Can't bleed the f@$$%@# brakes ,help me !!

[Pinchecharlie]

Will you savy mechanics please enlighten me on this process! Everything is new, new calipers up front new lines, new master new prop valve, new cylinders in the rear, new lines on the axle. Only old line is junction from passenger front to axle. I bleed the master on the bench. Every wheel will bleed but drivers rear. New bleeder back there. I've tightened everything to the point of breaking them . The drivers rear will spew bubbles indefinitely. This tells me I have a loose fitting right? But passenger bleeds bleeds fine? Bad wheel cylinder even though it's new? I even bought a little bleeds screw thing for the proportioning valve. I dunno but iam about to flip out mood. Any insight of any kind will help cause iam looking this battle. Thanks charlie

[Clyde65]

I have seen wheel cylinders that weren't made right do something like that. Where did you buy? Brand?

[Pinchecharlie]

Oh they came from Napa, Ray bestos I think? Silly thing is that the other side (passanger) is same stuff and it bleeds fine. Must be that cylinder?

[RANDY COX]

Yea it could be that wheel cylinder just because it's new, doesn't mean anything, could be defective...Yrs ago I had a blazer and had changed out the master cylinder and never could get brakes to the rear to save my life changed out all kind of stuff..never did find out what the problem was, I wound up selling it like that...

[Pinchecharlie]

Shot in the dark but could the truck being on a slight incle have ant affect. Fronts higher than back?

[mafosa]

you could reverse bleed them. need a compressor, glass jam (style) jar, couple air fittings and a "on n off" valve.
fill up jar with fluid, take off the MC cover, hose from jar to bleeder valve, pressurize the jar (5lbs or so and force everything up the the MC.

i used russells speed bleeders for the first time. waaaay cleaner job.

just a thought.


larry

[jayoldschool]

Swap the cylinders side to side, you'll have your answer...

[goofy063]

its possible you pushed the the cup in the cylinder to far in when installing but it should leak. try gravity bleeding loosen the bleeder put a piece of hose on the bleeder run it to a jar take the lid off master cylinder and wait it shouldn't take to long maybe 15 mins and don't let the master run dry

[MikeN]

If the piece you said you did NOT replace si the short rubber line over the rear end housing, those can deteriorate/corrode from the inside, and become plugged. Happened on my 69 Chevelle. Any NAPA should have that hose.

[Pinchecharlie]

I read that if you run the master too dry while bleeding you need to remove and re bleed the master? We did run it low one try. I replaced the short hose in back but I'll check it. Will order speed bleeder seems everyone likes them. I thought to maybe my brake peddle wasn't adjusted right too and not fully disengaging the plunger?. Looks like a complete do over but that's how it goes. So frustrating but typical.Thanks for the replies I'll try all the stuff mentioned.

[cg285]

you don't need any special bleeder. check and see if you left a line fitting loose.

[Pinchecharlie]

I read that if you run the master too dry while bleeding you need to remove and re bleed the master? We did run it low one try. I replaced the short hose in back but I'll check it. Will order speed bleeder seems everyone likes them. I thought to maybe my brake peddle wasn't adjusted right too and not fully disengaging the plunger?. Looks like a complete do over but that's how it goes. So frustrating but typical.Thanks for the replies I'll try all the stuff mentioned.

[nail pounder]

Originally Posted by Pinchecharlie

I read that if you run the master too dry while bleeding you need to remove and re bleed the master? We did run it low one try. I replaced the short hose in back but I'll check it. Will order speed bleeder seems everyone likes them. I thought to maybe my brake peddle wasn't adjusted right too and not fully disengaging the plunger?. Looks like a complete do over but that's how it goes. So frustrating but typical.Thanks for the replies I'll try all the stuff mentioned.

If it's dual pot reservoir and you ran the one dry just keep filling it up and bleeding the rears until it's done, no need to start over. Just pump, pump, pump, hold and repeat until it's done. Make sure to keep it full this time. Test drive and re-bleed if necessary.

[Pinchecharlie]

Ok I re bleed the master, re tightened everything and swap out two bleeder and was able to get clear new fluid at every wheel. Bad news is I think I have a pedal issue. The pedal goes down an inch before it starts making the master hard and it's all hard and at a dead stop about 3/4 travel. The set up came from p.o.l. and has a clekos then all thread then a coupler to the brake booster rod. I read about having a 1/4 inch free play at the pedal but have no experience with a booster and iam a little confused as to the proper engagement? Seems like the pedal gets hard the way it's supposed to but just does it "late " in the downward travel. I know not to have it not release the master but I don't have the experience to tell. Thanks if you can help. Note to future swappers- chase the bleeder threads and replace any old bleeder even if they where working! Cheap alternative to say long headaches and anger management therapy.

[chevy_mike]

Did you drill a pivot hole 1" down from the stock pedal hookup? This is exactly the issue when the pedal ratio is wrong. It works like normal but really low, almost to the floor. Just did a power brake swap on my buddies '68. He tried the stock hole and it got firm like it should, the pedal would engage really low. As I had told him, he needed to drill a hole 1" lower for the proper power brake pedal ratio. He did that and the brakes work perfect.

Many GM cars already had this second lower hole but most trucks did not because the factory use a bell crank linkage to change the pedal ratio.

[Pinchecharlie]

I didn't drill a new hope but I will tonight! Thanks I appreciate it!!

[TopFuel1966]

You didn't mention if this is a conversion but if you now have power brakes where you didn't before, you need to change the pedal ratio.

http://www.mpbrakes.com/techtalk/how...ng-pedal-ratio

[Pinchecharlie]

Sorry my bad! Yeah it is a conversion. Thanks for the link and the patience!

[Pinchecharlie]

Thanks for the pedal ratio info! Worked like a charm! Good hard pedal ! Maybe I was chasing my tail that whole time? Anyway got her going and she stops and turns and goes generally really good for a beat up old truck. Getting alignment done next week and then on to a fun paint job for my beekeeping business. Thanks again!!!

[chevy_mike]

Glad it solved the problem. This seems to be really common with power brake swaps.