a bit.

You want to talk about PITA? Try headers on a Pontiac V-8. No plug wire issues but the way the exhaust ports are configured makes the bolts a nightmare.

[HO455]

Originally Posted by GRX

Agree with others in that headers are used too often when the engine cannot benefit from them. Rodding magazines are good at convincing people they are automatic bolt on horsepower in every situation.

That said ... I did put a split header on my 250 since that manifold is fairly restrictive, plus it breathes better than stock with the "towing cam". Those two together did wake it up a bit.

You want to talk about PITA? Try headers on a Pontiac V-8. No plug wire issues but the way the exhaust ports are configured makes the bolts a nightmare.

Pontiac headers are a walk in the park compared to AMC dogleg heads.
The biggest problem with most headers is they are assembled as cheaply as possible and then most people install them as received. I've learned that you have to buy the thickest flanges possible then resurface them so they are true to each other. Cut the three bolt outlet flange off and use a good guality truck band or a Marmon style coupling to seal. These will allow the headers to move around separately from the exhaust piping to a certain extent. When I went to the truck bands on my GTO I definitely had vastly fewer gasket failures.
Headers will also improve your gas mileage if sized correctly. One of the best bang for the bucks out there. Not to say there aren't decent factory manifolds out there, but GM didn't put them on our trucks. They had other priorities like making money.

[mosel70]

Guy before me put on wrong headers, were making contact with the frame and were round port, however my 402 ('70 Chevy C10 SS) is a square port block. I put on new Hooker headers, perfect fit and wrapped them first with DEI Titanium Exhaust Wrap with LR Technology 010130 from Summit, used steel zip ties, dramatically reduced heat under the hood, important here in Las Vegas.
Be careful with the exhaust wrap, cover all skin as it can really make the skin itch and stays in clothes even after washing. Cool wrap as is doesn't need to be water soaked before using. There are calculators online that help you determine what length is needed for each pipe(s). Headers are low to ground so I'm careful over speed bumps and dips. Used Magnum mufflers, really cool low sound, especially after engine is warmed up. Headers - go for it!