Jinxy's 69 C10 Short Bed - let the journey begin

[JustToxic]

Builds coming along nicely, I'll start following this build from here.

[Abnav8r]

Great looking build! It looks like your using an aftermarket radiator core support. Where did you get it from, and do you expect any issues with panel fit? My '69 is in a restoration shop and they're estimating way more $ to repair original than an aftermarket one costs, but are cautioning that it could cost more to fit the panels if the pattern isn't spot on. Just wondering what your thoughts are. Your truck is going to be amazing! I wish I had the skills and time to do what you're doing! Hats off!!

[MMcMasters]

Originally Posted by Jinxy81

We put the cab lift we built to work today! It worked out very well. We loaded it up from my dads and trucked it up to my house. We dropped it on the frame and I have adjusted the engine spacing. Now I'm going to install the transmission and position the transmission crossmember to its final resting place.

Man that had to feel good putting the cab on for the first time!! Looks great!

[Jinxy81]

Originally Posted by Abnav8r

Great looking build! It looks like your using an aftermarket radiator core support. Where did you get it from, and do you expect any issues with panel fit? My '69 is in a restoration shop and they're estimating way more $ to repair original than an aftermarket one costs, but are cautioning that it could cost more to fit the panels if the pattern isn't spot on. Just wondering what your thoughts are. Your truck is going to be amazing! I wish I had the skills and time to do what you're doing! Hats off!!

Thank you. I ordered the radiator core support from a place in KY, called Southern Kentucky Classics, its Woodall brand. I need to mock the fenders up and see how it fits with the support and cab and all. The original support needed so much metal work because of rust it just seemed more logical to buy one. However, I did keep the old support just in case. I did have to modify the core support for the 4 row radiator I had to fit. It was basically just trimming a lip out around the bottom so the supports would sit flush.

If I didn't have my dad and friend Barry helping with the metal work I wouldn't be where I'm at!

[Jinxy81]

Originally Posted by MMcMasters

Man that had to feel good putting the cab on for the first time!! Looks great!

yes is it did! Now if I could just get some painters to come out and give me quotes lol. I have been stood up 2-3 times now from local body shops who were to give me quotes. I am really thinking about going outside of the state 4-7 hours away. I hate it, but thats the reality of it around here.

[Jinxy81]

Early this week I started taking the doors apart. I completed one! Thanks to some good threads on this site, it made getting the glass out pretty easy. The old felt was so brittle it just cracked. I used a putty knife to pry it out.



I made the decision to hack up the vintage air plate and fit pieces into the cab itself instead of using the whole plate. Dad got to work on this, as well as cutting some metal to fill some of the factory ac holes in the cab

[swamp rat]

I gotta admit, the idea of welding that whioe plate over the firewall seems like it would be a breeding ground for rust, i think cutting the patches out of it is a better idea too, altho i have never installed the kit..

[Jinxy81]

Continuing to mock some things up. Pretty neat to see the bed, cab, and fenders on. I have a very reputable painter who claims he can take it in a couple of months so we will see.









I also got the hole cut in the bed for the tank.





I have some concerns about tire/wheel clearance. The rear wheels are 295/40/20 on Ridler 20x10. I am hoping its just the axle not being centered. I do not have the track bar installed yet (CPP Bent to clear diff cover).

This is the LR clearance...hardly any



Here is the RR clearance



I have tried moving the bed around but it doesnt help much. I have read that the axles were offset to one side from the factory. I haven't found a good read on how best to center the axle...any help would be appreciated.

[Jason7121]

I'm having exact same issue with mine. I just bought 295 40 20 for rear and almost touch bed. I bought some 1/2" spacers and longer wheel studs but haven't changed studs yet. The 1/2" spacers look like they will work.

[TexasLS1]

I have 295-40/18's on Ridler 18x10 wheels on the rear of mine, and before I did the drop I would get slight rubbing on one side. When I did the drop (5" total using 2" blocks and 3" springs), I also used the CPP bent trac bar. Clearance is tight, but I do have some space between the tire/wheel well. I know you have 20" wheels so yours are taller inside the wheel well and will put the top, inner edge closer to the inside of the well, but hopefully this helps you a little. Mine's a '72, though, and I believe I've read that axle widths are different?

When centering the axle, I jacked the rear up and set the jack stands under the axle tubes, so all the rearend weight was sitting on the springs, basically at ride-height. I then looped a ratchet strap around the frame and the trailing arm, so that as I tightened the strap, it would pull the differential to center. Once I got it to center, I adjusted the CPP bar and bolted it all up. I'll probably need to check it over time as the new springs and trac bar bushings wear in. Hope this helps.

[RRR18]

Following.

[Jinxy81]

FINALLY! I have a painter/body man locked down. I am taking the cab to him this Thursday!!!