HELP PLEASE! Engine Trouble

[quentin hill]

Thank you 68gmsee, Yes sir it ran fine before the rebuild, the motor has also been recently rebuilt it only has about 1000miles on it. Everything seems to point to that wire!

[68gmsee]

Originally Posted by quentin hill

Thank you 68gmsee, Yes sir it ran fine before the rebuild, the motor has also been recently rebuilt it only has about 1000miles on it. Everything seems to point to that wire!

Just to make sure I read it right.

Are you are saying it ran fine for about 1000 miles then you had the carb rebuilt and right after the rebuild it stopped running. Correct?

If correct above, HEI does need full 12VDC but the wire may not be your problem. I'd check it anyway (a search will show you a lot of info on it).

As mentioned above, excessive flooding could be the problem.

HEI placement to make sure it's not 180 out. Remove the distributor cap, place the #1 piston at top of travel and in the compression stroke (both valves closed). HEI rotor should be pointing to #1 tower on the cap and harmonic balancer should be at "0" or TDC mark.

[quentin hill]

No sir it has about a 1000 miles on the motor and then just stopped, I thought it was a carb issues so I had it rebuilt and then it still wouldn't start not even with ether. The rotor to # 1 piston relation is correct

[davepl]

Originally Posted by quentin hill

No sir it has about a 1000 miles on the motor and then just stopped, I thought it was a carb issues so I had it rebuilt and then it still wouldn't start not even with ether. The rotor to # 1 piston relation is correct

Remember it could still be 180 degrees out unless you actually checked that you're on the compression stroke. It'll line up on the 0 mark twice each distributor rotation, and only one of those is correct.

Just to put it another way: you can have the timing mark at 0 on the balancer, rotor pointing at post #1, and STILL be 180F out. That's why you have to remove a plug, rotate the motor with your finger over (not in) the spark plug hole, and wait for compression to build behind your finger. Then advance the little bit left to line it up at 0, and THAT is top dead center.

[68gmsee]

[QUOTE=quentin hill;8011597]No sir it has about a 1000 miles on the motor and then just stopped, I thought it was a carb issues so I had it rebuilt and then it still wouldn't start not even with ether. The rotor to # 1 piston relation is correct[/QUOTE

On an engine with good compression, spark on all cylinders and timing is correct, just a small amount of gasoline poured into the throat of the carb should allow it to run for a short period. In your case, since it's been hard to diagnose, you may have to go back and check everything from the beginning.

Make sure you have good compression, spark on "all" cylinders (I use a timing light clamped on each wire so I can see if they're firing) and double check firing order.