Why for I cannot remove the rear main brake line?

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Trying to remove the rear main line from the "rear brakes distribution hose", for lack of better term.

For what it's worth, this truck isn't rusty. Everything has pulled off "easily". But this tube nut is on TIGHT. Am I missing something or do I just go at it?. I'm using a 7/16 Snap-on line tool and oil, and I'm about ready to put a pipe on it, which probably nuts-up the nut and I'd rather not. Come to think of it, maybe I'll hit it with some heat.


EDIT: Sorry, you put heat on it . YIKES!

Thank you.

[HO455]

Brake fittings can rust on the inside from moisture in the fluid. I would go the propane torch route, but do to the dangers involved I generally would not recommend it for someone else, but since your going down that road. Please take care not to burn the hose (Or the truck!) Get some of that canned air (for cleaning computers) so after you heat the fitting on the hose side you can spray the fitting on the tube to cool it fast. If you spray the canned air inverted it comes out liquid and very cold. Have your wrenches ready and go for it. If your replacing the hose you can put a pair of vice grips on that fitting to keep it from trying to spin in the bracket.
Good luck.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by HO455

Brake fittings can rust on the inside from moisture in the fluid. I would go the propane torch route, but do to the dangers involved I generally would not recommend it for someone else, but since your going down that road. Please take care not to burn the hose (Or the truck!) Get some of that canned air (for cleaning computers) so after you heat the fitting on the hose side you can spray the fitting on the tube to cool it fast. If you spray the canned air inverted it comes out liquid and very cold. Have your wrenches ready and go for it. If your replacing the hose you can put a pair of vice grips on that fitting to keep it from trying to spin in the bracket.
Good luck.

I ended up using a heat gun. It didn't require much. I didn't think to cool the tube, the tube nuts are susceptible to heat? Yeah, I'm pulling the hose too. Thanks for the info.

[Andy4639]

They are a pain in the you know what to get off. I took mine off with the bed on it was tough but I got it finally.

[rockyrivermark]

Originally Posted by Andy4639

They are a pain in the you know what to get off. I took mine off with the bed on it was tough but I got it finally.

I recently did my front hoses. Wouldn't budge with a flare wrench and PB blaster.
Took a little heat from small propane torch. Came right off, just don't over do it with the heat.
You want to beat the part that the bolt goes into. Expand that with heat.
Mark

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

I still don't own a torch. Course there's the suspension to pull yet, but I suspect if heat is needed the heat gun will do. Lucky my first build isn't rusted up, "I've made" this difficult enough. Something to be said for mostly stationary in a dry garage. I haven't even washed the body in 20ish years.

[toolboxchev]

Sounds like you have got it done. Heat almost always works taking old rusty nuts and bolt off. If heat alone does not do it, Try hitting it with a garden hose for the cooling a few cycles.

After that Heat/Cool cycle thing does not work after 3 or more tries I break out the IMPACT. Whether its the Hammer Socket, Air Impact, or Hammer and Wrench.

I have yet to lose, the real rusturds get cut off wheel.

[MARKDTN]

Vise Grips?

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

It was just by chance the connections before the OP were easy. Since then I put heat on both connections on the rear distribution hose, one rear brake tube, and all of the front brake tubes. Post #2 wasn't kidding, must be moisture in the lines.

Bet my 72 would be a real blast. The lines are crusty, which bodes well with the state of the cab. The tubes on the project will look like new once the paint is removed. Less the rear lines anyway, because someone stripped the nuts for me.

Originally Posted by toolboxchev

Sounds like you have got it done. Heat almost always works taking old rusty nuts and bolt off. If heat alone does not do it, Try hitting it with a garden hose for the cooling a few cycles.

After that Heat/Cool cycle thing does not work after 3 or more tries I break out the IMPACT. Whether its the Hammer Socket, Air Impact, or Hammer and Wrench.

I have yet to lose, the real rusturds get cut off wheel.

Tell me about it. I took my factory aux. tank off my 72. Nearly everything had to drilled or cut. That truck comes way of too close to the Pacific Ocean. I don't remember the city. California someplace.

Originally Posted by MARKDTN

Vise Grips?

Sure, if the nuts are already gone. They work great for pulling the clip off the brake hose brackets.

[Killer Bee]

professional advice;
cut and replace.. brake fluid is hygroscopic, no telling what lies inside the walls of them there tubes and all..

wasted effort saving non serviceable parts..

non-professional advice;
if must keep, soak in mopar, kroil, blaster, etc. and apply steady force with sharp flare nut tools..

rotate backup/working wrench to comfortable squeeze and hang on..

the gentle stretching will work the penetrant into threads and they'll usually give eventually..

hammering, yanking, cursing, etc.. all more wasted effort..

good luck!

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by Killer Bee

professional advice;
cut and replace.. brake fluid is hygroscopic, no telling what lies inside the walls of them there tubes and all..

wasted effort saving non serviceable parts..

non-professional advice;
if must keep, soak in mopar, kroil, blaster, etc. and apply steady force with sharp flare nut tools..

rotate backup/working wrench to comfortable squeeze and hang on..

the gentle stretching will work the penetrant into threads and they'll usually give eventually..

hammering, yanking, cursing, etc.. all more wasted effort..

good luck!

Can I ask where you recommend for tube replacements? In-line Tube maybe?

[In The Ten Ring]

ugh.......when I take my truck over to the shop to get the A arms replaced I might have the guy replace all the brake lines also.

I wish I was nearby you brother, I'd love to come over and help. I've been on a diet and been working out, I'm much more able to fit under trucks now and more flexible to do it faster.

Try a soldering iron....you might could heat it up enough that way to break that rust hold. It would take longer but be less annoying than a heat gun.

[HO455]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

I ended up using a heat gun. It didn't require much. I didn't think to cool the tube, the tube nuts are susceptible to heat? Yeah, I'm pulling the hose too. Thanks for the info.

The tube nuts are OK with heat, but you want the inner piece of the stuck components to shrink with cold and the outer piece to expand with heat. Hopefully then you can loosen the pieces.

[HO455]

Originally Posted by MARKDTN

Vise Grips?

Last ditch use only. This is the most likely result.

[Killer Bee]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

Can I ask where you recommend for tube replacements? In-line Tube maybe?

the 'where' I can't say with certainty but I can expound on the 'what'

my professional background is heavy junk and I supervise several automotive trades for a few years now so there's that.. rolling up close to 30 years in this industry, boy I feel old saying that..

1. OEM preformed steel
2. steel tubing sticks - preflared or flare yourself and bend yourself
3. bendable alloy tubing - flare yourself and bends by hand
4. full-run hose [no strike code here but cross this option out]

we buy 99% OEM prebent assemblies but then I don't see much 60's and 70's on-highway vehicles.. the vendor you mentioned looks like a great option for OE-like steel assemblies discontinued by OEM..

my first and foremost preference will always be the steel tubing bent safely through the chassis where it needs to go.. making the longest continuous runs as possible with least number of connections possible.. if prebent assemblies aren't available, buy some decent tools and learn how to do it yourself.. small diameter stuff like this is simple and even if you fudge your bend points it may still get where it needs to go.. 3/4 .120 wall 304SS is a whole 'nother animal not for the novice..

I have ordered the alloy Fedhill type stuff for some projects where bending steel tubing was labor cost prohibitive due to complexity on specialized equipment and the lines were enclosed in frame channels.. stuff was pretty cool and easy to work with, my guys liked it but doesn't lie straight very well so it wouldn't look as neat as OE without a lot of tweaking.. that stuff is also vulnerable to external hazards so I'm not sold on it for for all applications and certainly not for trucks that have any intentions on working for a living.. hobby car or weekend putter that not really concerned about what it looks like underneath, maybe a viable solution since it is DOT..

I will also add that when you encounter line issues of this nature, the other brake components are likely affected to some degree.. tubing, junctions, hoses and cylinders are not that expensive to replace all together especially considering the critical nature of that system in the vehicle.. cut your budget elsewhere and spend appropriately on the safety systems..

brake fluid is hygroscopic and most brake components are steel exposed to weather on the outside.. corrosion is the nature of the beast and hydraulic brake systems seem to be one of the most neglected vehicle systems I have encountered.. proper maintenance and service and your factory brake system can last your lifetime..

good luck!

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by Killer Bee

the 'where' I can't say with certainty but I can expound on the 'what'

my professional background is heavy junk and I supervise several automotive trades for a few years now so there's that.. rolling up close to 30 years in this industry, boy I feel old saying that..

1. OEM preformed steel
2. steel tubing sticks - preflared or flare yourself and bend yourself
3. bendable alloy tubing - flare yourself and bends by hand
4. full-run hose [no strike code here but cross this option out]

we buy 99% OEM prebent assemblies but then I don't see much 60's and 70's on-highway vehicles.. the vendor you mentioned looks like a great option for OE-like steel assemblies discontinued by OEM..

my first and foremost preference will always be the steel tubing bent safely through the chassis where it needs to go.. making the longest continuous runs as possible with least number of connections possible.. if prebent assemblies aren't available, buy some decent tools and learn how to do it yourself.. small diameter stuff like this is simple and even if you fudge your bend points it may still get where it needs to go.. 3/4 .120 wall 304SS is a whole 'nother animal not for the novice..

I have ordered the alloy Fedhill type stuff for some projects where bending steel tubing was labor cost prohibitive due to complexity on specialized equipment and the lines were enclosed in frame channels.. stuff was pretty cool and easy to work with, my guys liked it but doesn't lie straight very well so it wouldn't look as neat as OE without a lot of tweaking.. that stuff is also vulnerable to external hazards so I'm not sold on it for for all applications and certainly not for trucks that have any intentions on working for a living.. hobby car or weekend putter that not really concerned about what it looks like underneath, maybe a viable solution since it is DOT..

I will also add that when you encounter line issues of this nature, the other brake components are likely affected to some degree.. tubing, junctions, hoses and cylinders are not that expensive to replace all together especially considering the critical nature of that system in the vehicle.. cut your budget elsewhere and spend appropriately on the safety systems..

brake fluid is hygroscopic and most brake components are steel exposed to weather on the outside.. corrosion is the nature of the beast and hydraulic brake systems seem to be one of the most neglected vehicle systems I have encountered.. proper maintenance and service and your factory brake system can last your lifetime..

good luck!

Gold star response, I really appreciate it. I prefer get through this restoration without unbent & non-flared tubing. 99% of these parts are news to me as is. I'm leaning toward Inline Tube pending references, but there are other options.

By the way, great timing. Removing paint & polish was just around the corner.