For those of you with 3OTT

[cjoenny89]

I have a 68 C20 327 with just under 48,000 original miles grandpa never drove it much. Anyway since I have been working on it and put it back together I have noticed that the clutch pedal is at the top of the stroke which make its difficult to drive with a shutter or smooth take off. everything else I have or have owned has had the clutch grab a few inched from the floor.
I never drove this truck in its heyday and when grandpa died dad parked it.
We have since had the engine out and did lots of things to get it back on the road after sitting for so long. Question being since we had the engine out did we mess up the alignment with the pedal? Was it always set up that way to grab at the top of the stroke and not by the floor? The clutch doesn't slip and it engages well. for those of you who have the 3 OTT is there any adjustment to make the clutch grab lower to the floor or is this normal?
Or is the pressure plate wore out at 48K miles and 50 years? Things got 100% better when I replaced the carrier bearing but my issue is where the clutch pedal grabs.
Thanks

[bill3rail]

If it is where the pedal grabs...
Mine grabbed just above the floor so I adjusted it out, now it grabs about 1/3 out.
Very simple adjustment.

Bill

[Steeveedee]

It will need to be adjusted. If the pedal is that high, you have no free pedal and you're going to prematurely wear out the throw out bearing, and possibly your pressure plate pressure is low enough that the clutch could be slipping, as well. This is true for any manual shift truck.

[cjoenny89]

do I need to lengthen the clutch rod or shorten it? I can't really lengthen it only about
1/2" that is all that is left on the rod for length.

[weim55]

Shorten it. There should be a visible return spring as part of the clutch linkage near where you are adjusting the rod. That's your free play- return spring. Adjust (shorten) the rod length until you have about an inch of free play in the pedal before the clutch spring pressure is felt (pedal gets hard). To expand on what Steeveedee stated:the free play allows a slight distance between the release bearing and the pressure plate so the release bearing only gets wear (used) when the clutch pedal is depressed.

Steve weim55 Colorado

[cjoenny89]

thank you I will give it a try tomorrow!

[cjoenny89]

adjusted the rod shortened it and made the pedal crab about 2/3 up and the top 1/3 free play. I might adjust it so it is a little lower to the floor so it is easier to control. If I can not drive it good then It is either that is the way it is or the clutch needs replaced. It is way better then it was.
I also moved it from the outside hole of the clutch fork to the inside hole closet to the bell housing. what are the benefits? I had it adjusted where I thought I wanted it then I moved it to the inside hole. I did notice it was a harder clutch pedal. is there any other reason?

[demian5]

Originally Posted by cjoenny89

adjusted the rod shortened it and made the pedal crab about 2/3 up and the top 1/3 free play. I might adjust it so it is a little lower to the floor so it is easier to control. If I can not drive it good then It is either that is the way it is or the clutch needs replaced. It is way better then it was.
I also moved it from the outside hole of the clutch fork to the inside hole closet to the bell housing. what are the benefits? I had it adjusted where I thought I wanted it then I moved it to the inside hole. I did notice it was a harder clutch pedal. is there any other reason?

The outside hole gives it more leverage to operate the fork. You basically just put a lot more strain on all the clutch linkage components at the same time. Move it back.

[cjoenny89]

Move it back to the outside clutch hole?

[Steeveedee]

You get more stroke inside the bell housing with the inside hole. This will reduce clutch pedal move distance, but will increase pedal effort, as you have discovered. If it was originally in the outer hole, put it back there. You will probably have to adjust the rod again after that. Make sure that you get the clutch to completely release when you push the pedal down. If you have to fight the shifter into gear, you aren't releasing the clutch enough. I don't want to go back through the thread to see, but if you don't have the Service Manual, one member has taken the time to upload electronic copies that should help with your efforts. I have one (original, complete with pages falling out), and even though I worked as a mechanic for many years, I sure don't know everything. That book is worth its weight in gold.

[In The Ten Ring]

Adding this thread to "the Truck Work" folder! Thanks.

I love my 3OTT. I haven't driven it in years but I don't recall it being hard to change gears in. Nice to know it can be adjusted. Glad you are keeping yours too.

Manual shifts have advantages over autos plus being more fun, easier on gas, etc. Combine the 3OTT with a bench seat and you have a great "date truck" that is good for carrying one extra person, sliding over easily, etc. 3OTT FOREVER!!!!