Engine Oil Ranking

[FirstOwner69]

I've seen numerous threads here about which oils are OK to use in flat tappet and high performance engines. Most tend to recommend oils with high levels of ZDDP. A friend has a bunch of oils from the late 1990s. This prompted me to search for more info on ZDDP levels in today's oils. The link below, from 2015, provides interesting info on ZDDP oils and wear protection. Obviously, I have no information on the author's credentials.

Comments???

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthre...*Good-read***&

[toolboxchev]

Here are the facts, from my perspective.

Complete top end rebuild 70,000 miles to date. Comp cams break in additive for first 5,000 miles. From there on out I have been running Valvoline VR1 non stop changing the oil every 2,500 miles.

So far so good, when I tear the engine down for the bottom end, which is in the near future will know more.

For what its worth...

The zinc ratings from that website are subject to ones own inspection. Valvoline sds sheets show 1.09 percent ZDDP.

Or check this link: http://content.valvoline.com/pdf/vr1_racing.pdf

Even though I do not work for them or any oil distributor or auto parts store in any way that makes for a heck of a sale.

[cleszkie]

I add a bottle of Lucas Break-in oil (high zinc content) at every 5,000 mile oil change with conventional Castrol oil, and I have a full roller engine! I figure if its beneficial for flat tappet set-ups, it can't hurt a full roller.

[70cst]

Here is some reading for you ...

Which is the best Motor Oil
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ad.php?t=27522

What type of Motor Oil do you use.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=462211

Favorite Motor Oil
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=178372

What Motor Oil do you use
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=231343

[FirstOwner69]

Originally Posted by 70cst

Here is some reading for you ...

Which is the best Motor Oil
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ad.php?t=27522

What type of Motor Oil do you use.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=462211

Favorite Motor Oil
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=178372

What Motor Oil do you use
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=231343

I've read most of those threads, and they've been helpful. However, I always felt I was reading opinions rather than getting hard scientific data. I feel the link I posted is, at minimum, an attempt to provide data in an easy to read format and could help members pick an oil based on the data. This link https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/201...-test-ranking/ from the second thread you referenced appears to provide similar data if a person has the patience to read the whole thing.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by FirstOwner69

I've seen numerous threads here about which oils are OK to use in flat tappet and high performance engines. Most tend to recommend oils with high levels of ZDDP. A friend has a bunch of oils from the late 1990s. This prompted me to search for more info on ZDDP levels in today's oils. The link below, from 2015, provides interesting info on ZDDP oils and wear protection. Obviously, I have no information on the author's credentials.

Comments???

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthre...*Good-read***&

Unless I see this person's credentials (degree level and subject), I'll rely on what the oil manufacturers rate their oils as. I frequent an automotive site where one of the guys just murders Fram oil filters. I've used them for decades on my and my family's vehicles without ever seeing an oil-related failure. I have a Toyota Corolla with well over 200k miles, and a Chevy truck with over 100k miles on the rebuild, and have not had an oil-related failure with them, either. On top of it, I just use NAPA brand oil, and have yet to wipe the cam out on my truck. It's tired, true, but that has to do with over 100k miles (pulling a trailer for about 5k miles of that). It'll still spin the right rear tire on dry pavement when I'm towing the trailer and I get on it, so maybe "tired" is a bit of a stretch. Gotta love that 402's torque.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

I just started using Mobil 1 5W30 full synthetic on my 71. Technically one oil change. I did the same for my 72, but the engine is a bit tired & burns oil, so the next change is the same only 10w40. Couldn't tell you how zinc starved the original engines are. Mobil 1 is declared "900 Nominal Zinc Level, PPM". I have no idea what that means. I can say I used one bottle of ZDDP, read something I didn't like and changed it the next day. There are lots of opinions.

Here's a great study, if nobody has posted it yet. https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/201...-test-ranking/

[Project1970]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Unless I see this person's credentials (degree level and subject), I'll rely on what the oil manufacturers rate their oils as. I frequent an automotive site where one of the guys just murders Fram oil filters. I've used them for decades on my and my family's vehicles without ever seeing an oil-related failure.

I think this is the reality of Fram oil filters. Ever since those reports first came out and everyone realized they build the orange can filter to meet a price target, everyone flipped out and acted like they're suddenly garbage. But if they were that bad, at the volume of filters they sell, there should be no shortage of horror stories.

I won't buy a Fram orange can, but only because they charge too much for what it is. Any other manufacturer at the same price (Wix, Motorcraft, etc) is better quality, and you can get the same quality for a fraction of the price (Pronto, etc) from Rockauto.

[DarkFlounder]

I used FRAM for years with no issues.

My only issue with Fram is the perception that if AutoZone recommends it, it's probably not that good. So, I'm running Wix now, simply because they make NAPA's house brand.

I change the oil/filter every 3k miles with Havoline 10w40. No zinc additives, since the engine has over 30k miles on it and is well past the break-in period.

[LongBox]

A bit of my own experience: I had a flat tappet engine re-built, and used modern, hig-qulaity oil, only to discover that only a few thousand miles down the road, the cam had deteriorated, with a couple of the lobes being almost flat. I had a new cam installed, and from then on, I used a Lucas Oil additive, with high zinc content, and those troubles went away. My 69 is the only vehicle I have without roller tappets, and I'm using Mobil1 5W-30, and it seems to be doing well. The previous owner used Valvoline 20W-40, so perhaps the cam/tappets got off to a good start.

Against conventional wisdom, I installed new lifters on the old cam, slathered with huge amounts of assembly lube, and so far, so good. The cam lobes appeared perfect at that time. We'll see what develops.

Frequent changes, proper warm ups, and so on can't hurt at all. Neither can buying quality oil and filters.

[Z10]

Do yourself a favor and read the 540rat blog mentioned above. Changed my perspective not only on ZDPP, but also change intervals, and additives.

[Mr Handy]

I would recommend taking the 540 rat blog with a grain of salt... I read the thing about a year ago and after reading I asked myself what I learned and if if I could duplicate his tests. the answer is a big fat no because he does not tell you anything about anything... not scientific and not sighted in any way...
If i were to write a 100 level college paper and used the blog as a primary source I would have gotten a big fat F...
I have a History degree not science. I leave the biology to my wife, she has the BS degree, I know how to research.

Anyway, IMO if you can write a mile long paper about scientific research and never sight a single thing and not outline the test procedures, you might as well be reading Harry Potter.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

I wonder what the oil temperature range is for the original engines? I ask because from the 540rat it reads:

9. 5W30 Mobil 1, Advanced Full Synthetic, API SN, GM dexos 1 approved = 117,799 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD
This was the latest current version of this oil when tested at the end of 2015. This oil is used by a number of Auto Makers worldwide as factory fill oil in their High Performance cars. The psi value of this oil, which came from testing it at the normal operating test temperature of 230*F, put it in the INCREDIBLE Wear Protection Category.

[U]However, I went on to also test this oil at the much higher temperature of 275*F. At that elevated temperature, any hotter and thinner oil is expected to experience a drop in Wear Protection Capability. And this oil did have a disappointing 36% drop in capability.[/U] At that reduced value down to 75,861 psi, this much hotter and thinner oil dropped down to the GOOD Wear Protection Category. You can avoid such a drop in capability by keeping the oil at a more reasonable cooler temperature.


Granted it says "normal operating temperature", under what conditions would it be abby-normal high operating temperature?