Upgrade / Change / Fix Factory Air? *HELP*

[Stocker]

Guys I am so lost on this, it ain't funny. I have been reading a lot of threads and have only become more confused. Looking for advice from members who have revived their non-working factory A/C systems, or any others familiar with the procedure.

Here's my situation. A/C was working fine several years ago and the compressor's front seal failed, so the freon leaked out. Been dead ever since and I'd like to revive it. It will require new components -- I have been told that everything needs to be replaced. I have also been told I'll need to go with an aftermarket kit, and the firewall will have to be modified. Doesn't sound like what I want to do. Dunno if the stock vents etc can still be used inside the cab, but I hope so. In fact, I'd prefer to keep the basic stock configuration, in the cab and under the hood, even though the compressor and other parts will look somewhat different.

Any help & advice is much appreciated. Thanks, guys.

[leddzepp]

New A10 replacement compressor, drier/receiver, expansion valve. Only parts you should need. I'm reviving the factory AC on my 68 right now. Just bought the whole kit from autozone. Even included mineral oil which is used with r12. I've done factory AC several times and I recommend staying with r12 as the system was designed for.

[Stocker]

THANK YOU!! I have not looked for R12 yet, I heard it was priced through the roof after R134a was introduced, and have also heard it is still available and prices have come down due to decreased demand.

[FirstOwner69]

I stayed with R12. I found a rebuilt A6 compressor on Craigslist for $50, had my receiver dryer restored by Old Air to original and the condenser tested. I bought all new hoses and found a sealed 30# tank of R12 for $250 which will probably outlive me. My original compressor had failed in the 90s when the truck was routinely started but not driven. The system still had the original Freon in 2010 when I tore the truck apart.

EDIT: If originality isn't important, the A10 compressor may be the way to go.

[Stocker]

Quick question leddzepp, you said A10 compressor, I'm looking at NAPA, A-zone, & O'Reilly and they all show A6 for my '72. A10 is for your '68, my '72 uses A6?

[Stocker]

Originally Posted by FirstOwner69

I stayed with R12. I found a rebuilt A6 compressor on Craigslist for $50, had my receiver dryer restored by Old Air to original and the condenser tested. I bought all new hoses and found a sealed 30# tank of R12 for $250 which will probably outlive me. My original compressor had failed in the 90s when the truck was routinely started but not driven. The system still had the original Freon in 2010 when I tore the truck apart.

EDIT: If originality isn't important, the A10 compressor may be the way to go.

You guys are making me feel better already. I never knew old parts could be tested / restored and then possibly re-used. Could be better than buying new....

I am not locked in to complete originality -- if an A10 is better (and fits without fab work) I'd gladly use it.

[FirstOwner69]

If you don't care if your receiver drier looks original, save some money and buy a new one. Just be sure it is compatible with R12.

[FirstOwner69]

leddzepp has more info on the A10 than I do, but, if I understand correctly, it's an aluminum 10 cylinder replacement for the A6 which mounts to the original brackets.

[Stocker]

Originally Posted by FirstOwner69

If you don't care if your receiver drier looks original, save some money and buy a new one. Just be sure it is compatible with R12.

Thanks -- if it fits & works, looks are secondary on my old workhorse.

[leddzepp]

58098 is the part number for the compressor. It is an aluminum replacement for the oem a6. It is more efficient, lighter weight, and bolts right into the factory mounts and accepts the factory hoses/muffler assembly.

[demian5]

Make sure you go with 134. Cheaper to get.

[leddzepp]

134 will be marginal at best in a factory system, unless you change other expensive components (condenser, evaporater) Going cheaper in this case is not worth it. You charge it once and you are done, it's not like gasoline where you keep filling the tank

[Stocker]

Originally Posted by leddzepp

58098 is the part number for the compressor. It is an aluminum replacement for the oem a6. It is more efficient, lighter weight, and bolts right into the factory mounts and accepts the factory hoses/muffler assembly.

Great info, thanks again! Another question, though I checked that p/n on several sites and they all say R134a. Safe to assume it's R134a compatible but will work with R12 as well?

As I understand it, R134a has smaller molecules than R12 so it can't be used in an older system designed for R12. But R12 is OK in a system designed for R134a. Yes?

[leddzepp]

Use the proper oil and you'll be fine. My kit even came with mineral oil for r-12. Pag oil is for 134.

[1972RedNeck]

Originally Posted by leddzepp

134 will be marginal at best in a factory system, unless you change other expensive components (condenser, evaporater) Going cheaper in this case is not worth it. You charge it once and you are done, it's not like gasoline where you keep filling the tank

Do you think the evaporator would need to be changed? I know the condenser would as the R134 high side pressures are so much higher but since the low side pressures are closer I would think the stock evaporator would work well.

Thoughts?

[Steeveedee]

If you are only cooling the cab of a truck, you might be able to get away with using 134. But you will have to completely flush the system (should be doing this anyway, since the compressor failed?). The condenser and evaporator are the same size as what gets used in a station wagon, with all that extra volume to cool, so the larger evaporator and condenser requirement is up in the air, for me. Personally, I'd use the kit mentioned and use the new R-12 replacement gas. I bought a 30# cylinder of R-12 right before the law changed and you had to have a license, in California. That was quite awhile back. That tank is almost empty, so I'm going to have to find another refrigerant with the same specific heat capacity that doesn't require a bunch of hard parts.

Note- in Australia, they use propane for refrigerant in a lot of vehicles. I think I'll look into it's physical properties, since it is dirt cheap.

[Andy4639]

Orignal air group has a kit for the stock truck to go 134-A and it will freeze your butt off! My 71 has this kit and it's almost all stock except the acumalator and orfice tube. It runs 38* all the time even like today with outside temp at 90*. Yes it's about a $1200.00 kit but after it's installed you want ever say a word about the cost because it is worth every penny. The interior parts are all factory nothing has to be changed and the fire wall is factory too.

Old 305 motor



LS motor installed now but the AC is the same just has the LS compressor.