Alternator

[ShinyC10]

So I have my system set up to the T of this picture attatched. Recently, the nut came loose on my alt BAT stud and blew the fuse to the jblock. Replaced the fuse and swapped out the stud (couldn't find a nut to properly fit the existing stud) and it ran fine in park. When I put it in drive and started down the road, the fuse blew. I have a few ideas what could be causing the problem:
1. Alternator is bad
2. Somewhere in the charging system something is shorted
3. Awhile back my horn and right blink muffed up and somehow connected themselves together. Everytime I used my right blinker the horn went off. So I disconnected my horns so they won't honk but still when I press my horn the right blinker goes off.

[Dead Parrot]

I think you should only have one connection to the BATT+ terminal on the alternator. When the 8-guage FL blew, the output of the alternator would have used the remaining 10 gauge link into the firewall harness. With the sense wire still live to the J-block, the alternator probably responded by spiking the voltage trying to get the the sense wire up to proper voltage at the bus bar. Might explain why your horn-turn signal is messed up. If the main hot to the J-block was making a poor connection due to loose nut while the smaller 10 gauge link had a good connection, the full Alt power was going into your firewall harness. Might check for melted wires in the column or under the dash.

[ShinyC10]

Update:
Started pullin fuses to see what's up and the only thing that made my test light go out is that metal circuit breaker fuse for the power accessory. It's located on the top right side of the fuse box. Any suggestions? Thanks

[ShinyC10]

Originally Posted by Dead Parrot

I think you should only have one connection to the BATT+ terminal on the alternator. When the 8-guage FL blew, the output of the alternator would have used the remaining 10 gauge link into the firewall harness. With the sense wire still live to the J-block, the alternator probably responded by spiking the voltage trying to get the the sense wire up to proper voltage at the bus bar. Might explain why your horn-turn signal is messed up. If the main hot to the J-block was making a poor connection due to loose nut while the smaller 10 gauge link had a good connection, the full Alt power was going into your firewall harness. Might check for melted wires in the column or under the dash.

I guess I lied when I said to a T lol I only have one connection to the BATT. It goes from the jblock to the BATT with an online maxi fuse 40amp

[v30crewcab]

sounds like you have a bad ground somewhere.

[El Dorado Jim]

post this in the electrical section and you will probably get your answer..