Newb Transmission Advice

[trailcarnage]

While searching around for the best , economical solution for controlling a 4L80E, I came across the Microsquirt controller. I actually found a used one with harness for $250. Anybody around here running this setup? It has some very good reviews but I am wondering how hard it is to tune.

[trailcarnage]

Well this whole investigation took a left turn on me. While searching for a transmission I happened upon one with a LT1 included along with all wiring, accessories, ECM, etc... I think that there is serious possibility of being able to afford to drive this bad boy with that power plant. It also happens that a good friend wants to out a 454 in his boy's 66 C10 so I figure that I have that one sold.

I will fire up a build up thread next after I pick up the engine.

[MARKDTN]

Since you are wanting a cruiser and not a tow rig, that is an excellent choice. But be aware that an LT1 is it's own beast in a few ways. You need all the accessories, nothing interchanges with early small-block as far as accessories. The a/c compressor is low on some applications and can interfere with the frame. Opti-sparks can be an issue. '95 up are better than early. I would put a new Opti and water pump on it while it was out. Mounts and exhaust are same as small-block so that is nice. Good luck with it. I have Tuned-Port in my '83 K20 and I love it.

[weq92f]

+1 regarding the Opti-Spark. Moisture kills them quickly, even the vented ones. Over 125k very hard miles driving the LT1 with a 6sp manual to posi, I went through 4 Opti-Sparks. Other than that and some leaky injectors, the engine was trouble free and still runs hard today. Loads of torque and plenty of top end.

Post up some pics when you get it.

-klb

[trailcarnage]

Originally Posted by MARKDTN

Since you are wanting a cruiser and not a tow rig, that is an excellent choice. But be aware that an LT1 is it's own beast in a few ways. You need all the accessories, nothing interchanges with early small-block as far as accessories. The a/c compressor is low on some applications and can interfere with the frame. Opti-sparks can be an issue. '95 up are better than early. I would put a new Opti and water pump on it while it was out. Mounts and exhaust are same as small-block so that is nice. Good luck with it. I have Tuned-Port in my '83 K20 and I love it.

This one is out of a '94 Z28 with 89k. The owner pulled it out as a father-son rebuild project when he cam upon a good deal on a LS so decided to change direction.

It has a new water pump, starter and MSD ignition. It also comes with all accessories, engine harness and ECU. They have it torn down to the heads so I figure that I should remove them and replace the head gaskets since I am that far.

My biggest apprehension about this project is hacking up the harness and getting it right the first time

Another bonus is the 4L60E that comes with it only has 34k since it was rebuilt.

[weq92f]

Originally Posted by trailcarnage

This one is out of a '94 Z28 with 89k.

Couple things... The Opti is not vented, the A/C compressor is down low on passenger side. Engine was rated at 275HP but I believe that number was low. It should have a single belt drive system as well.

This should push your truck around just fine!

-klb

[MARKDTN]

I wouldn't pull heads just because, but whatever. That is just me.

When you say MSD ignition is this set up as coil-on-plug like an LS in which case the Opti is just a trigger? That is a neat setup, but a bit overkill for a street engine. Won't hurt anything though. Sounds fun.

[trailcarnage]

Originally Posted by MARKDTN

I wouldn't pull heads just because, but whatever. That is just me.

When you say MSD ignition is this set up as coil-on-plug like an LS in which case the Opti is just a trigger? That is a neat setup, but a bit overkill for a street engine. Won't hurt anything though. Sounds fun.

The only reason that Ives's going to pull the heads is that they are aluminum, dissimilar to the block. I was under the impression that they are doomed to failure are some point in their life so I would head it off. Are they more durable than my impression?

The MSD appear to be a opti-spark to me in an MSD wrapper.

[weq92f]

Nice. I would not mess with it. If the oil is good and the coolant looks good ( no gasket issue or cracks ), leave em on there! My LT1 never had them off and it was a 1994 as well. 134k miles now and still solid.

-klb

[trailcarnage]

Originally Posted by weq92f

Nice. I would not mess with it. If the oil is good and the coolant looks good ( no gasket issue or cracks ), leave em on there! My LT1 never had them off and it was a 1994 as well. 134k miles now and still solid.

-klb

I like that advice! That save me on head bolts too! This may turn out to be a good investment afterall.

[trailcarnage]

So, the LT made it home yesterday along with a couple of 4L60's. $700 with all accessories, harness and ECM. I'm totally stoked. Tomorrow I plan to start cleaning it up and reassembling

[trailcarnage]

And I recieved a text from the PO of the LT1. He wanted to be sure that I was aware that he had removed one of the heads to inspect the cylinders the night before I picked it up. I guess that I am tearing it down further than I wanted.

[trailcarnage]

I figure that it is time to post a little update and ask a few more questions.

Now that the weather has warmed enough to work in the shop, I am ready to start tear-down on the LT1 next weekend.

I have made the decision to go with stick shift vs. automatic. I also want to maintain good fuel economy so I have been shopping for a OD manual. I really want a T56 but can't bear to pay half of what I did for the entire truck so I am going with a NP440/A833/MY16 4-speed from a early-80s truck which leads me to my questions:

1) As the bell housing from this trans was mounted to a 305, is it fair to assume that it will mount to the LT1?

2) For the clutch/flywheel combo, I assume that I would use the flywheel for the vehicle that the LT1 came from and the clutch that the trans came from. Is that sound?

I am already aware of the strength concern about this transmission choice so I don't need to be informed.

[Rickysnickers]

How much power is that engine making? You might be able to get a T-5 for it. Those are considerably less expensive than a T-56.

[Bigdav160]

IIRC, the LT1/T56 used a pull type hydraulic clutch. It would not be my choice for your retrofit. I think the clutch/bell housing for the A883 should do the trick.

[trailcarnage]

Originally Posted by Rickysnickers

How much power is that engine making? You might be able to get a T-5 for it. Those are considerably less expensive than a T-56.

The Camaro that it came from is advertised at 275HP/325ft-lbs.

I have been looking for a T5 but am coming up dry unless I was to spend a pile of cash and then I need to relocate the shifter. I ended picking up the A833 today for $150.

[jocko]

I think a T5 would be a bit weak for your setup. Good price on the A833. What made you change your mind to a stick? Pedals, etc flywheel, etc will all affect end cost. (but there were plenty of extraneous costs with the auto swaps too)

[trailcarnage]

Jocko,

I good buddy and long time builder has been in my ear saying that hot rods have three pedals Plus, I think that manuals are more fun to drive.

The A833 was a pretty good deal as it came with bell housing and shifter. Unfortunately, the PO misplaced the clutch fork so I have a little research to do there. He did let me know that a good friend of his has a mountain of parts for this vintage C10 so I am going to contact him to see if I can get a manual pedal set and steering column.

The flywheel and clutch are my next purchases and are pretty reasonable.

[DBK81]

That's a great deal on that power plant, nice find.

[trailcarnage]

I finally tore down the engine for inspection today. All mains and crank bearings look great. The clearance on all of then was and even to heavy 0.002".

I did find that the oil pick up strainer was no longer there and the windage plate was hanging on by a thread. Other than that the only other piece to be replaced is the water pump drive shaft.