Best way to remove rivets from frame? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

johnymac · 02-17-2002, 04:51 PM

I need to remove 6 rivets from my frame in order to install my new shock relocator kit and a front sway bar on my 67 C10.

I am curious what methods have been used in removing these rivets?
I hear drill them out, or use a cutting wheel on a drill, grind them off, not sure which might be the easiest.
I am going to try and tackle soon, my power tool collection is shall we say lacking.

I have a friend with a portable air compressor, I was thinking maybe buying an air drill.

Can anyone suggest the best way to remove these before I start buying any tools.

Thanks very much!!

**68SWB4x4** · 02-17-2002, 05:07 PM

use a 4 1/2 grinder to grind the heads down, and if they dont come out after that drill them out (ALOT easier to drill them out after you grind the heads down)

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My Truck pictures

www.xframeimpala.com

68 4x4 short fleetside 327 CH465 edelbrock intake and carb MSD distributor its the "SHAGROLET"
56 big window short stepside 235 dual 1 brls
64ImpalaSS 327
70 C10 LWB fleetside custom/10 350/TH350
IM me on aol SN= SHAGROLET

u2slow · 02-17-2002, 06:40 PM

You can use a torch if you're good... or grind them down, then assault them with an air hammer. Both ways work good

upzndownz · 02-18-2002, 03:20 PM

best way I've found is to grind them flat then drill them out

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71lwb C-10 rust-free ac 300crate,2004r,4.10 lowered2/3,some original black/white paint 50%primer DAILY DRIVER
71 2wd blazer leaks EVERYWHERE rusty starts and drives everytime,DAILY DRIVE
LOOKING FOR 38-39FORD coupe

rico_bob · 02-18-2002, 07:47 PM

Quickest way is to get a sharp metal chisel, a big ball peen hammer, and a pair of heavy leather gloves (you will smack your hand at least once!) And place the chisel right up next to the frame rail at the edge of the rivets. Give it a good sharp rap, and you will be surprised how easy they cut off! You also will need a 1/4 to 3/8 inch drift pin to knock out the rivets. It is clean; plus you won't end up with any grinder marks or whoops! holes from the torch!
BEEN THERE, DONE THIS, AND IT WORKS! ricobob

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If you think you can you're right. If you think you can't you're still right.

Current project: 1957 Chevy Short Wheel Base Stepside, with '58 GMC Big Window Cab, w/327 camel heads, 350 TH Automatic, tilt wheel, and thinking of doing a IFS.

gchemist · 02-19-2002, 07:04 AM

I agree with rico_bob. I used the same method on my truck when I lowered it. One good whack and the rivet heads come right off!!! Easier than the other methods mentioned.

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Gerardo
1983 Custom Truck
TX Plates: "BAD BOW"
http://www.geocities.com/abetterchemist/

ColinOpseth · 02-19-2002, 11:40 AM

the same concept works for when you lose the wheel locks on your car (minus the drift pin (punch) step)

i agree with the previous two posters, knock the head off the rivet and then punch out the rivet

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Webmaster: www.GMPerformance.org

johnymac · 02-19-2002, 12:02 PM

I want to thank everyone for the ideas.

I am going to buy the chisel and punch tonight. If that fails, will buy the grinder this weekend.

Really appreciate the info!

imaindianoutlaw · 02-21-2002, 04:36 PM

have fun grinding

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$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
imaindianoutlaw@yahoo.com

REFRIGERATION TECH

FOR SALE
1963 Pontiac Tempest
1965 Pontiac GTO
1956 Pontiac 2 dr

Charles W. Hein
S.Williamsport PA

rustfree · 02-22-2002, 03:20 PM

hope I'm not to late with this, but for what it's worth...spent a couple hours under my truck last night removing the stock upper shock brackets and if you find as little room under there as I did laying on your back trying to swing a hammer/chisel or run a grinder then I think you'll find the easiest method to removed the rivets is to center punch them and work your way up with drill bits until you can punch out the rivet shank. It worked for me anyway.

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72 swb cheyenne super 350/350
69 cst20 BB longhorn

02-17-2002, 04:51 PM	#1
johnymac Registered User Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Dover, NH USA Posts: 194	Best way to remove rivets from frame? I need to remove 6 rivets from my frame in order to install my new shock relocator kit and a front sway bar on my 67 C10. I am curious what methods have been used in removing these rivets? I hear drill them out, or use a cutting wheel on a drill, grind them off, not sure which might be the easiest. I am going to try and tackle soon, my power tool collection is shall we say lacking. I have a friend with a portable air compressor, I was thinking maybe buying an air drill. Can anyone suggest the best way to remove these before I start buying any tools. Thanks very much!!

02-17-2002, 05:07 PM	#2
68SWB4x4 Strongman Garage Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Salinas, CA Posts: 10,241	use a 4 1/2 grinder to grind the heads down, and if they dont come out after that drill them out (ALOT easier to drill them out after you grind the heads down) ------------------ My Truck pictures www.xframeimpala.com 68 4x4 short fleetside 327 CH465 edelbrock intake and carb MSD distributor its the "SHAGROLET" 56 big window short stepside 235 dual 1 brls 64ImpalaSS 327 70 C10 LWB fleetside custom/10 350/TH350 IM me on aol SN= SHAGROLET __________________ Kalle 68 GMC Suburban 1500 4x4 SOLD 69 Pontiac Lemans 99 Silverado 4.8 5 speed ECSB [ Facebook Instagram Subscribe on YOUTUBE

02-17-2002, 06:40 PM	#3
u2slow Web Wheeler Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: BC, Canada, eh? Posts: 388	You can use a torch if you're good... or grind them down, then assault them with an air hammer. Both ways work good __________________ '66 C10 longstep - Clifford equiped '84 C20 Suburban 6.2L - awaiting 4x4 conversion '91 V3500 Crewcab - awaiting diesel swap

02-18-2002, 03:20 PM	#4
upzndownz Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: DAYTONA BEACH U.S.A. Posts: 39	best way I've found is to grind them flat then drill them out ------------------ 71lwb C-10 rust-free ac 300crate,2004r,4.10 lowered2/3,some original black/white paint 50%primer DAILY DRIVER 71 2wd blazer leaks EVERYWHERE rusty starts and drives everytime,DAILY DRIVE LOOKING FOR 38-39FORD coupe __________________ 71lwb C-10 rust-free ac 300crate,2004r,4.10 lowered2/3,some original black/white paint 50%primer DAILY DRIVER 71 2wd blazer leaks EVERYWHERE rusty starts and drives everytime,DAILY DRIVE LOOKING FOR 38-39FORD coupe

02-18-2002, 07:47 PM	#5
rico_bob "Treasure the Ride" Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Mid Michigan, Harrison Michigan, USA Posts: 682	Quickest way is to get a sharp metal chisel, a big ball peen hammer, and a pair of heavy leather gloves (you will smack your hand at least once!) And place the chisel right up next to the frame rail at the edge of the rivets. Give it a good sharp rap, and you will be surprised how easy they cut off! You also will need a 1/4 to 3/8 inch drift pin to knock out the rivets. It is clean; plus you won't end up with any grinder marks or whoops! holes from the torch! BEEN THERE, DONE THIS, AND IT WORKS! ricobob ------------------ If you think you can you're right. If you think you can't you're still right. Current project: 1957 Chevy Short Wheel Base Stepside, with '58 GMC Big Window Cab, w/327 camel heads, 350 TH Automatic, tilt wheel, and thinking of doing a IFS. __________________ If you think you can you're right. If you think you can't you're still right. Trucks: '56 SWB; '57 SWB; '63 C-10 Current projects: 1963 Long Fleetside for the wife! '56 for the daughter. Visit us at: www.ricos-rods-and-relics.com

02-19-2002, 07:04 AM	#6
gchemist BAD BOW-Silverado XST Join Date: May 2000 Location: Senior Member from Austin, TX Posts: 6,431	I agree with rico_bob. I used the same method on my truck when I lowered it. One good whack and the rivet heads come right off!!! Easier than the other methods mentioned. ------------------ Gerardo 1983 Custom Truck TX Plates: "BAD BOW" http://www.geocities.com/abetterchemist/ __________________ Gerardo a.k.a. Mad Chemist Silverado XST videos

02-19-2002, 11:40 AM	#7
ColinOpseth Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Los Angeles, CA Posts: 283	the same concept works for when you lose the wheel locks on your car (minus the drift pin (punch) step) i agree with the previous two posters, knock the head off the rivet and then punch out the rivet ------------------ Webmaster: www.GMPerformance.org __________________ Webmaster: www.h-body.org

02-19-2002, 12:02 PM	#8
johnymac Registered User Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Dover, NH USA Posts: 194	I want to thank everyone for the ideas. I am going to buy the chisel and punch tonight. If that fails, will buy the grinder this weekend. Really appreciate the info!

02-21-2002, 04:36 PM	#9
imaindianoutlaw GMC SHORT FLEET F/S Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: SOUTH WILLIAMSPORT PENNSYLVANNIA Posts: 2,117	have fun grinding ------------------ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ imaindianoutlaw@yahoo.com REFRIGERATION TECH FOR SALE 1963 Pontiac Tempest 1965 Pontiac GTO 1956 Pontiac 2 dr Charles W. Hein S.Williamsport PA __________________ CHARLES WADE HEIN HVACR FOREMAN. LEWISBURG U.S.P.

02-22-2002, 03:20 PM	#10
rustfree Registered User Join Date: May 2001 Location: Warren, OR , USA Posts: 166	hope I'm not to late with this, but for what it's worth...spent a couple hours under my truck last night removing the stock upper shock brackets and if you find as little room under there as I did laying on your back trying to swing a hammer/chisel or run a grinder then I think you'll find the easiest method to removed the rivets is to center punch them and work your way up with drill bits until you can punch out the rivet shank. It worked for me anyway. ------------------ 72 swb cheyenne super 350/350 69 cst20 BB longhorn __________________ 72 swb cheyenne super 350/350 69 cst20 BB longhorn Warren, OR



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