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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Sonoma County California
Posts: 83
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Rear Lights Re-Wiring!
I have a 1970 GMC C2500 Long bed. I am trying to replace all of the wiring from the plug on the frame near the end of the bed to all of the rear lights.
I have been shopping here..... http://www.classicindustries.com/sho...t%20Wiring&p=2 Is there any wiring difference in wiring configuration between a Chevy Panel/Suburban and a Fleetside? Wiring for a Fleetside is $99.99. Wiring for the Chevy Panel/Suburban is $29.99 and $129.99. And I cannot tell if it is just bare wires or it has the connections on each end for the specific light bulbs. Has anyone else re-wired there lights and what did you use? |
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#2 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,125
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Re: Rear Lights Re-Wiring!
The Suburban wiring is very different from the truck wiring. The Suburban rear harness goes up the A pillar and back along the top of the window frames. Then down inside the back pillars to underneath the cabin. The harness also contains the fuel guage wires. It starts at a connector (8 pin I believe) that is part of the Suburban/Panel only under dash harness. I believe that $129 is the complete harness and the other ones are the individual parts. I have a 67 so I don't have any knowledge of the marker light wiring but there are several connectors that break the harness in to sub harness's
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Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. ![]() RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 Last edited by HO455; 04-23-2017 at 08:57 PM. |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Central Coast, CA
Posts: 500
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Re: Rear Lights Re-Wiring!
Having done this on my '70 longbed; I would recommend removing your existing entire rear light harness first; since after all you are going to need to do this step anyway whether you buy a new harness or not.
It isn't too difficult; the worst thing is having all the debris rain down on you while you unthread the harness from all of it's twists and turns; so a dust mask and safety glasses (actually goggles!) and maybe even disposable painter's coveralls will help for the removal. I was able to salvage my existing rear light harness although I did need to re-splice and solder and cover a few areas with double layers of heat shrink where the previous owner had spliced in a trailer connector. I found quite a few bare wires around that area where over the years various trailer harnesses had been spliced in. It was quite a bit of work cleaning and inspecting the harness and fixing the breaks though - so you might be happier to just get a new one. $100 sounds about right. Check AAW's website because their PDF price list shows all the options; it will answer your question about the Burb. I removed and replaced all the non-adhesive wrap; you can order it by the roll from American Autowire and I think The Truck Shop and Brothers..maybe LMC Don't try and substitute the sticky stuff.. |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Sonoma County California
Posts: 83
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Re: Rear Lights Re-Wiring!
Yea, someone has spliced a trailer light connector to the rear lights and then removed and very poorly soldered it together. Then cut into it again for a two-bulb license plate light set up.
I tried to fix it but when bending the wires the insulation just cracks and breaks off. It looks like Classic Industries has alot of that stuff and it is from American Autowire. |
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