R12 or R134 ?? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

69 air cab · 04-13-2004, 08:52 PM

Which do I need to do guys and gals.............for my A/C do I use R12 or go with R134? Pros and cons please. ThHanks for you help in advance. Oh.......is a 69 C10, 350

heldonss · 04-13-2004, 09:02 PM

R134= cheap and easy to find.

R12= very expensive if you find it!

*1972C10* · 04-13-2004, 09:42 PM

I ran 134a in a 72 3/4 ton it would get down to like 40 somthing degree's

1972ChevyGuy · 04-13-2004, 10:46 PM

I love R12, but you need a lisence to buy it and it aint too cheap. 134A on the other hand can be bought over the counter and installed fairly easily. IMO, R12 is a tad colder but its not really worth all the hassle and extra cash.

70c10 · 04-13-2004, 10:51 PM

I would go with 134a because of cost and no certification required to purchase. I have felt no difference in temp. I was at Sam's club recently and purchased a case of 134a for about $23. I also have about 25 lbs of R-12 left so I'm good to go for awhile.

mrein3 · 04-13-2004, 11:12 PM

As the temp heats up here in MN I'm about to finish my AC installation in my previously non/AC cab. I thought I'd be all alone on this one but I see everybody is with me - I'm going R134a in the truck. I too have a supply of R12 left but the cab space in a truck is small so it should work just fine.

If you go R134a with your stock POA valve make sure you adjust it for the newer refridgerant. Flush all the components out real good. Buy a new receiver/dryer. Pull a vacuum. Then fill it up.

Longhorn Man · 04-13-2004, 11:13 PM

There is also the freeze 12, an R-12 substitute. I don't know what all is involved with it, but I do know it is 184 bucks for 30 pounds, verses the 134A which is only 71 bucks for 30 pounds.

casey · 04-13-2004, 11:27 PM

my a/c man tells me R12 is superior to R134A because it carrys the oil in the freon alot better, specially when the system is a little low. if the system is low with R134A it will wear hard on the pump

rn2fine · 04-14-2004, 01:17 AM

R134a !!! With R-12 you will need to take out a 2nd mortgage every time you need to charge the system.

busterwivell · 04-14-2004, 12:54 PM

I put in a Vintage Air system in my 71 last summer. 134 works fine. Cooled my cab down quickly when temp was over 100.

*67Fleetsidedream* · 04-14-2004, 02:42 PM

134 is the way to go. Make sure you have the system evacuated and the old oil removed before you put in the 134. Make sure you also use the correct oil for the 134. The oil for the r12 and the 134 do not mix well and will solidify over time.

lewi · 04-14-2004, 02:47 PM

My stock AC is getting put back in next week with a new motor, pump is gone. What is the best setup without having to go to an aftermarket system????

I assume a new 134a compatible pump but what else? hoses?, dryer? etc.

I thought I had heard the 134a will seep thru hoses, is this true?

**smitty62** · 04-14-2004, 03:03 PM

Nothing wrong with R134. Everytime there's a change in something, you get a bunch of "conspiracy theorists" saying it's junk and going to ruin our trucks. I converted my '84 to R-134 three years ago and it still cooling like a champ in humid NC! I'm sure the guy from Columbus will be here saying it will blow up your compressor or make you impotent.

**smitty62** · 04-14-2004, 03:10 PM

If you have the old "original" hoses they will need to be changed. There is no "compatible" compressor--they are the same. The dryer should always be changed when you have the system apart. System will need flushed and different oil used.

boraxman · 04-14-2004, 04:41 PM

I have a unused 30lb bottle of R12 in my garage. It was a freebie. I would probably sell it if it wasnt for the license crap.

**StingRay** · 04-14-2004, 05:11 PM

Most older hoses actually don't need changing unless they are already leaking. Old hoses are seasoned and the voids in the molecular structure of the rubber are already plugged with residues of the old R12 system. All O-Rings however on all fittings MUST be changed out and the reciever dryer should be replaced as well. If the right oil is used it will be compatible with the old oil from the R12 system and likely won't cause any problems. I have a number of 80's vehicles that I have had sucessfully converted to 134 with no more than o-rings, reciever dryer, adapters and a good evacuation.

Longhorn Man · 04-14-2004, 06:42 PM

The guy from columbus already gave his 2 cents...

*1972C10* · 04-14-2004, 11:34 PM

There has been times i havent done nothing but vac out the old stuff and charge up some 12

I would suggest a new dryer and flushing the lines carb cleaner will work fine. Im soon to be putting a/c back on my 85 3/4 ton New dryer and new compressor lines since mine are bad and i should be 10-8

69ride · 04-14-2004, 11:50 PM

134a. no hydrocarbons, better for atmosphere and better on the wallet. you can put 134a right in your system that already had r-12 in it. there was some stuff called redtek that you could put in r-12 systems, but i don't know if it's still available. here in canada r12 goes for $80-$100 a pound.

you also have to be certified to work on either r12 or 134a, which i am luckily.

04-13-2004, 08:52 PM	#1
69 air cab Registered User Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Maryville, TN Posts: 477	R12 or R134 ?? Which do I need to do guys and gals.............for my A/C do I use R12 or go with R134? Pros and cons please. ThHanks for you help in advance. Oh.......is a 69 C10, 350

04-13-2004, 09:02 PM	#2
heldonss Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: SEMO Posts: 74	R134= cheap and easy to find. R12= very expensive if you find it! __________________ Current rides: 2007 Silverado VortecMax 1500 2007 Silverado Classic 1500 2004 GTO, 6spd 2003 Silverado 3500, 8.1 w/ Allison 2002 Camaro SS, 35th Ann., 6spd 2002 Silverado 2500, 6.0 1999 Buick Regal GS, 3800 SC 1997 Camaro Z28, 30th Ann. convertible 1991 GMC Syclone, #170 of 2998 1990 454 SS, 26,000 miles 1987 GMC 3500 Box Van 1972 Chevy C-10 short bed 1970 GMC Sierra Grande..2 owner 1968 Camaro RS/SS, 396/375 HP 1967 Chevy II Nova 1967 Camaro Convertible 1957 Chevy Truck

04-13-2004, 10:51 PM	#5
70c10 67-72 Addict! Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: The TAX State! Posts: 7,857	I would go with 134a because of cost and no certification required to purchase. I have felt no difference in temp. I was at Sam's club recently and purchased a case of 134a for about $23. I also have about 25 lbs of R-12 left so I'm good to go for awhile. __________________ Jim 1970 C/10 Fleetside w/Ghost Flames Lowered 4.5" front and 4" rear (Raked) 355/350 Turbo w/shift kit 10" Redneck Performance Verter w/2500 stall Hooker Super Comps part#2808-1 Performer RPM Air-Gap 12 Bolt w/3:73 gears- Eaton Posi Comp Cams XE262 with 1.6 Crane Energizers, Road Demon 625 and Brodix IK 180 heads

04-13-2004, 11:12 PM	#6
mrein3 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Center City, MN, USA Posts: 3,253	As the temp heats up here in MN I'm about to finish my AC installation in my previously non/AC cab. I thought I'd be all alone on this one but I see everybody is with me - I'm going R134a in the truck. I too have a supply of R12 left but the cab space in a truck is small so it should work just fine. If you go R134a with your stock POA valve make sure you adjust it for the newer refridgerant. Flush all the components out real good. Buy a new receiver/dryer. Pull a vacuum. Then fill it up. __________________ '70 cab, '71 chassis, 383, TH350, NP205. '71 Malibu convertible '72 Malibu hard top Center City, MN

04-14-2004, 01:17 AM	#9
rn2fine Registered User Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Arizona Posts: 157	R134a !!! With R-12 you will need to take out a 2nd mortgage every time you need to charge the system. __________________ 72 C10 Burb 350 700R4 70 C20 LWB 350 Crate TH400 68 Chevelle

04-13-2004, 09:42 PM	#3
1972C10 Account Suspended Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Texas Posts: 2,686	I ran 134a in a 72 3/4 ton it would get down to like 40 somthing degree's

04-13-2004, 10:46 PM	#4
1972ChevyGuy Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Kannapolis, NC Posts: 552	I love R12, but you need a lisence to buy it and it aint too cheap. 134A on the other hand can be bought over the counter and installed fairly easily. IMO, R12 is a tad colder but its not really worth all the hassle and extra cash.

04-13-2004, 11:13 PM	#7
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	There is also the freeze 12, an R-12 substitute. I don't know what all is involved with it, but I do know it is 184 bucks for 30 pounds, verses the 134A which is only 71 bucks for 30 pounds.

04-13-2004, 11:27 PM	#8
casey Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Kelowna B.C. Canada Posts: 2,048	my a/c man tells me R12 is superior to R134A because it carrys the oil in the freon alot better, specially when the system is a little low. if the system is low with R134A it will wear hard on the pump

04-14-2004, 12:54 PM	#10
busterwivell Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Sahuarita, AZ USA Posts: 2,033	I put in a Vintage Air system in my 71 last summer. 134 works fine. Cooled my cab down quickly when temp was over 100. __________________ Bill - Tucson, AZ 47 Chevrolet 2 dr sedan 56 Chevrolet 210 2 dr sedan 66 Chevrolet Malibu 2 dr 4 speed 71 Chevrolet C30 Longhorn 86 Chevrolet Monte Carlo SS (Sold) 01 Chevrolet Tahoe IM - BUSTERWIVE@aol.com

04-14-2004, 02:42 PM	#11
67Fleetsidedream Wiseass secured himself a BAN Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: MOON!!! Posts: 2,282	134 is the way to go. Make sure you have the system evacuated and the old oil removed before you put in the 134. Make sure you also use the correct oil for the 134. The oil for the r12 and the 134 do not mix well and will solidify over time.

04-14-2004, 02:47 PM	#12
lewi Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Redding California Posts: 223	My stock AC is getting put back in next week with a new motor, pump is gone. What is the best setup without having to go to an aftermarket system???? I assume a new 134a compatible pump but what else? hoses?, dryer? etc. I thought I had heard the 134a will seep thru hoses, is this true? __________________ 1971 Chevy Cheyenne 383/350 LWB 2wd Built to use, and look good.

04-14-2004, 03:03 PM	#13
smitty62 Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: North Carolina Posts: 1,234	Nothing wrong with R134. Everytime there's a change in something, you get a bunch of "conspiracy theorists" saying it's junk and going to ruin our trucks. I converted my '84 to R-134 three years ago and it still cooling like a champ in humid NC! I'm sure the guy from Columbus will be here saying it will blow up your compressor or make you impotent. __________________ Stepsides look like real trucks! Smitty Last edited by smitty62; 04-14-2004 at 03:06 PM.

04-14-2004, 03:10 PM	#14
smitty62 Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: North Carolina Posts: 1,234	If you have the old "original" hoses they will need to be changed. There is no "compatible" compressor--they are the same. The dryer should always be changed when you have the system apart. System will need flushed and different oil used. __________________ Stepsides look like real trucks! Smitty

04-14-2004, 04:41 PM	#15
boraxman Keepin an eye out Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: So.Cal Posts: 3,921	I have a unused 30lb bottle of R12 in my garage. It was a freebie. I would probably sell it if it wasnt for the license crap. __________________ 1970 Chevy C10 SWB 5.3 1996 Toyota Tacoma SR5 4x4 2007 Vespa GTS 250 Scooter ZIP 91351



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04-14-2004, 05:11 PM	#16
StingRay Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Saskatoon,SK,Canada Posts: 2,476	Most older hoses actually don't need changing unless they are already leaking. Old hoses are seasoned and the voids in the molecular structure of the rubber are already plugged with residues of the old R12 system. All O-Rings however on all fittings MUST be changed out and the reciever dryer should be replaced as well. If the right oil is used it will be compatible with the old oil from the R12 system and likely won't cause any problems. I have a number of 80's vehicles that I have had sucessfully converted to 134 with no more than o-rings, reciever dryer, adapters and a good evacuation. __________________ Saskatoon, Saskatchewan Canada

04-14-2004, 06:42 PM	#17
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	The guy from columbus already gave his 2 cents...

04-14-2004, 11:34 PM	#18
1972C10 Account Suspended Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Texas Posts: 2,686	There has been times i havent done nothing but vac out the old stuff and charge up some 12 I would suggest a new dryer and flushing the lines carb cleaner will work fine. Im soon to be putting a/c back on my 85 3/4 ton New dryer and new compressor lines since mine are bad and i should be 10-8

04-14-2004, 11:50 PM	#19
69ride All Go, No Show Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Creighton SK Posts: 286	134a. no hydrocarbons, better for atmosphere and better on the wallet. you can put 134a right in your system that already had r-12 in it. there was some stuff called redtek that you could put in r-12 systems, but i don't know if it's still available. here in canada r12 goes for $80-$100 a pound. you also have to be certified to work on either r12 or 134a, which i am luckily.

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