Mating power booster to pedal??

[MASTERBrian]

I've seen a lot of the threads regarding these disc/power brake conversions, so not really looking for that. I have the discs done, I have most of the brake lines replaced, the last step is mating the booster to the brake pedal, but I can't decide which route to take, so looking for some input.

I have captain fabs bracket, I also purchased on a '90 c1500 dual 9" diaphragm booster and master with a ssbc proportioning valve.

I think the best route to go is to cut the heim end off the booster and weld a 7/16-20(?) Bolt to it so I can just use my factory heim end and connect to pedal that way. I believe this is what others are also doing. My question really is, does the brake pedal push rod need to come out of the booster to weld it, or cam it be welded while still in booster? If I'm not mistaken the entire booster has to come apart to remove these push rods so that seems like bad idea. If I'm also not mistaken there are seals inside that I'd imagine you don't want to get too hot, so how are you guys welding these?

I've also thought about all thread and a coupling nut and threading, but even though I've chased lots of threads I'm not sure I've ever really used a die to create a threaded rod and worry if I screw up the threads I'm hosed.

My favorite is the build where the op used a 2nd pedal bracket to create a 2nd pivot for the booster, but I'm not sure I can find one of these at a salvage near me.

Btw....I'm on a 1960 c-10. I'm taking my tank to welder tomorrow to get fill neck resoldered, so I'll ask him about welding as well. I thought about getting myself, but my welding skills aren't perfect and I don't want to overheat the rod and damage my booster.

[MASTERBrian]

I guess that first pic doesn't show my booster rod and I need to flip the proportioning valve around.

[dennislbrooks]

I have done what you ask on a hydroboost and a 79 vaccuum booster. If mounting the vaccuum canister against the firewall - maybe you are not -- I take you are after approx 8.75 inch in length on the rod or whatever your appliction calls for. Asking your welder about it is good. I used a piece of steel tubing of correct inside diameter -- drill tubing out if necessary. I welded a nut to the pedal end for adjustment and threaded the eye end of the cut rod allowing for clearance on the pedal arm for swing and addition of a lock nut. The booster side was welded to the inserted into tubing of the cut off side of rod. To minimize heat, mig weld a portion, let cool, turn rod and weld. A damp rag on the booster side will minimize heat to the internal rubber. Of course remove boot before welding and put back on after.

You will need to place a lowered attachment hole in the brake arm --- about 3/4 or an inch.

This is my method

Bring it over -- lol.

[PGSigns]

If you go to the FAQ section in the 60 to 66 this is covered well. A little cutting and threading and your old rod will mate to the new one and be adjustable. I also redrilled my brake pedal and went an inch lower.
Jimmy

[MASTERBrian]

I have the rod fabricated and installed. I wasn't aware of needing to go drill lower hole on pedal. Right now it feels good seems to travel correctly, but I have not added any fluid to system.

I'm using the captain fab bracket. My understanding is his puts the booster at correct angle for the pedal....maybe I miss understood that. I'm guessing to verify, I just need to visualize a straight line from booster rod.

My method was, I cut the end of booster rod and ran a 3/8 die down that rod. I then bought a clevis with an adjustable rod. I cut that rod to length and ran the same die down the other end of this rod. I then ran a coupling nut to join to the booster rod. I put a nut on each end of coupler, to lock it in place and this I can adjust length at either of these points. I also put a jamb nut on the threads going into the clevis, that's my main adjustment.