502 in my 63 frame.. what kind of headers!?

[1942]

Hei, can someone give me a link to a set off headers that will fit in my 63 frame? dosent matter if the motor mounts has to be modified/changed....

I have tried 2 different headers now ( both 2" primary ) and both of the are to wide on the top of the frame...

I guees i i can use 67-72 or 73-87 BBC headers but i cant find any headers with ca 2 or 2-1/16" primary tube diameter and 3.5 Collector..


hers a picture!

Look like they will fit, but not on the other side.....

After the picture was taken i`ve also cutted and modify the firewall a little bit for better claerence...



Best regards from norway !

[1963c-10]

Why not just trim the top of the frame in 1/2" to allow clearance?

[66farmer]

I used Headmen They fit realy well. Take a look at my build (farmers big block)
If you need it I can dig up the part number.

[Captainfab]

Hei Ståle

You will have to trim a little from the top flange of the frame, aproximately 3/4" to 1" (20-25mm) I typically use a '73-'87 frame as a reference for the frame trimming. I have also used the '73-'87 headers from Hedman, #69110. Although those have 1-3/4" primaries. In my opinion, those should flow well enough for a 502 unless it is quite radical.

I have heard that big block Chevelle headers will fit, but I don't know what modifications are necessary. Those will not work if you still have the bellhousing crossmember in place. The Chevelle headers are available in 2"+ primaries.

[1942]

Okey, thanks for helping! i will order new headers sonn.

I have cutted a little bit in the frame...But in norway its il leagel to cutt in the frame. and if they know about some thing who is not leagel, they will take the licens plates ( ! ) if you will change somthing on the car you have to apply to the authorities

[1942]

Originally Posted by 66farmer

I used Headmen They fit realy well. Take a look at my build (farmers big block)
If you need it I can dig up the part number.

Yes the partnumber will help me alot.

[Captainfab]

To my knowledge, there are not any big block headers that will fit without trimming the frame. If you make nice smooth flowing cuts and sand them nicely and paint, do you think they will know? Is it much trouble to apply to the authorities? Would it be helpful if I sent you some pictures?

Originally Posted by 1942

Okey, thanks for helping! i will order new headers sonn.

I have cutted a little bit in the frame...But in norway its il leagel to cutt in the frame. and if they know about some thing who is not leagel, they will take the licens plates ( ! ) if you will change somthing on the car you have to apply to the authorities

[davem9497]

Try the Sanderson C6. They worked for my 1965 with a 454

[Captainfab]

Did the top flange of the frame need to be trimmed at all?

Originally Posted by davem9497

Try the Sanderson C6. They worked for my 1965 with a 454

[norust]

Unrelated to your topic, but I got a tip on 502 blocks the other day-

On the 502, for heat issues, or to not have as much of an issue , don't connect the short hose that goes from the from of the intake manifold to the top of the water pump.

[WOLFMANmike]

if we are talking about the ZZ 502 ? it is a monster its very aggressive yes lol i had one in my old 55 belair ... here are some tips for you .. besides the water pump hose one first lets address your question .. for my zz 502 i had https://shop.dougsheaders.com/ build me a custom set of headers for my engine and the chassis of my 55 .. now im not going to lie its not cheap BUT the zz 502 NEEDS to breathe for max performance and HP so i highly recommend calling them and talking to them about your needs you will be very happy you did trust me on this ... next again breathing again very important so the best exhaust size for your zz 502 is 3'' NO smaller . smaller greatly reduces the HP and TQ ... now that we have addressed the question you asked .. her are some big tips as well # 1 change intake manifold to a Edlebrock RPM Air Gap for this engine its a must also change the carb to a performance 850 cfm carb ... this means DO not use a Edlebrock carb i recommend a Quick fuel 850 cfm carb or for a bit cheaper Proform 850 cfm both being a double pumper not a vac secondary carb .. there is no need to change camshaft the cam in the zz502 is great ! its very very thumpy and very responsive ... with the stock aluminum heads it comes with its a great match up the heads are designed after the Fast burn style heads . they flow great ... next is ignition dump the stock HEI it comes with .. and go to a MSD PRO billet distributor with a good digital box from MSD like the Digital8 .. all of these things really woke up a sleeping Monster its was day and night difference driving the car the max RPM of these engines are truly like it says 5800 RPM but while that don't seem like much lol let me say you are pushed back into the seat firmly and swiftly with the biggest smile you have ever had in your life . my 55 was a full metal car with a roll cage and still all my goodies on it . and it would eat Z06 vetts all day long on the street lol ( without bottle ) never did make it to the track but i did also have on hand a big 250 HP shot of NOS ready ready for if i ever needed it on the car . yes the engine will take a big 250 shot no problem .. anyway with all this stuff done i got her on the dyno and she made on motor only 540 HP and 600 TQ to the Tires i still hate my self for selling that car lol but that's a long sad story lol ... hope you enjoy your 502 hope i gave you some good info . and if this is your 1st Big Block ? lol you will never want to go back lol . its addicting

['63GENIII]

Thorley Tri Y headers for 73 and up on my '63. Small half moon notch on top rail of frame. PN # 304 y I think? They have smaller primaries (1-7/8 or 2") but the 454 responds really well to them. Very streetable. Really thick tubing and flanges.

[davem9497]

Hi Captain Fab,
To put the 454 into my 1965 we did not cut any of the frame at all, we took a more difficult but yet better process as we modified the engine mounts leaving the frame intact
We had to
- heat up and bang in the firewall to recess it for the valve covers, then made it look symmetrical on both sides so it looked like it came from the factory that way
- cut a portion of the top of the engine mounts and we welded in a half section of pipe to follow the contour of the header pipe as it went basically thru the top inch of the motor mount
- the driver side was more involved but the passenger side also required a small section of pipe
I bought your power brake booster and power steering adapter, great products.

[contagious102]

I used A set of hooker headers for a 71 chevelle big block,Then do not hang way down like most truck headers ,but you will have to use a tubular drop cross member for the transmission or the collectors will be to close to the stock trans, cross member. All I had to do was lightly grind the frame around the #3 and cylinder area ,maybe a 1/8". They are long tube headers also. Fit very nice.!!!! Look at page four of my build link at the bottom of the post and you can see how they fit my stock 66 frame .

The Hooker 2455's are known to fit C10's

[davem9497]

I used Sanderson C6 headers on my 454
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