JunkYard Power Disc Conversion

[grayw0lf]

I was thinking of putting front spindles from a 71+ on my '70 C-10. I would also like to covert to power brakes. I was wondering if anyone out there could give me advice.

I am also wondering which brake lines would have to be changd out. For the power brakes, I am guessing that I could get away w/ only changing the lines from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve. Comments?

Would I have to replace any lines from the proportioning valve to the spindles?

Thanks,

John (New to restorations)

[Putter]

You can go to the FAQ section, or do a search for something like 'conversion' or 'brake conversion' or something of the sort. Lots of info on that ranging from using '73 up to using 1988 stuff. Hope that helps a little.

[swdobbs]

I swapped in a 1987 crossmember and found out that my 1970 c-10 frame already had provisions for relocating the brake lines (thru frame connections) to match the later crossmember.

The swap entailed dropping old drum crossmember, using the existing holes to locate new member and drilling 2 new mounting holes. I had a new steering box put in and I think a stand off bracket had to be made for that. I've been told that may not have been necessary.

I didn't go with power brakes. I firmly believe the whole proportioning valve requirement to combat some mysterious reserve line pressure for drum brakes is a myth. I have seen at least a dozen of this exact manual brake setup in my area and no one has ever had any problems. My truck coasts fine with no drag, it stops straight, the crossmember had new ball joints, tie rod ends and brakes before I got it.

I should have done this swap years ago.

[boraxman]

I just did this swap. I used 71-2 spindles. 1.25" rotors and wheel bearings commonly found on 72-87 c-10. Make sure you use 72 calipers, later ones may also work. You will need 71-72 master cyl/booster, prop valve with the peddle rod. You will need to change upper and lower ball joints to 71-2. Also on the tie rods you will need 71-2 outer and the original outer will become the new inner, to do this you will need a custom coupler availibe from vendors on the board. The original brake lines will either need adapters or updated to fit the the prop valve.


Its not all that bad of a job but either have all the parts ready or buy a kit. Pesonally If I was going to do it again I would buy a kit. It will cost more but save trips to the parts store, junk-yard and machine shop.

If you or anyone has questions about this swap PM me.