50 gmc

[55dude]

this is a posting test

[MARTINSR]

If you wanted to post a photo sideways with the focus on a broken tail light and a Playboy magazine on some mud, you succeeded!


Brian

[mr48chev]

A bit of that Tacoma rust going on there but it doesn't look that bad.

[vintovka]

Originally Posted by MARTINSR

If you wanted to post a photo sideways with the focus on a broken tail light and a Playboy magazine on some mud, you succeeded!


Brian

The system may be problem Often uploads pics sideways or upside down.

[55dude]

more pictures

[55dude]

pictures! pictures!

[55dude]

craigslist score! $300 with paperwork!

[55dude]

soaking the 228 right now, if it doesn't pan out i have plenty of options but i would like to run the 228/T5 4 wheel disc brakes.... the only thing missing was the stock seat. didn't see the stock gas tank.

[55dude]

ok. 2 days later of a Marvel Mystery Oil soak and nothing so i just fed it 2 liters of regular Coke and in a couple days i will check it's progress. my boroscope showed some light rust and i will post before and after pictures!

[Henry50]

Try acetone and ATF 50/50 mix

[55dude]

Originally Posted by Henry50

Try acetone and ATF 50/50 mix

just mixed some up!

[1project2many]

Rust! Those of us in the "High Corrosion" states have to deal with it all the time.

Think of a rusty area like a sore spot on the metal that's swelling up. If the iron around your piston swells up enough it will squeeze the piston until there's no way for the piston to move. The only fix is to remove the rust.

When you try to move a rusty, seized part when its dry you are attempting to break the rust holding it. Because the part is dry, rust will break into tiny abrasive pieces and wedge against each other and against the part. Forcing the stuck part further can cause the part to break or can cause so much friction at the wedged spot(s) that one or both components can become damaged. Adding penetrating oil helps but not for the reason most people think. There aren't many penetrating oils that will really dissolve rust. Most of the time oil will saturate an area filling in any pores and pits in rust. Then when you attempt to move your seized part the oil reduces friction at the interface allowing rust molecules to slide, twist, and be pushed out of the way. This can take time and lots of repeated motion combined with many liberal re-applications of penetrating oil when the rust is thick. Effectively you're breaking rust into the smallest pieces you can and flushing out of the way. The only way this works is if you can get one of your two pieces to move, and if you can get enough oil / lubricant into the rust.


If you can find a method to chemically alter rust then you can sometimes speed the process. Using an acid can help as rust will react with acid and produce a salt plus water. The salts usually occupy less space than the rust so the part can move. This approach can be dangerous if using a strong acid. It can also damage the parts you are attempting to free up if one of them is more reactive than acid (think aluminum pistons). Still, some industrial strength rust removers do contain acid and they are extremely effective at removing rust, not just saturating it. Another method is using electricity to alter rust. This works in cases where you can saturate the rusty area with electrolyte and apply a small voltage over time.

When working with different metals such as aluminum next to iron you have an added disadvantage of potentially working with different types of "rust." Aluminum oxidizes very aggressively when placed next to iron. Aluminum oxide "swells up" more than iron rust. Although I am often able to free up what most people give up on with steel or iron, I have had to admit defeat more than once where dissimilar metals are in contact. In In these cases I have had to split, drill, or break one of the two pieces in order to relieve the pressure created as aluminum oxide swells from one part and iron oxide swells from the other. I have seen brackets literally split because this pressure is too great.

If you have time, you may be able to free up a badly stuck engine. Soaking with any type of thin oil and keeping the parts soaked is the first step. Coming back and repeatedly applying pressure to try and get the crank or piston moving is the next key. Vibrating, tapping, or hitting the piston can certainly help. Applying a bunch of leverage against the flywheel to create a massive amount of torque on the rod can be effective as well. It doesn't hurt one bit to use air to blowout any rust that loosens up. This is a game of try, wait, try again. Keep in mind that I have seen engines where the piston had to be destroyed to gain access to the block. In one case the piston behind the ring groove had corroded and pushed the rings out. There's very little chance for a chemical to work its way into an area like this. The oxide molecules are just squeezed too tightly to allow it.

I will say one of the best penetrating oils I've used is Torque CB. This stuff is nothing like "PB Blaster," "Liquid Wrench," "WD-40," or any other OTC product. I've never tried using it for a stuck piston but if I really needed to get one out in the least time possible, I would bite the bullet and invest in a couple of cans of this.

[whitedog76]

Don't forget to soak the lifters with your penetrating mix.

They can seize up in their bores too.