700r4 swap - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Mr.Supersonic · 07-20-2017, 09:09 AM

I've got a 68 c10 long bed with a 350 and th400 transmission, and I want to swap in a 700r4. what all needs to be done to do this swap? I've never done anything like this before so any advice is appreciated. thanks!

**LockDoc** · 07-20-2017, 09:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr.Supersonic

I've got a 68 c10 long bed with a 350 and th400 transmission, and I want to swap in a 700r4. what all needs to be done to do this swap? I've never done anything like this before so any advice is appreciated. thanks!

Read through this:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ad.php?t=33266

LockDoc

Ram-Man · 07-20-2017, 09:53 AM

I just did a 700 r4 swap. The link posted is very good info from my experience save yourself a lot of headaches and get the bowtie overdrives tv cable system. It's $150 for the kit but worth every penny.

wbc409 · 07-20-2017, 07:27 PM

The original sun shells are weak. If it needs a rebuild I would recommend doing a little research on upgrades. You don't need to build a race tranny, but a couple things to improve durability and reliability.

**Already Gone** · 07-20-2017, 07:35 PM

Subscribed

**LockDoc** · 07-20-2017, 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ram-Man

I just did a 700 r4 swap. The link posted is very good info from my experience save yourself a lot of headaches and get the bowtie overdrives tv cable system. It's $150 for the kit but worth every penny.

I also used and recommend the BowTie Overdrives kit....

LockDoc

Mr.Supersonic · 07-22-2017, 09:29 PM

okay sounds like I'm gonna need that bowtie kit. anything else I should get? and if anyone else has done this swap was it worth it? I mostly just want to be able to cruise at 65 or 70 more comfortably.

**davischevy** · 07-22-2017, 10:20 PM

What they said.

Is it worth it? Yes. We have done a bunch of these behind big blocks and small blocks.

Now I can drive my big block Longhorn on the Interstate at 70 comfortably.

**LEEVON** · 07-22-2017, 10:52 PM

I have done quite a few 700R4 swaps, even have one behind a healthy 5.3L. Regardless of what linkage system you use, make sure that before you drive the truck you use a pressure gauge to confirm the set-up. There is a 1/8 NPT port on the driver's side, easy access. I have added to another thread or two around here that has the charts of pressures in park, neutral, forward gears and reverse. Basically you want to make sure that when the throttle moves, line pressure is instant. You will want a couple of psi at idle. Where people go wrong is setting up by feel, and they don't realize that line pressure isn't raising until part throttle, or is too high at idle etc...burns em up.

Ram-Man · 07-22-2017, 11:59 PM

Yes it's worth the swap. I'm running 4.56 gears and at 2000 rpms at 55. Very fun to drive with this setup.

**davischevy** · 07-23-2017, 10:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LEEVON

I have done quite a few 700R4 swaps, even have one behind a healthy 5.3L. Regardless of what linkage system you use, make sure that before you drive the truck you use a pressure gauge to confirm the set-up. There is a 1/8 NPT port on the driver's side, easy access. I have added to another thread or two around here that has the charts of pressures in park, neutral, forward gears and reverse. Basically you want to make sure that when the throttle moves, line pressure is instant. You will want a couple of psi at idle. Where people go wrong is setting up by feel, and they don't realize that line pressure isn't raising until part throttle, or is too high at idle etc...burns em up.

Listen to LEEVON. He is right.I won't tell you how I know.

Mr.Supersonic · 07-23-2017, 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LEEVON

I have done quite a few 700R4 swaps, even have one behind a healthy 5.3L. Regardless of what linkage system you use, make sure that before you drive the truck you use a pressure gauge to confirm the set-up. There is a 1/8 NPT port on the driver's side, easy access. I have added to another thread or two around here that has the charts of pressures in park, neutral, forward gears and reverse. Basically you want to make sure that when the throttle moves, line pressure is instant. You will want a couple of psi at idle. Where people go wrong is setting up by feel, and they don't realize that line pressure isn't raising until part throttle, or is too high at idle etc...burns em up.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=526152

this the board I need to read?

Mr.Supersonic · 07-23-2017, 01:46 PM

okay reading through that first link on the overview of the swap, he talks about going to a one piece drive shaft... is that something I should do or can I stay at 2 piece?

**davischevy** · 07-23-2017, 03:44 PM

No right or wrong here, but I stayed with the 2 piece in my longhorn.

You could possibly eliminate some vibration with a 1 piece.

**LockDoc** · 07-23-2017, 07:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr.Supersonic

okay reading through that first link on the overview of the swap, he talks about going to a one piece drive shaft... is that something I should do or can I stay at 2 piece?

With the long bed I would stick with the 2 piece shaft....

Just my 2¢ worth.

LockDoc

Ram-Man · 07-23-2017, 10:27 PM

⬆⬆⬆I agree

**LEEVON** · 07-23-2017, 10:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr.Supersonic

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=526152

this the board I need to read?

Yes, anything Clinebarger says trumps pretty much any other tranny advice you will get here! That's the chart.

Mr.Supersonic · 07-24-2017, 05:18 PM

okay cool, keeping my driveshaft will save me some cash too. okay one last question. how do I wire the torque converter lock up?

tdangle · 07-24-2017, 07:55 PM

Give the guys at Bowtie a call. They will set you up with everything. Not exactly cheap but the best way to go. I believe you will also have to get your front drive shaft shortened.

07-20-2017, 09:09 AM	#1
Mr.Supersonic Registered User Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: peabody ks Posts: 27	700r4 swap I've got a 68 c10 long bed with a 350 and th400 transmission, and I want to swap in a 700r4. what all needs to be done to do this swap? I've never done anything like this before so any advice is appreciated. thanks!

07-20-2017, 09:53 AM	#3
Ram-Man Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Minnesota Posts: 943	Re: 700r4 swap I just did a 700 r4 swap. The link posted is very good info from my experience save yourself a lot of headaches and get the bowtie overdrives tv cable system. It's $150 for the kit but worth every penny. __________________ Porterbuilt 8 Lugger http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=691739

07-20-2017, 07:27 PM	#4
wbc409 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: st cloud mn Posts: 163	Re: 700r4 swap The original sun shells are weak. If it needs a rebuild I would recommend doing a little research on upgrades. You don't need to build a race tranny, but a couple things to improve durability and reliability.

07-20-2017, 07:35 PM	#5
Already Gone 70+ ( Old Skool Club ) Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan ,Canada Posts: 9,161	Re: 700r4 swap Subscribed __________________ 1972 C10 Custom/Deluxe 613 Highlander 406/700R4 1999 White Tahoe LS 4x2 with Z56 Police Package 1992 K1500 GMC Suburban Members I have personally met: MusicMan70 - HeavyD - ChewyChevy67 - StingRay -71SWB4x4 - 67 Burb - DeadheadNM - too much stuff - bc65 - das601 " Circumsatances Do Not Change Responsibility " " The Sky is not the Limit, Your Mind is." Marilyn Monroe .. RIP Charlie Watts 1941 - 2021

07-22-2017, 09:29 PM	#7
Mr.Supersonic Registered User Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: peabody ks Posts: 27	Re: 700r4 swap okay sounds like I'm gonna need that bowtie kit. anything else I should get? and if anyone else has done this swap was it worth it? I mostly just want to be able to cruise at 65 or 70 more comfortably.

07-22-2017, 10:20 PM	#8
davischevy Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Harrison, Arkansas Posts: 9,881	Re: 700r4 swap What they said. Is it worth it? Yes. We have done a bunch of these behind big blocks and small blocks. Now I can drive my big block Longhorn on the Interstate at 70 comfortably. __________________ other Larry Build thread, Arkansas K10 https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...=755797&page=5 The ability to speak several languages is an asset, but the ability to keep your mouth shut in any language is priceless.

07-22-2017, 10:52 PM	#9
LEEVON Moderator Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Ozark, MO Posts: 4,919	Re: 700r4 swap I have done quite a few 700R4 swaps, even have one behind a healthy 5.3L. Regardless of what linkage system you use, make sure that before you drive the truck you use a pressure gauge to confirm the set-up. There is a 1/8 NPT port on the driver's side, easy access. I have added to another thread or two around here that has the charts of pressures in park, neutral, forward gears and reverse. Basically you want to make sure that when the throttle moves, line pressure is instant. You will want a couple of psi at idle. Where people go wrong is setting up by feel, and they don't realize that line pressure isn't raising until part throttle, or is too high at idle etc...burns em up. __________________ '86 GMC C30 Crew ~ '86 C20 Crew ~ '79 K15 Sierra Grande ~ '76 Blazer 2wd ~ '74K10 ~ '71 Cheyenne swb ~'50 3100 bagged ~ '80 Wife ~ Late model kids

07-22-2017, 11:59 PM	#10
Ram-Man Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Minnesota Posts: 943	Re: 700r4 swap Yes it's worth the swap. I'm running 4.56 gears and at 2000 rpms at 55. Very fun to drive with this setup. __________________ Porterbuilt 8 Lugger http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=691739

07-23-2017, 01:46 PM	#13
Mr.Supersonic Registered User Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: peabody ks Posts: 27	Re: 700r4 swap okay reading through that first link on the overview of the swap, he talks about going to a one piece drive shaft... is that something I should do or can I stay at 2 piece?

07-23-2017, 03:44 PM	#14
davischevy Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Harrison, Arkansas Posts: 9,881	Re: 700r4 swap No right or wrong here, but I stayed with the 2 piece in my longhorn. You could possibly eliminate some vibration with a 1 piece. __________________ other Larry Build thread, Arkansas K10 https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...=755797&page=5 The ability to speak several languages is an asset, but the ability to keep your mouth shut in any language is priceless.

07-23-2017, 10:27 PM	#16
Ram-Man Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Minnesota Posts: 943	Re: 700r4 swap ⬆⬆⬆I agree __________________ Porterbuilt 8 Lugger http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=691739

07-24-2017, 05:18 PM	#18
Mr.Supersonic Registered User Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: peabody ks Posts: 27	Re: 700r4 swap okay cool, keeping my driveshaft will save me some cash too. okay one last question. how do I wire the torque converter lock up?

07-24-2017, 07:55 PM	#19
tdangle Registered User Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Jurupa Valley, Ca Posts: 1,211	Re: 700r4 swap Give the guys at Bowtie a call. They will set you up with everything. Not exactly cheap but the best way to go. I believe you will also have to get your front drive shaft shortened. __________________ Terry 1970 Custom Camper/C20 , GM Crate 350/7004R, Dana 60, factory AC



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