Rebuild advice

[Haru]

So, I want to rebuild the 400 big block or at least I think I do and the TH400 transmission. Nothing insane but maybe 450 HP or so. The other option would be to throw another tranny and engine from something newer but I kind of want to keep #'s together.

I was thinking EFI but I don't know where to start. I assume a top end kit and some pistons, get the block to a machine shop to be checked out and cleaned up. Any suggestions on heads/top end kit, EFI and what to do to the transmission and perhaps the rear end?

I should add on a budget and I'd like to drive it often and last a long while

[D-rock1981]

whats your budget?

[terry b]

I don't think our trucks have matching numbers per say.

[Haru]

Originally Posted by D-rock1981

whats your budget?

Well, that part isn't set in stone just yet and not entirely sure what I'm looking at cost wise. 5k ish but spending less would be ideal but also not looking at cheap (cruddy) parts/brands). Or am I dreaming at this point

[truckster]

I wouldn't do all that work on the top end without making sure the bottom end is solid first.

[custom10nut]

Advice 101:
Don't go crazy on the cam, though it sounds cool, big cams will cause headaches
If this is the first rebuild, go with the least amount of bore needed to get rid of the lip.
Talk to the machinist, and tell him how you plan to use the truck.
Take the heads to the same guy to be surfaced.
At least have your rocker studs pinned, on a mild rebuild, screw ins are not absolutely needed.
Do you plan to assemble it yourself? If so I have some other things I've learned from experience.

[D-rock1981]

5k would work for a stock rebuild (depending on machining prices in your area). double that for any kind of performance build I would say. I would go with a complete package from edelbrock if I were you. They have a lot of engineering behind them and they work. use quality pistons and stock bottom end to save some $$. If it were my truck, I wouldn't bother with the original engine (these trucks will never be true "collectors items" and the original engine doesn't really help with the value) I would go with a modern engine and either a factory fuel injection, or one from megasquirt. Here at my local pull your own parts, I can get a complete engine for 500 bucks, wiring harness is like 20 i think, and a computer is 20. transmission is 250 so for under 1g I can have 2/3 of my drivetrain done. that leaves quite bit of room for performance upgrades.

[demian5]

Built top end will get you power.
Built bottom end will get you piece of mind.

[garyd1961]

Are you dead set on it being a big block? Small blocks and parts are cheaper.

[Haru]

Originally Posted by garyd1961

Are you dead set on it being a big block? Small blocks and parts are cheaper.

I was..until reading these comments. I felt like I should keep the engine/transmission but sounds like it really doesn't matter. Maybe I need to find a low mileage wrecked ZL1 Camaro for cheap lol

[davepl]

I'd throw a larger block at it - 454 or 502 or 540. Displacement is easy torque/power, but getting an honest 450 out of a 396 is going to be tough and make for one skittish engine that sucks to drive on the street. It's -possible- with a roller cam and good heads, but not easy. 375 is pretty typical. 400 is harder. 450 is a reach.

It's much easier with more cubes, and that way you can save your original block too. They're not serialized but they are coded to your application (1970 402 Automatic, for example).

[Mike C]

Big blocks not so popular right now and can be picked up relatively inexpensively. What's wrong with the motor now? If the bore isn't barreled or tapered, you might be able to hone and put rings in it. Polish the crank and have the heads rebuilt you'd be in it for less than $2k.

BUT, 450 hp talk changes that conversation dramatically. I just put a 427 together for my '69. I rebuilt the stock heads with new valves, ponied up for a Comp Hydraulic roller, used Scat rods instead of rebuilding the stockers and a rebuild kit from Summit that had the L2300F forged pistons.

$2500 in cam and heads. $1000 in rods on the pistons, vat, bore, etc. $1000 for the rebuild kit and the rods. Call it $4500 in the long block. $300 for an intake, $600 for a carb, $200 for an oil pan, $150 for a distributor with melonized gear. $200 for SFI balance, $50 SFI flywheel.Call it $5900 + incidentals. My "budget" was $4500 and I got it done for $6k-ish. Which is only off about 30% which I consider better than average miss!

You might find a deal with a used motor. I bought another 427 almost identical to the one I build on Craigslist with a Marine hydraulic roller instead of the Nitrous hydraulic roller. It has damaged bearings but don't look spun. I gave $900 for it without distributor or carb. And it will need an oil pan because the marine one won't work in a truck AND it's tweaked.

If it all checks out (and like a collision there is always hidden damage) I'll have it going for $2k or a bargain compared to the first one. Or it will have to come completely apart and I know what that costs...

Better yet, find a running/driving Suburban with TH400 and 454 that you know is in good conditions and swap into your truck. That will be way cheaper in the long run. Subs aren't usually driven as hard as trucks, especially duallys where the 454 is most common.

This is where LS swap talks comes in, because you can buy a complete running truck for $4k and get OD and FI.

[franken]

EFI on a budget. Won't happen.
A factory big block in one of these trucks is to be treasured, if not valued. Maybe you should clean it up or let it go to someone who'll treasure it.
Snag an SBC truck, drop an LS (not as easy as they say) in and rock.

Or, clean up the old beast, fix the brakes, steering, suspension, change all (more than you think) fluids, and do some cosmetics to the interior. That alone is what $1500-2k?

Try fixing it a bit at a time while driving it and enjoying the fixes.

[BCOWANWHEELS]

its a 402, keep it stock

[D-rock1981]

Originally Posted by franken

EFI on a budget. Won't happen.
A factory big block in one of these trucks is to be treasured, if not valued. Maybe you should clean it up or let it go to someone who'll treasure it.
Snag an SBC truck, drop an LS (not as easy as they say) in and rock.

Or, clean up the old beast, fix the brakes, steering, suspension, change all (more than you think) fluids, and do some cosmetics to the interior. That alone is what $1500-2k?

Try fixing it a bit at a time while driving it and enjoying the fixes.

What?!?!?!? EFI on a budget is really easy. I had less then 500 bucks into my first efi build, 100 bucks for a complete system from a 98 chevy truck a guy was parting out. another 300 for pump and regulator, and about 50 bucks in misc lines and fittings. Might be a little harder finding one off a big block, but there out there and its very doable. Even now that I'm building multiport setups the cost isn't all that bad if you build it from scratch using megasquirt.

[un4gvn!]

I took my 396 to the machine shop and told him to rebuild it. I bought a set of .60 over Wiseco pistons off the internet a guy had custom made for his 396. The shop cut the crank .10 .10 and polished and balanced it. Resized the rods and installed the pistons. The block was completely gone over. Heads were enlarged with the bigger stainless steel valves. He started putting the engine together and there was a problem. At tdc, the pistons were .250 below the deck. Now what. We never thought of where the pin was located on the pistons. The machinist said about using 454 parts. He had an Eagle crank and rods laying around someone didn't want. With a .60 bore and 454 stroke, the cubes came out to be 440. If I didn't have to pay for the second balancing, The total came to $3,300. Airgap intake, Quikfuel carb, MSD, Lunati Bracket Master cam kit, and of course Hooker headers, and a few odds and ends. I had $5,500 in this motor. I had it dyno and it made 522 hp and 541 pounds of torqe. This 3,900 pound long bed C10 ran low 12,s all day. The machine shop told me to put better heads on it and really have some fun. The big block is a lot of fun. We show this truck also. Street and strip is the ticket.

[Haru]

Engine runs, or so I was told and rebuilt at some point. I'l need to get the oil pan on it and see..Maybe this weekend. Thanks all for the input, I'll most likely keep whats in it and go from there. Now I need to find a local transmission shop. Well, if it is indeed dead as the previous owner stated.

[62chevydad]

looking for a transfer case for 1962 1/2 ton 4x4

[GASoline71]

Originally Posted by BCOWANWHEELS

its a 402, keep it stock

Yup.

I was wondering what a 400 Big Block was...

Gary

[demian5]

Originally Posted by 62chevydad

looking for a transfer case for 1962 1/2 ton 4x4

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