Ballast Resistor vs. Resistor Wire - 67 250

[67farmtruck]

=Can't be the points or condensor, can it? I have super low voltage at the + wire to my coil when it's disconnected from the coil. Points and condensor aren't even in that circuit, are they?

Seems like it must be either the ignition wiring or the switch. So I can run a wire from the unfused spot on the panel to the + on the coil with a ceramic ballast inline to bypass my wiring harness?

Appreciate all the insight and knowledge of you all.

[HO455]

Originally Posted by 67farmtruck

=Can't be the points or condensor, can it? I have super low voltage at the + wire to my coil when it's disconnected from the coil. Points and condensor aren't even in that circuit, are they?

Seems like it must be either the ignition wiring or the switch. So I can run a wire from the unfused spot on the panel to the + on the coil with a ceramic ballast inline to bypass my wiring harness?

Appreciate all the insight and knowledge of you all.

Yes you can by pass the factory wiring that way. You will need to put a switch in so you can shut the engine off and de-energize the coil when parked. Be sure you tape off or otherwise insulate and secure the factory wire to the coil so it won't short out.

[Gmc.guy]

I had the same symptoms with my 74. I had pertronix and hei in this truck but I like to keep the points in a 6 cyl I found my resistor wire exposed and corroded in a few places. I replaced the resistor wire right from the bulkhead with a 14 or 12 I think and run to a ceramic resistor on the firewall. Also wired to the starter like stock. Definitely starts and idles way better. It was a Chrysler application and I want to say 1.6 or 1.8 ohm. It was 12$ compared to 6-12$ a foot for the resistor wire for 6 or 8 feet.