5.3 Turbo swap 68 Stepside C10-Project Sky Dogggg maannnnn

[downbytheriver]

Originally Posted by Metaldoc

Nice work, Did you put tubes through the holes for the U-bolts? The 2x2 and 2x3 hss so when you tighten the u-bolts it doesn't crush the hss tubing.
If you put a small tack weld at the end where your weld will finish. Weld to the tack and stop on it. Allow some gas to cool the weld after arc is out. This should help with the crater at the weld end.
Derek

Hmmm I didn't actually put inserts in them...Do you think it's necessary? It's .188 wall erw tubing. If it's a necessity, I'd rather just go pick up some billet and drill through that...just painted the suckers tonight! That back support is welded on with two beads all around, so that should provide some vertical support.

Thanks for the weld tip, between that and pulling out of the heat slower, I should be able to rid my welds of those craters.

[Metaldoc]

Originally Posted by downbytheriver

Hmmm I didn't actually put inserts in them...Do you think it's necessary? It's .188 wall erw tubing. If it's a necessity, I'd rather just go pick up some billet and drill through that...just painted the suckers tonight! That back support is welded on with two beads all around, so that should provide some vertical support.

Thanks for the weld tip, between that and pulling out of the heat slower, I should be able to rid my welds of those craters.

I built my own set and I put tubes through the holes and plan to do the same for the spacers. I do think it's necessary from past experience .

[downbytheriver]

Originally Posted by Metaldoc

I built my own set and I put tubes through the holes and plan to do the same for the spacers. I do think it's necessary from past experience .

Love the ends on those, and your metalworking ability is top notch!

I'm probably going to stick with the open holes, just because of the sheer amount of "stuff" that the u bolts would have to go through to crush anything. I've got fom top to bottom, the axle tubes/saddles/lowering blocks/1.25" ece spacer plate/trailing arm/shock relocation spacer.

The lowering blocks and trailing arms together add up to .75" of wall thickness, that'd be a hell of a lot to crush. What'd you make your trailing arm bushings out of? I have this acetron (delrin with injected lubrication) that I'm going to use.

[downbytheriver]

Did a little bit of rust removal on a set of backing plates the other day. Worked really well! Left them for about 10 hours total in 10 gallons of water with 2/3 cup of washing soda.

Before:






After, just needs a little bit of finish wire wheeling:




Trailing arms are done and painted. Really need to get these bushings rolling so that I can get this rear end together, and the pinion angle set. Then, it'll be time to measure for the driveshaft and work out any kinks.

[Metaldoc]

Originally Posted by downbytheriver

Love the ends on those, and your metalworking ability is top notch!

I'm probably going to stick with the open holes, just because of the sheer amount of "stuff" that the u bolts would have to go through to crush anything. I've got fom top to bottom, the axle tubes/saddles/lowering blocks/1.25" ece spacer plate/trailing arm/shock relocation spacer.

The lowering blocks and trailing arms together add up to .75" of wall thickness, that'd be a hell of a lot to crush. What'd you make your trailing arm bushings out of? I have this acetron (delrin with injected lubrication) that I'm going to use.

All my bushings are factory size, all energy suspension polyurethane for 67-72 c10 so I can go and replace if needed without a problem. I learned that lesson twice. Keep workin hard looking great.

[downbytheriver]

Haven't had much time to work on the truck lately, but I finally got a chance to machine the control arm bushings out of acetron. The lathe did a pretty good job, but it took forever because we hooked a treadmill motor up to it (don't ask) and I just don't think it wants to cooperate, even with plastic. Took forever!





Also got the manifold fully done with the wastegate flange welded on, so it's time to wrap it up. I'm also working on a plan to hide the coil packs in the frame channel. Hope to have most of the rear end assembled this weekend.

[downbytheriver]

The old lady is out of town, so I had some serious time to get things done today...crazy how that works, isn't it?

I finally got the rear end put together and installed. I do have a bit of advice for anyone dealing with a ford rear end for the first time...don't use a gasket! Use silicone gasket maker instead. I ended up accidentally shimming the center section toward the front of the truck by using rtv and a paper gasket. You can see how far off it was below. I had some serious trouble splining the axle until I figured that one out.

Anyway, I was still having trouble on the passenger side until I then realized the axle was 1/4" too long. It was bottoming out against the center section, and I couldn't get the retainer in place. I cut the axle on my chop saw, and then used a flap wheel to even it all out and put the chamfer back in. This was, needless to say, a real pain in the ass.

Long story short, after the axle was cut, all was well and everything fit perfectly. I really cannot believe how perfectly everything went together. I'm currently waiting for something to simply fall apart out there in the garage. The wheels fit in the housings, with the perfect amount of space, the lowering blocks were spot on, and the only thing I have left to do is work the housing towards the back of the truck on the passenger side (the holes in everything are big enough to do this) because I've got a little bit of toe in. I also need to set the pinion angle and weld the saddles on, then order a driveshaft. Need to totally rebuild the drums too, which I've never done.

Accidentally shimmed the center section this far:

[downbytheriver]

Can't believe it's already been a year since I've updated this. I've gotten wayy more done, including getting her running. I also got a new intercooler mounted with a bracket I made, made a catch can, finished most of the wiring, got most of the exhaust done, and a bunch of other odds and ends that hopefully soon results in a "finished" product.

All that's really left is to run the brake lines and then take her for a spin and figure out what needs buttoned up. I'm trying to make the spring rod run in Daytona in march, so I'm really under a time constraint. It just may not end up painted or with the bed finished for it





First attempt at a "weave"...looks like someone ripped this weave off someone else's head in a fight

[downbytheriver]

Forgot about this little idea. So I ditched the hideous truck intake, and seeing as how I'm trying to stay with the classic theme in a lot of ways, I'm gonna hide the throttle body inside a huge 350 diesel air cleaner (yeah, I know) to make it look like a SBC. Since I have a turbo, It'll be more of a ram air inlet ebacsue I don't feel like sealing off the air cleaner, but the throttle body will be hidden, and that's what I'm really going for. I'd like to fool some people if possible. I'm going to work on the specifics of it when the air cleaner gets here. Yes, I need much more orange paint.

[tinydb84]

Just read your whole thread. Very cool! Love all the old tools.