Is LMC the only place to buy parts?

[Drummerboy]

Originally Posted by AussieinNC

As far as I know, Woodall Industries is a wholesaler only...no retail sales...

GMCPauls is a great source....

drummerboy ordered the line from InlineTubes...

Hope he got the two lines across the rear end and some wheel cylinders...the rust on that photo tells me the truck has seen some nasty weather at some time...anyhoo...

I am sure he will yell out of he needs any further help...just wait until he goes to bleed that 50 + year old master cylinder !!!!

Are these supposed to be words of encouragement? Wow... Really shaking my head my head right now.

The rest of the lines actually look really good. I was shocked when I went to the other end of that line. It has no rust on it.

[dannyboy]

Got to love how a question spins off into never never land. All these catalog companies charge a large fee for shipping and handling, Order a $6 dollar part ya need and pay $8 to ship it, even if it fits into a envelope and .36 cent stamp.

I looked for a 72 K20 hinge repair kit, its a bushing and pin, go online to LMC, put in Door hinge repair kit and see.

No LMC is not the only one there are a few. Just to be back on subject, none are Super Great, limited market.

[davepl]

Originally Posted by Drummerboy

I looked up one from Right Stuff Detailing. Had horrible reviews. Several complaints that they weren't shaped like the original. So they're out, and that's who Summit carries.

That's weird, as I had great luck with Right Stuff, but Inline was spotty customer service (unanswered emails and calls) and non-available product.

The vendors on this board would be well-served by putting together a page or spreadsheet indicating who sells what. If you don't know that Vendor X sells Product Y, it's pretty tough to support the board vendors. LMC makes it easy, and people will only work so hard...

[AussieinNC]

Hey drummerboy...my help and suggestions are from the heart and in most cases, very sincere.

Part of how working on old trucks for over 40 years is how it gets into ones being.

You are discovering what most of us "oldies" have found time and time again...rear brake hard lines rust out badly due to the location of the lines...the front end of that pipe is protected from road spray and salt etc by the front cross member.

The hard lines across the rear end rust badly and the rubber hose is subjected to exhaust heat and road wash, including salt etc.

The rear wheel cylinder bleed nipples rust into the body of the wheel cylinders and will usually snap off when you attempt to open them...


My comment about the master cylinder is again based on 40 years of experience,,,

The travel distance of the master piston during normal use is about 5/8"...when you go to try and bleed the system, using the "pump the pedal up process", the travel bottoms out for what may be the first time in 10 years,...often damaging the seals and valves ...

Suggestion:

Change the wheel cylinders on both sides while you are working on this repair.
Check the brakes shoes...and drums...make sure they are in good condition.
Change both rear brake pipes and the rubber hose which blew out.
Fit the new front to rear brake pipe and clips...dont forget the clips...the pipe will vibrate and could fracture if you dont use the clips.
Find, buy, beg, borrow and pressure or suction brake bleed tool so you dont risk damaging the master cylinder rubbers...
Use an unopened new bottle of brake fluid...fluid from old opened bottles often has absorbed water from the humid air...lowering the boiling point of the fluid...

Bleed the rear system drivers rear first, then passengers side...

Make sure all fittings are tight, with no leaks under pressure...

I am assuming you are also changing the front brake hoses...did you check the bleeder nipples in the front cylinders...???

Afterall, you can get away with primer painted panels and "patina", but you should never shortcut brakes...

This board has a great group of folk, most willing to lend a hand...and part of that "help" is sometimes having some fun...for me and some others, we will tell it like it is, prickles and all...

Have fun !!!

[AussieinNC]

Hey Dannyboy...

Dorman has a selection of door pin kits available at most local auto parts stores...average around $10...

I always try and use local suppliers to minimize shipping cost, I suppose I am lucky really...I have TommysPickupParts 10 minutes away, and several large wholesalers near Charlotte...

I also keep an eye out for free shipping offers from the catalog guys...

The catalog guys are essential to the business, and their online parts search capabilities are very robust.

Always try and support local suppliers...its the best way to keep us all afloat.

[Drummerboy]

Originally Posted by AussieinNC

Hey drummerboy...my help and suggestions are from the heart and in most cases, very sincere.

Part of how working on old trucks for over 40 years is how it gets into ones being.

You are discovering what most of us "oldies" have found time and time again...rear brake hard lines rust out badly due to the location of the lines...the front end of that pipe is protected from road spray and salt etc by the front cross member.

The hard lines across the rear end rust badly and the rubber hose is subjected to exhaust heat and road wash, including salt etc.

The rear wheel cylinder bleed nipples rust into the body of the wheel cylinders and will usually snap off when you attempt to open them...


My comment about the master cylinder is again based on 40 years of experience,,,

The travel distance of the master piston during normal use is about 5/8"...when you go to try and bleed the system, using the "pump the pedal up process", the travel bottoms out for what may be the first time in 10 years,...often damaging the seals and valves ...

Suggestion:

Change the wheel cylinders on both sides while you are working on this repair.
Check the brakes shoes...and drums...make sure they are in good condition.
Change both rear brake pipes and the rubber hose which blew out.
Fit the new front to rear brake pipe and clips...dont forget the clips...the pipe will vibrate and could fracture if you dont use the clips.
Find, buy, beg, borrow and pressure or suction brake bleed tool so you dont risk damaging the master cylinder rubbers...
Use an unopened new bottle of brake fluid...fluid from old opened bottles often has absorbed water from the humid air...lowering the boiling point of the fluid...

Bleed the rear system drivers rear first, then passengers side...

Make sure all fittings are tight, with no leaks under pressure...

I am assuming you are also changing the front brake hoses...did you check the bleeder nipples in the front cylinders...???

Afterall, you can get away with primer painted panels and "patina", but you should never shortcut brakes...

This board has a great group of folk, most willing to lend a hand...and part of that "help" is sometimes having some fun...for me and some others, we will tell it like it is, prickles and all...

Have fun !!!

Again, great advice sensei.

Sorry for all the questions. But this isn't my first rodeo, I've had a lot of vintage cars and trucks. This is just the first one that I've had to do such brake work to.

[AussieinNC]

Ah my uchi-deshi

It is my pleasure to share my wisdom with such a willing student!

[Drummerboy]

Originally Posted by AussieinNC

Ah my uchi-deshi

It is my pleasure to share my wisdom with such a willing student!

Again, much appreciated

[harpo231]

Originally Posted by Boog

Yezz. K don't sugar coat anything.
He is all about the cold hard facts no matter how it lands. No dancing around and there ain't nuttin wrong with that. ��

maybe not so special

[1968aj]

I have bought parts from lmc and all the other major suppliers. prices vary for different items. lmc does have a very good free catalog that most of us rookies and forgetful people find very useful. I never had a problem getting my parts from them but that's just my personal experience with them. anybody just getting into these old trucks should get the lmc catalog.

[jeffahart]

Originally Posted by harpo231

maybe not so special

Your Avatar has a watermark! Image of a JackA$$ with a watermark....OOPS... fitting and special.

[Maximus]

for most competitive pricing I always shop www.Classicparts.com (Formerly Chevy Duty)

They used to just be chevy trucks, but now they are expanding into novas, camaros, and even 30's chevys. they almost always beat LMC Pricing, but might not have quite the extensive catalog selection. Great place though, im ashamed at how many thousands of dollars they have received from me.......

For me, they always email me promotions and that helps, plus being out of state (Kansas I think) no sales tax and very fair shipping costs...

[harpo231]

Originally Posted by jeffahart

Your Avatar has a watermark! Image of a JackA$$ with a watermark....OOPS... fitting and special.

Indeed is that a crime ? Am i missing something ?

[jeffahart]

Originally Posted by harpo231

Indeed is that a crime ? Am i missing something ?

You fixed it pretty quick. No crime wave...

[harpo231]

Ya Im quick as a cat

[Drummerboy]

I want to apologize to the group. The title of this post was misleading. I should have titled it "Who else is a good parts supplier"

I know that there's others, I've just been out of the game for seven years and things have changed a bit when it comes to parts suppliers.

Again, I was t to Tha k everyone for their wealth of knowledge. Especially AussieinNC. He's a kick ass dude when it comes to step by step instructions. How I wish he was my neighbor!