Cab help needed!!!

[Robznob11]

Can anyone tell me how much space is between the inner and outer cab roof? Im going to install a headliner! Screws would be nice and easy, but i dont want to risk jacking up the paint or putting a hole all the way through to the outside!!!!
Pics would be awesome, if some one has cut into one before!!!

[68c10airstream]

If you removed your visor, i think you could use a pic in the screw holes to test the depth, or take the dome light assembly out and look above would be my first attempts.

[AussieinNC]

Most beadliners attach with screws thru the sun visor mounts and four very short screws along the rear window area only...

Some of the members here may have actual dimensions and safe locations...see the link below:

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cb/full.aspx?Page=67

[Robznob11]

Mine is a roddoors headliner and only covers the center portion! I figure i can put a bit stop on and get away with 6 screws and velcro! But not sure how much clearance is behind there!

[randy500]

The center of the roof only has about 1/4 inch or less clearance

[Jcfcamaro]

Get it up where it needs to be then drill a small pilot hole and use that as your depth gauge.

[slosteve]

Originally Posted by Robznob11

Mine is a roddoors headliner and only covers the center portion! !

My problem exactly! I've had the headliner for years and installed it with their supplied Velcro. And I cleaned the area thoroughly but I guess the stickum on the Velcro backs couldn't take the heat. Tried it 3 times, adding more Velcro each time - it fell every time. I recently pulled it out of it's box to try again. Tried using good sized magnets contact cemented to the thing but they wouldn't even grab on. So now I'm thinking Nutserts. I like jcfcamaro's suggestion. Going to try it tomorrow.

Thanks,
Steve

[AussieinNC]

The velco and magnets will all fail due to the transferred heat from the roof of the cab.

I have had good success so far, but it takes some work:

I totally strip the inside of the cab roof area back to bare metal...then scuff it up really well with a flap wheel...

I then add at least two layers of heat shield mat. Brand doesnt matter, the thinner the better for each layer as it conforms better to the shapes of the surrounds.

I then install one of the full envelope head liners that include the front and rear attachment areas...I have just installed one from LMC...(yes I know!)
38-2043-BL with speakers...
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cb/full.aspx?Page=67

It worked out really well...it is secured by the front area by the sun visors and a couple of screws and at the rear by short 1/4" screws and caps along the back. The unit is slightly bowed upwards by design, so it flexes against the middle of the roof to stop vibrations.

Hope this helps...

[AussieinNC]

For those thinking of drilling and screwing on the headliner...BEWARE !!!

The area of the majority of where the center type liners is single layer sheet metal...

Drilling holes will result in damage to the roof exterior shell.

Please be very careful....before thinking of drilling in that open area.

[69_Chevy_C10]

There is more room in the visor area than directly in the center areas. That being said there is definitely not much room. Here are a couple of pics of my roof repair. I spray Lizard Skin on mine and I think that it is going to work well. Heat transfer with the cab sitting in the sun seems like its doing the trick. I can try to get a measurement for you if you give me a specific area.

[slosteve]

Originally Posted by 69_Chevy_C10

. I can try to get a measurement for you if you give me a specific area.

The area that I am concerned with is where the original headliner (on optioned cabs) goes and/or the recessed area in the metal ceiling with the ribs in it. I would like to know the distance between the non-ribbed part of that area and the actual top sheet metal.
The work you are doing on your cab is outstanding. Was the original top rusted?

Steve

[slosteve]

Originally Posted by AussieinNC

I totally strip the inside of the cab roof area back to bare metal...then scuff it up really well with a flap wheel...

I then add at least two layers of heat shield mat. Brand doesnt matter, the thinner the better for each layer as it conforms better to the shapes of the surrounds.
:

Is the reason for stripping the roof area to more securely attach the heat shield?

[Robznob11]

Well looks like screws are out of the question😣

[AussieinNC]

Originally Posted by slosteve

Is the reason for stripping the roof area to more securely attach the heat shield?

I find stripping the inside of the roof and using a flap wheel gives a slightly course finish that the heat shield grips better to...

I have tried center styles of headliner and they usually have issues with separation...there is a trim kit available from some vendors...havent seen one up close yet, but I suspect it uses really short screws to pin it to the bottom of the ridged areas inside the roof. Short, like 1/4" long max...

I used the full fit style now for my last build...it attached under the sun visors and along the front channel and along the rear roll area...I set my drill stop to 1/4"...and used a small air drill...nice and light...between the two layers of heat mat and the slight bend in the headliner, it fits up nice and snug...

[81turbota]

You could always bond some screw bosses to the roof of the cab. Some 1/4" thick tapped bosses with 8-32 or 10-24 thread. Prep surface really well and bond with an aero epoxy such as 9394 Hysol and that sucker is NOT coming off.

I am not familiar with the clearance dimensions between the two panels, but based on 69 c10's pictures you could also cut holes in the interior panel to recess mount the bosses. You would have to use a hole saw without a pilot bit or very careful dremel work. You could then mount the 1/4" boss using the structural adhesive and have it be flush with the surface.