Stubborn tie rod end removal - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Ol'Blue70 · 09-03-2017, 10:36 PM

I've been working on the steering of my '70 C20. I'm replacing all the tie rods, and have gotten three of the four out using the traditional methods (tie rod separator fork, loosening the castle nut and tapping it with a hammer, etc.), but the drivers outer tie rod is being very stubborn. I've soaked it with penetrating oil several times. I've hammered on it for over an hour. I even got out my propane torch and heated it up, but nothing seems to be working.

Does anyone have any good ideas?

**truckster** · 09-03-2017, 10:40 PM

I've recently been there. My solution was just more heat. Keep applying the heat and it should eventually come off. Sorry I don't have an easier answer.

**BlueBullet** · 09-03-2017, 10:49 PM

Have you tried pounding the side of where end goes in. If I can't get it to pop with fork give it a good wrap on the side

67swb72klb · 09-03-2017, 11:00 PM

I use a 3 or 4 Lb hammer and hit it on the side like said above...

saxart · 09-03-2017, 11:13 PM

I had one that gave me problems. Hit it for probably 20 minutes straight. Out of frustration I put down the 3lb hammer and picked up a 5lb hammer. One pop and it came loose. I'm not sure what that was all about...

KQQL IT · 09-03-2017, 11:23 PM

Bigger hammer.

Ol'Blue70 · 09-04-2017, 12:07 AM

Thanks guys! Looks like I need a bigger hammer, and I'll start hitting it on the side.

**Stocker** · 09-04-2017, 12:41 AM

No hot wrench so I pounded on 'em with a BFH, no luck at all. Then I bought, ruined, and returned a pickle fork from NAPA, then one from Oreilly's. Beat on 'em with an 8-pound sledge and the forks just spread apart. Then the heads came off. Got the rental (free loaner as it turned out) pickle fork from Oreilly's. It was thicker heavier and stronger. Took a few good whacks and the job was done. Good luck with yours, those devils can be stubborn.

ShortCST · 09-04-2017, 03:05 AM

Heat, penetrating lubricant, big hammer... Nothing worked. Pickle fork did nothing but frustrate me further. This was what saved me in the end:

So easy.

KQQL IT · 09-04-2017, 03:08 AM

Or the always fun for the neighbors, the almighty air hammer.
Noise and destruction for days.

toolboxchev · 09-04-2017, 04:04 AM

Acetylene Torch, then cold water hose. Repeat three times and call the doctor in the morning.

Works every time.

lutronjim · 09-05-2017, 04:50 PM

Mechanic friend of mine said that in absence of heat, use two heavy hammers - one held against one side and then strike the opposite side.

Alex V. · 09-05-2017, 05:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by saxart

I had one that gave me problems. Hit it for probably 20 minutes straight. Out of frustration I put down the 3lb hammer and picked up a 5lb hammer. One pop and it came loose. I'm not sure what that was all about...

A bigger hammer can seriously cut it where a smaller one won't. I'd probably put a jack stand under the knuckle as close to the TRE as possible, so the suspension and knuckle casting doesn't give when hit and the force isn't all going through that casting, and smack the stud end pretty hard with a sledge hammer.

81turbota · 09-06-2017, 09:00 AM

With the right tools they'll come apart. Only once have I had to cut a ball joint and take it to a shop for removal.

95% of the time (for me), this tool will take care of tie rods. I use my 1/2 drive electric impact to operate it. Using one of these with a hand ratchet doesn't work nearly as well, the impact makes a huge difference. Get it tight and then give the surrounding knuckle a few whacks with a 2lb hammer and then a little more persuasion from the impact will pop them loose. I had the tie rod and drag link off of my 71 blazer in 10 minutes.

Wear safety glasses!!!! the cheap version of one of these separators broke on me and sent a small shard flying. Grease the threads or you run the risk of galling it up from the impact. Buy USA made if you can.

For the other 5%, you'll need heat and a bigger hammer as mentioned. 4lb hand sledges are great. Jam a pickle fork in there, heat it up, beat on the pickle fork, a few solid hits on the surrounding knuckle, apply heat, beat fork repeat. Keep the castle nut on a few threads for anything that's under spring load.

Good luck!

TheRocket · 09-06-2017, 12:32 PM

When you put it back together, do what a mechanic did to my '71. Weld that castle nut to the tie rod end.

No kidding. Other mechanics tell me he welds lots of things he shouldn't weld.

09-03-2017, 10:36 PM	#1
Ol'Blue70 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Iowa Posts: 13	Stubborn tie rod end removal I've been working on the steering of my '70 C20. I'm replacing all the tie rods, and have gotten three of the four out using the traditional methods (tie rod separator fork, loosening the castle nut and tapping it with a hammer, etc.), but the drivers outer tie rod is being very stubborn. I've soaked it with penetrating oil several times. I've hammered on it for over an hour. I even got out my propane torch and heated it up, but nothing seems to be working. Does anyone have any good ideas? __________________ Ol'Blue70 1970 Chevrolet C20 - 250/SM465/4.11 - grandfather's truck - long term restoration 1999 Chevrolet K1500 Classic - 5.0/4L60E/4x4 - daily driver 1969 AMC Rebel SST - 232/3spd auto - project/show car 1973 John Deere 110 - K181 Kohler 8 hp/ 38'' deck

09-03-2017, 10:40 PM	#2
truckster Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Orem, Utah Posts: 7,976	Re: Stubborn tie rod end removal I've recently been there. My solution was just more heat. Keep applying the heat and it should eventually come off. Sorry I don't have an easier answer. __________________ I have sworn upon the altar of God, eternal hostility against every form of tyranny over the mind of man. - Thomas Jefferson

09-03-2017, 10:49 PM	#3
BlueBullet Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Danvers Minnesota Posts: 967	Re: Stubborn tie rod end removal Have you tried pounding the side of where end goes in. If I can't get it to pop with fork give it a good wrap on the side __________________ 1972 K10 SWB wife's driver 1967 Pontiac GTO Big Bird - 1972 Longhorn K30 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=753294

09-03-2017, 11:00 PM	#4
67swb72klb Registered User Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: livingston co.mi Posts: 2,470	Re: Stubborn tie rod end removal I use a 3 or 4 Lb hammer and hit it on the side like said above... __________________ California 65 GTO---Texas 64 burb 283 ---Oklahoma 67 CST SWB BBW wood bed 327 2004r---New Mexico 72 k10 350 350 auto---Georga 72 short step project

09-03-2017, 11:13 PM	#5
saxart Registered User Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: St. Croix River Valley, WI Posts: 795	Re: Stubborn tie rod end removal I had one that gave me problems. Hit it for probably 20 minutes straight. Out of frustration I put down the 3lb hammer and picked up a 5lb hammer. One pop and it came loose. I'm not sure what that was all about... __________________ Meet "Old Roy": http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=707801

09-03-2017, 11:23 PM	#6
KQQL IT At the body shop. Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Land of fruits and nuts. Posts: 5,254	Re: Stubborn tie rod end removal Bigger hammer. __________________ " That didnt make it any newer " " Dont antique the equipment "

09-04-2017, 12:07 AM	#7
Ol'Blue70 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Iowa Posts: 13	Re: Stubborn tie rod end removal Thanks guys! Looks like I need a bigger hammer, and I'll start hitting it on the side. __________________ Ol'Blue70 1970 Chevrolet C20 - 250/SM465/4.11 - grandfather's truck - long term restoration 1999 Chevrolet K1500 Classic - 5.0/4L60E/4x4 - daily driver 1969 AMC Rebel SST - 232/3spd auto - project/show car 1973 John Deere 110 - K181 Kohler 8 hp/ 38'' deck

09-04-2017, 12:41 AM	#8
Stocker 20' Daredevil (Ret) Join Date: May 2003 Location: Jefferson State Posts: 13,722	Re: Stubborn tie rod end removal No hot wrench so I pounded on 'em with a BFH, no luck at all. Then I bought, ruined, and returned a pickle fork from NAPA, then one from Oreilly's. Beat on 'em with an 8-pound sledge and the forks just spread apart. Then the heads came off. Got the rental (free loaner as it turned out) pickle fork from Oreilly's. It was thicker heavier and stronger. Took a few good whacks and the job was done. Good luck with yours, those devils can be stubborn. __________________ - Mike - 1972 K20 LWB 350/350/205 RIP El Jay

09-04-2017, 03:05 AM	#9
ShortCST Registered User Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Orange County, CA Posts: 170	Re: Stubborn tie rod end removal Heat, penetrating lubricant, big hammer... Nothing worked. Pickle fork did nothing but frustrate me further. This was what saved me in the end: So easy. Attached Images Last edited by ShortCST; 09-04-2017 at 03:08 AM. Reason: More helpful

09-04-2017, 03:08 AM	#10
KQQL IT At the body shop. Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Land of fruits and nuts. Posts: 5,254	Re: Stubborn tie rod end removal Or the always fun for the neighbors, the almighty air hammer. Noise and destruction for days. __________________ " That didnt make it any newer " " Dont antique the equipment "

09-04-2017, 04:04 AM	#11
toolboxchev Registered User Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: 2nd left past the stump on a dirt road. Posts: 2,629	Re: Stubborn tie rod end removal Acetylene Torch, then cold water hose. Repeat three times and call the doctor in the morning. Works every time.

09-05-2017, 04:50 PM	#12
lutronjim Registered User Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Dunwoody,Ga Posts: 443	Re: Stubborn tie rod end removal Mechanic friend of mine said that in absence of heat, use two heavy hammers - one held against one side and then strike the opposite side.

09-06-2017, 09:00 AM	#14
81turbota Registered User Join Date: Jul 2017 Location: Pasadena, CA Posts: 44	Re: Stubborn tie rod end removal With the right tools they'll come apart. Only once have I had to cut a ball joint and take it to a shop for removal. 95% of the time (for me), this tool will take care of tie rods. I use my 1/2 drive electric impact to operate it. Using one of these with a hand ratchet doesn't work nearly as well, the impact makes a huge difference. Get it tight and then give the surrounding knuckle a few whacks with a 2lb hammer and then a little more persuasion from the impact will pop them loose. I had the tie rod and drag link off of my 71 blazer in 10 minutes. Wear safety glasses!!!! the cheap version of one of these separators broke on me and sent a small shard flying. Grease the threads or you run the risk of galling it up from the impact. Buy USA made if you can. For the other 5%, you'll need heat and a bigger hammer as mentioned. 4lb hand sledges are great. Jam a pickle fork in there, heat it up, beat on the pickle fork, a few solid hits on the surrounding knuckle, apply heat, beat fork repeat. Keep the castle nut on a few threads for anything that's under spring load. Good luck! __________________ James 1971 Blazer 350/SM465/NP205 1966 Chevelle 468/TH400 2009 Corvette Z06 built LS7

09-06-2017, 12:32 PM	#15
TheRocket Registered User Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Goodwell, OK Posts: 63	Re: Stubborn tie rod end removal When you put it back together, do what a mechanic did to my '71. Weld that castle nut to the tie rod end. No kidding. Other mechanics tell me he welds lots of things he shouldn't weld.



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