BBC or SBC 1966 C-10

[telly444]

So my truck has a nice little 350 in it and I have ran across a good deal on a 468 BBC. my question is how complicated is it to swap out my 350 for the 468? I know my entire front end is out of 80's C-10 truck. would it be best to just to build a 383 or switch to BBC? my tranny is th350 with a b&M floor shifter.

[verdell]

The swap isn't complicated but whether or not to swap depends on how you plan to use or enjoy your truck. Then take a look at the cost of building a 383 vs the cost of the 468. It all depends on your real preference and what you want to spend in my opinion...either one would be fun!

[SuperCtruck]

Figure in 8 mpg for driving a 468 BB vs the cost of building a 383 stroker bottom end kit+ heads and maybe 12 mpg running a quadrajet ( small primarys) or say screw it and throw in a 6.0 Ls with cam swap and get 18+mpg with killer power and torque with quick throttle response

[telly444]

MPG LOL.... truck will be a hotrod/ weekend cruiser. My concerns are will my current perches work?, header clearances, and If I have to move the engine forward a bit so its not slammed against my firewall. then my drive train will need modification if so( tranny mounts, driveshaft length... ect) I do want the BBC I just want to know what's all involved. already own another small block and a LS7... always wanted a BBC

[PGSigns]

When I did the 396 in the 64 I had to fab the perches, The stock ones don't work. Had to ad some room to the fire wall with a hammer and used stock valve covers. You may have to move the entire setup forward some. We had the trans bolted to the engine when I did mine and just put it where it fit and made a new drive shaft. I used chevelle headers and they fit pretty good with the mounts we made. The weight balance on the truck was not real good and it did not like wet roads. The cool factor was there but the handling was not. I am doing the LS swap on the 65 and looking at ways to get some more weight off the nose. I am trying to make it a fun to drive truck.
Jimmy

[telly444]

very interesting. thank you for that.

[Captainfab]

A big block will need to be moved forward from the original small block location unless the firewall is modified. I recommend a different style of engine mount. The top flange of the frame will need to be trimmed back aprox 1/2" for header clearance. Those are just the basics.

[telly444]

thanks again guys. I'm leaning on a 427 sbc , just drop in and go.

[60-66]

Ive done this swap twice and like the guys above said , and the fact that you dont want to hammer the firewall , the stock 1968-1971 Chevy truck BB mounts cure that problem and move the engine forward making it a bolt in with stock parts. Little bit of on upper frame rail. I moved the crossmember forward , found a stock length drive shaft and 67-72 trans linkage. Pretty basic and clears firewall no problem.

[urmyboyblue]

The BBC will be more fun.

[60chevyjim]

that big block looks awesome and it fits good too .

[1strong63]

i have a BB in place of a SB and MPG are not likely to be a DD anymore, then i needed more cooling and more braking, bigger u joints (ask me how i know) heavier front springs, PS was a great addition too. it's fun to have plenty of HP and torque but think of what you want to do with your truck before spending your hard earned cash.
i'd love to drive as i used to DD my 63 so i'll swap out the BB to put something more commuting friendly.

[par4tom]

For what its worth, I did the 383 route and ramped up the cam and horsepower to the maximum I could get while still running pump gas and vacuum assisted brakes. The truck is plenty fast...pretty easy to get to fit and maintain. I'd say i'm probably in the 380 to 400 hp range.

If you do it for ego, go the big block route. Bit more work to fit but probably worth the extra power and torque.

About 6 months ago, I bought a 2015 Chevy SS with the LS3 and did a mild tune on it...430 hp and 425 foot pounds of torque. What an amazingly good motor! Now I'm kicking myself. I wish I had known that prior to going the 383 route because the LS3 has completely won me over...and for not too much more than what you'll spend to deck out a 383...

Best,
Tom

[Afirehawk1]

Originally Posted by 60-66

Ive done this swap twice and like the guys above said , and the fact that you dont want to hammer the firewall , the stock 1968-1971 Chevy truck BB mounts cure that problem and move the engine forward making it a bolt in with stock parts. Little bit of on upper frame rail. I moved the crossmember forward , found a stock length drive shaft and 67-72 trans linkage. Pretty basic and clears firewall no problem.

Which headers did you use?

[LostMy65]

Whenever I weigh costs, I use something like this :
http://www.mpghead.com

['63GENIII]

I had the chance to go with an LQ9 and for whatever reason traded it for this L29. I don't regret it for a second but I did have a 396 in the truck to start. Long ago I changed to disc brakes, overdrive which make the old nag a pleasure to drive. Would I have stayed with a SB if it came with one? Cant say for sure. Might have gone the LS route. Wanted to be a little different.

That said, a lot of good advise has been offered up if you do swap.

Disc brakes - modern 2 circuit system should be standard. Especially if you are upgrading the power plant.

Overdrive - Makes most any engine you put in it more streetable and possibly more fun to drive.

Big block - Move the darned thing forward an inch! Its only an inch, been documented a million times and if I had to do it again I would so I wouldnt be kicking myself in the posterior every time I need to adjust my valves!

[60-66]

Originally Posted by Afirehawk1

Which headers did you use?

I used Sanderson Headers , tighter fit to the body and superior flanges to the head , no leaks.

[verdell]

I agree with Par4tom on this. I too went with a 383 and some extra goodies thrown in and it's runs great. But I rode in a friend's '84 GMC Sierra 1/2 ton 2wd with a cammed 6.0 LQ4 and instantly wished I had gone that route instead. My brother pulled out his 468 BBC just last year and stuck in a 5.3 with aftermarket heads, cam and long tube headers. He loves it...

[Afirehawk1]

Originally Posted by 60-66

I used Sanderson Headers , tighter fit to the body and superior flanges to the head , no leaks.

Do you recall which one?
I am finding a few but not sure which would fit the best without triming the frame.

[Captainfab]

You have to trim the frame for the engine mounts, so you may as well trim a little more for header clearance. I used '73-'87 headers on mine. Just had to trim the top flange of the frame like the '68+ frames are from the factory.

[Chevy Fleetside]

Here is the pain I put myself through to do mine. http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=259536

[60-66]

Originally Posted by Afirehawk1

Do you recall which one?
I am finding a few but not sure which would fit the best without triming the frame.

I used the C6 Sanderson header. Captain is correct about trimming the frame for the mounts. I've done this exact swap twice , just need to trim for the 1968-1971 BB frame mounts , headers clear the stock frame very nice. Here you can see how I trimmed the frame back to use the BB frame mounts. I just didn't want to beat or cut the firewall. I cut more of the frame than actually needed so it wasn't so obvious. A lot less could be cut if you wanted to return the frame back to original some day.

[Afirehawk1]

Originally Posted by 60-66

I used the C6 Sanderson header. Captain is correct about trimming the frame for the mounts. I've done this exact swap twice , just need to trim for the 1968-1971 BB frame mounts , headers clear the stock frame very nice. Here you can see how I trimmed the frame back to use the BB frame mounts. I just didn't want to beat or cut the firewall. I cut more of the frame than actually needed so it wasn't so obvious. A lot less could be cut if you wanted to return the frame back to original some day.

great info. any experience on a lowered suspension? i have 2.5 inch drop spindles and 4 inch rear drop springs. would these be too close to the ground for clearance?

[60-66]

Originally Posted by Afirehawk1

great info. any experience on a lowered suspension? i have 2.5 inch drop spindles and 4 inch rear drop springs. would these be too close to the ground for clearance?

This one I put the BB in is lowered 5 front and 7 rear , about as low as you can go on springs , they clear just fine. As I said earlier , they are tighter to the body or floor than most. I ran my exhaust through the frame also.

[rvrfoot]

Originally Posted by Afirehawk1

great info. any experience on a lowered suspension? i have 2.5 inch drop spindles and 4 inch rear drop springs. would these be too close to the ground for clearance?

Wow very nice motor.