When you fail to plan you plan to fail

[Pinchecharlie]

Ok so I just jumped right in the deep end...
I ordered 2.5 dropped spindles (arrived)
3 inch drop springs (waiting)
Swaped 73-87 control arms and brakes (waiting for bushings)

Now I read you can't adjust camber with the stock a arms with this much drop?
Also that it may be dangerously low and grab manhole covers and what not?
Before I carry in, I wanted to ask if this combo is worth installing. I don't have any money in the control arms yet sI I could buy tubular uppers if they won't align? Also I don't think the 73-87 upper shafts are compatible with the 65 mounting studs and wonder if I can get new ones in without pulling the motor? Leaped before I looked! Any one with a similar experience help would be appreciated! Thanks Charlie

[scoot_mcgrute]

Totally worth installing, gives it a real aggressive stance and it's very drivable. I still have a couple alignment shims to pull out if needed but you're really only doing a 3" drop on the suspension so I don't see any issues getting it aligned at all.

I paired the 5.5" front drop with a 7" rear drop and absolutely love it

[Pinchecharlie]

Yeah I love your truck. I was just going through your build thread earlier. So 2.5 dropped spindles +3 inch dropped springs in front = 3 inch drop? I wish that I wasn't so punch drunk (former boxer with less than stellar record)
How high off the ground are your lower control arms?
I'll finish your build soon. You used a complete crossmember swap and iam trying to swap into old crossmember. I wish I had used the crossmember too but didn't want to pull everything. I guess I'll drive out the upper mount bolts/studs and replace with the 73-87 style. Can't imagine I can just get the convex washers off on the truck can I? Thanks I really like your truck and actually was trying to emulate it lol!

[raggedjim]

No, you will still get 5.5 total drop but the suspension geometry will only change with the drop springs. The spindles will not change the geometry of the suspension.

I'm almost positive the 73 up arms will fit on the 65 crossmember studs, but I haven't had a 65 in years.

I see 5.5 drops the way you are doing more than any other and most have no problems. It does bring the frame and lower a-arm closer to the asphalt, but good springs and shocks should keep them off the road except in the most extreme situations (really rough railroad tracks, etc.)

Good luck, Rg

[Pinchecharlie]

Just worried I'll run out of mounting stud/bolt when it's shimmed for excessive camber? The 65 has a shorter stud and a different washer set up that uses a flat control arm shaft. The 73-87 had a beveled control arm shaft? Iam attaching pictures so you can see. Ism sure it's either" just fine" or " you ran out of bolt". Just thought it would be easier to change while it's apart lol! Thanks

[PGSigns]

When I did mine I swapped the studs for a new set of 73 and up and used all the washers and shims from the donor. That gave a bit longer stud and nice clean threads.
Jimmy

[Pinchecharlie]

Originally Posted by PGSigns

When I did mine I swapped the studs for a new set of 73 and up and used all the washers and shims from the donor. That gave a bit longer stud and nice clean threads.
Jimmy

how much drama is it to get them in and out? i cant get a hammer on the inside fame rail with motor in. or you think i could pull them through with a the threads/nut and a sleevy kinda thing, hum... iam tourchless for awhile and think red hot is probably in order? thanks for the help everyone, i am a tireless skeptic and second guesser!

[scoot_mcgrute]

Originally Posted by Pinchecharlie

Yeah I love your truck. I was just going through your build thread earlier. So 2.5 dropped spindles +3 inch dropped springs in front = 3 inch drop? I wish that I wasn't so punch drunk (former boxer with less than stellar record)
How high off the ground are your lower control arms?
I'll finish your build soon. You used a complete crossmember swap and iam trying to swap into old crossmember. I wish I had used the crossmember too but didn't want to pull everything. I guess I'll drive out the upper mount bolts/studs and replace with the 73-87 style. Can't imagine I can just get the convex washers off on the truck can I? Thanks I really like your truck and actually was trying to emulate it lol!

Thanks man!

Like stated above, you will get 5.5" of drop but the drop spindles simply move the pin up on the spindle so they don't affect the suspension or alignment at all.

I'll have to get a measurement for the control arms here shortly, it's currently on jack stands while I'm swapping the LS in it but I did have to buy a new jack to get under them so I'm guessing they are 3.5-4" off the ground.

I still have all the original 66 control arms and crossmember, I just added the CPP disc brake kit to my setup which gave me the 73-87 ball joints on the factory 66 control arms. You may need a couple other components to hook your steering and such up depending on what year the spindles are for.

I'm always down for talking trucks and helping out where I can

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by Pinchecharlie

how much drama is it to get them in and out? i cant get a hammer on the inside fame rail with motor in. or you think i could pull them through with a the threads/nut and a sleevy kinda thing, hum... iam tourchless for awhile and think red hot is probably in order? thanks for the help everyone, i am a tireless skeptic and second guesser!

If you want to change the studs, they push through the clearance holes in the frame rails to get them out, then to seat the new ones, Just stack up some flat washers and use a 1/2-20 nut to pull them into place. No need to get a hammer in between the engine and the frame rail.