orange stuff - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

gerry giordano · 04-10-2004, 02:51 PM

Guess this post 'll date me- or a least my vehicles. I've always used the green stuff anti freeze (or anti-boil for those of us in Phoenix). My '69 with the new Goodwrench 350 crate has orange stuff in the radiator. What's the story with that stuff?

Appreciate the education- thanks.

orange72350 · 04-10-2004, 03:50 PM

call me crazy, but i beleive that is dexcool...if it is, i havent heard good things about it....have heard of people dumping it in favor of regular green stuff...but not 100% sure

cableguy0 · 04-10-2004, 04:09 PM

flush the dexcool out and use the green stuff

PanelDeland · 04-10-2004, 05:01 PM

"Sposed to be more enviromentally friendly.I don't know.Also not sposed to be toxic.(I'm still not letting my dog drink it.)

**smitty62** · 04-10-2004, 07:17 PM

Naaaa, Naaa, Naaa!--it's made to be compatible with all the new aluminum engines out there. Cast iron is on the way out. It's not necessary to replace it, should work fine for any engine. What the hell difference does the color make?

jay6891 · 04-10-2004, 07:38 PM

If you change it out, make sure you flush it real good. I have heard that if you mix it with anything else, brand name included, it will gel up.

mooneyes · 04-10-2004, 07:52 PM

...i've mixed it before with no probs...other than a nasty color

acloco · 04-10-2004, 08:17 PM

Dump the orange stuff....DEXCOOL....it sucks! PERIOD.

If you dump it...you MUST flush all of it...including the heater core. If they mix, besides turning color, leaves a nice mud in all the small orifice areas of your engine, water pump, thermostat, heater core, & radiator.....eventually plugging them up......no bull. We probably see 3 or 4 vehicles a month that have been mixed.

To cure the aluminum corrosion problem....make sure that your body, chassis, engine, battery have GREAT grounds. Run them like the factory did...there IS a reason for this. Probably the #1 overlooked item by every person building anything...even the 100K street rods...look...and you will see what I mean.

You can also add a "water wetter" or water conditioner.....or use distilled water to mix your new green coolant.

Good luck.

Longhorn Man · 04-12-2004, 12:30 AM

I say dump it too, we have seen them in our shop where no one had ever put anything in it but the corect dex cool, and it still gelled up clogging the heater core.

walker · 04-12-2004, 12:44 AM

I have been running it just fine for years. I prefer the green stuff, as it has been around longer, and darn it anti freeze should be green! If you have it in there leave it, when you change it, flush it and change to green.
As far as the whole aluminum corrosion thing goes, it doesn't have much to do with ground wires. The corrosion has to do with the position of iron and aluminum on the Galvanic table. Sure good grounds are essential for the proper operation of you truck, but we are talking about 12v adodes and cathodes here, not earth ground. The way to protect your aluminum intakes is to make sure the product you are putting in there to protect them is up to snuff, and gets changed at the proper intervals.
Also, I like to use only distilled water in the cooling system, as it is "wetter" and doesn't leave behind minerals.

acloco · 04-12-2004, 12:49 AM

Walker....I agree with you, but there is a little bit more to it than that as well.

The problem is moving a liquid, in our case, coolant....in passages that are made of cast iron & aluminum. That is how electrolysis begins.....and if you don't have good grounds....the problem worsens.

Look at the older Ford, Oldsmobile, etc, etc...engines that had an aluminum timing cover that was also the back of the water pump. Or the engines that have a block/gasket/steel plate/gasket/water pump as the setup on the front of the engine. Nine times out of ten...the aluminum cover or the plate is torn up......either from electrolysis or by simple corrosion.

walker · 04-12-2004, 12:59 AM

I agree with you. Simple corrosion on aluminum is electolosis, it is the generation of electrical power by turning your engine block into a cathode and your intake manifold into an anode. To stop it you need to take away either the anode, the cathode, or the electrolyte. It is difficult to make your block and manifold the same potential, so you need to make sure your coolant does not become the electrolyte, by properly maintaining it. Also you could put a sacrificial adode in the cooling system that will give up its life to save your manifold like zinc. You can pick up zincs at the local marine supplier. I wonder why zincs are not a more commonly installed in automotive engines???

acloco · 04-12-2004, 03:20 AM

Walker....hehehe......ALL automobile manufacturers make their money on parts!! That would cut into a significant part of their revenue!!!! Then add in the aftermarket!!!

Great info!!!!!

04-10-2004, 03:50 PM	#2
orange72350 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Cold, Snowy High Level, Alberta Canada Eh Posts: 394	call me crazy, but i beleive that is dexcool...if it is, i havent heard good things about it....have heard of people dumping it in favor of regular green stuff...but not 100% sure __________________ 2003 yamaha raptor. Stock, but it still hauls!!!! 2000 skiddo mxz 700. Camoplast 1.5 inch track, jaws twin pipes, b+b can, custom built and weighted clutch, wiseco piston, high comp heads. its very fast. wow. 72 c-10 longbox. Bright Orange. Brand new 350, rv cam, performer intake, qjet, headers, 2 1/2 inch exhaust into hooker areo chamber mufflers. Body work coming soon. "dont let yer mind wander, its to little to go places by itself." "Forget the herse, cause i'll never die"-ACDC Back In Black "If It's To Loud, Yer Just Too Old" "I Love Anything Fast Enough To Do Something Stupid In" "Instant idiot, just add beer!!""

04-10-2004, 04:09 PM	#3
cableguy0 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Delta,Pa Posts: 14,950	flush the dexcool out and use the green stuff __________________ Owner of North Point Car Care in Dundalk Md. We specialize in custom exhaust on both modern and classic vehicles. We are a full service auto shop from classics to modern vehicles. Feel free to contact me with questions. I will give a 10% discount to any board member.

04-10-2004, 05:01 PM	#4
PanelDeland I am a Referee of life. Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Greensboro N.C. Posts: 13,993	"Sposed to be more enviromentally friendly.I don't know.Also not sposed to be toxic.(I'm still not letting my dog drink it.) __________________ The 47-present Chevrolet and GMC Truck Message Board Network,it's owners,moderators,members,and associates of any type should not be held responsible for my opinion. You can't fix stupid,not even with duct tape. "My appearance is due to the fact that "GOD" does punish you for having too much fun!" Barrett-Jackson has perfected alchemy,they make rust into gold! "You can lead a horse to water but you can't saddle a duck" "Cleverly disguised as a 'Responsible Adult' "Sometimes your Knight in shining armor is just a retard in tinfoil"

04-10-2004, 07:17 PM	#5
smitty62 Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: North Carolina Posts: 1,234	Naaaa, Naaa, Naaa!--it's made to be compatible with all the new aluminum engines out there. Cast iron is on the way out. It's not necessary to replace it, should work fine for any engine. What the hell difference does the color make? __________________ Stepsides look like real trucks! Smitty

04-10-2004, 07:38 PM	#6
jay6891 Car Knocker Join Date: May 2001 Location: jefferson,arkansas Posts: 664	If you change it out, make sure you flush it real good. I have heard that if you mix it with anything else, brand name included, it will gel up. __________________ 68 c-10,91 sportside bed,350 .030 over,4 bolt,10-1 comp,2.05 intake/1.94 exhaust,1.6 Harland Sharp roller rockers,edelbrock rpm cam and intake w/750 carb, 700r4, 3.73 gears,Jacabbs Electronic Igntion w/Accel HEI distributer and super coil. ZR-1 roll pan, filled tailights. Blazer tank. Hidden hitch. 2 1/2" Flowmaster 40's. Parts bought but not installed>> ford 9" posi with disc. CCP front and rear lowering kit 4/5. Cab corners,foor boards,rockers, cab braces, Phatom grill, Painless wiring kit.

04-10-2004, 02:51 PM	#1
gerry giordano Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Arizona Posts: 44	orange stuff Guess this post 'll date me- or a least my vehicles. I've always used the green stuff anti freeze (or anti-boil for those of us in Phoenix). My '69 with the new Goodwrench 350 crate has orange stuff in the radiator. What's the story with that stuff? Appreciate the education- thanks.

04-10-2004, 07:52 PM	#7
mooneyes Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Slippery Rock PA USA Posts: 1,692	...i've mixed it before with no probs...other than a nasty color __________________ Ken Lyons, Slippery rock pa 68 short step 327 t10 4 gear 72 2wd blazer project 70 lwb 305/700r driver 78 caprice project 02 cavalier D.D ( hate it!!)

04-10-2004, 08:17 PM	#8
acloco Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Nebraska Posts: 335	Dump the orange stuff....DEXCOOL....it sucks! PERIOD. If you dump it...you MUST flush all of it...including the heater core. If they mix, besides turning color, leaves a nice mud in all the small orifice areas of your engine, water pump, thermostat, heater core, & radiator.....eventually plugging them up......no bull. We probably see 3 or 4 vehicles a month that have been mixed. To cure the aluminum corrosion problem....make sure that your body, chassis, engine, battery have GREAT grounds. Run them like the factory did...there IS a reason for this. Probably the #1 overlooked item by every person building anything...even the 100K street rods...look...and you will see what I mean. You can also add a "water wetter" or water conditioner.....or use distilled water to mix your new green coolant. Good luck.

04-12-2004, 12:30 AM	#9
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	I say dump it too, we have seen them in our shop where no one had ever put anything in it but the corect dex cool, and it still gelled up clogging the heater core.

04-12-2004, 12:44 AM	#10
walker Registered User Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: north of Phx AZ about 30 miles Posts: 698	I have been running it just fine for years. I prefer the green stuff, as it has been around longer, and darn it anti freeze should be green! If you have it in there leave it, when you change it, flush it and change to green. As far as the whole aluminum corrosion thing goes, it doesn't have much to do with ground wires. The corrosion has to do with the position of iron and aluminum on the Galvanic table. Sure good grounds are essential for the proper operation of you truck, but we are talking about 12v adodes and cathodes here, not earth ground. The way to protect your aluminum intakes is to make sure the product you are putting in there to protect them is up to snuff, and gets changed at the proper intervals. Also, I like to use only distilled water in the cooling system, as it is "wetter" and doesn't leave behind minerals. __________________ Andy,Phx AZ '67 C-10 (Ahhh, done at last. Well there is that disk front end I want to put in and...) "23 C-Cab-sold '48 Ford 8N tractor(still working) '67 Scout(Now on the road) '70 MG B.-sold

04-12-2004, 12:49 AM	#11
acloco Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Nebraska Posts: 335	Walker....I agree with you, but there is a little bit more to it than that as well. The problem is moving a liquid, in our case, coolant....in passages that are made of cast iron & aluminum. That is how electrolysis begins.....and if you don't have good grounds....the problem worsens. Look at the older Ford, Oldsmobile, etc, etc...engines that had an aluminum timing cover that was also the back of the water pump. Or the engines that have a block/gasket/steel plate/gasket/water pump as the setup on the front of the engine. Nine times out of ten...the aluminum cover or the plate is torn up......either from electrolysis or by simple corrosion.

04-12-2004, 12:59 AM	#12
walker Registered User Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: north of Phx AZ about 30 miles Posts: 698	I agree with you. Simple corrosion on aluminum is electolosis, it is the generation of electrical power by turning your engine block into a cathode and your intake manifold into an anode. To stop it you need to take away either the anode, the cathode, or the electrolyte. It is difficult to make your block and manifold the same potential, so you need to make sure your coolant does not become the electrolyte, by properly maintaining it. Also you could put a sacrificial adode in the cooling system that will give up its life to save your manifold like zinc. You can pick up zincs at the local marine supplier. I wonder why zincs are not a more commonly installed in automotive engines??? __________________ Andy,Phx AZ '67 C-10 (Ahhh, done at last. Well there is that disk front end I want to put in and...) "23 C-Cab-sold '48 Ford 8N tractor(still working) '67 Scout(Now on the road) '70 MG B.-sold

04-12-2004, 03:20 AM	#13
acloco Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Nebraska Posts: 335	Walker....hehehe......ALL automobile manufacturers make their money on parts!! That would cut into a significant part of their revenue!!!! Then add in the aftermarket!!! Great info!!!!!



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