Maybe I don't want to take this anchor off?

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Figured to take this anchor off to finish this stuff separately. I hit these twice last night with WD-40, and just heated it up with a heat gun. Nothing moved except a tendon, maybe a joint or two (HA!).

Am I missing something (see captions). Maybe I should just leave it, finish the plates with the anchors on. Thanks

[jocko]

There's no reason to remove the spring anchor (or whatever it's called) - but if you really wanted or needed to, you have to bend the thin retainer (left arrow) flat (parallel to the backing plate - just insert a large flat blade screwdriver between it and the anchor hex face it's retaining and pry outward, then tap flat with a drift (or screwdriver) to get it out of the way of the hex) and then try to remove the anchor. It doesn't come off until the anchor does, but it does have to be bent out of the way to remove the anchor. Apparently it's doing its job very well!

[saxart]

You're going to need some REAL penetrating oil, and some REAL heat.

WD-40 is made for displacing moisture or very light surface protection from rust. It doesn't work very well as a penetrant. Get yourself some PB Blaster or Kroil. Soak it for a couple of days, then get some real heat. A heat gun gets "warm", you need something that gets HOT, like cherry red hot. A small hand-held MAP gas torch would do the trick.

Bend back that tab, then try what I explained above and it will come off. You may need a breaker bar and a cheater pipe as well.

Good luck!

[jocko]

keep in mind that kinda torqueing can move a vehicle if not safely and squarely supported on a few jackstands.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by jocko

There's no reason to remove the spring anchor (or whatever it's called) - but if you really wanted or needed to, you have to bend the thin retainer (left arrow) flat (parallel to the backing plate - just insert a large flat blade screwdriver between it and the anchor hex face it's retaining and pry outward, then tap flat with a drift (or screwdriver) to get it out of the way of the hex) and then try to remove the anchor. It doesn't come off until the anchor does, but it does have to be bent out of the way to remove the anchor. Apparently it's doing its job very well!

That makes sense. At the moment the retainer shouldn't be holding up anything, because there's a pinch of space. I was using an open-ended wrench.

Originally Posted by saxart

You're going to need some REAL penetrating oil, and some REAL heat.

WD-40 is made for displacing moisture or very light surface protection from rust. It doesn't work very well as a penetrant. Get yourself some PB Blaster or Kroil. Soak it for a couple of days, then get some real heat. A heat gun gets "warm", you need something that gets HOT, like cherry red hot. A small hand-held MAP gas torch would do the trick.

Bend back that tab, then try what I explained above and it will come off. You may need a breaker bar and a cheater pipe as well.

Good luck!

I recently watched a video with a concoction of trans. fluid and acetone, that seems to work real well. I should have the PB blaster. Yet to use a torch on this truck, don't even own one.....yet. I have the rear leafs to do yet. I'm leaning toward just leaving it. EDIT: I can't leave well enough alone, so I'm going to go at it. No sign of PB blaster in the garage, as suggested, but I hit it with liquid wrench. Honestly, I think it's just a form of WD-40. Time to make up my own. Here's that video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KNbw8V8HZDY

Originally Posted by jocko

keep in mind that kinda torqueing can move a vehicle if not safely and squarely supported on a few jackstands.

Thanks for that reminder. It's currently on four sets of jack stands.


Thanks for letting me know all.

[toolboxchev]

Have said it before will say it again. It has not moved in over 46 years, how easy do you think it wants to move.

I use a torch until red, then cold water hose. You can hear the rust popping off with that.

Stuff comes undone with a couple three or more of those cycles real easy.

[Steeveedee]

I wouldn't take it off unless the shoes had damaged it at their attach points or the end was worn enough that the springs can come off, personally.

[AussieinNC]

I use an 1 1/8" deep impact socket, bend back the retainer plate, place impact deep socket over the nut and smack the end of the socket with a 5 lb hammer. Then use a 1/2" electric impact gun to remove the bolt. Removed maybe 100 or so this way. I don't like heating the area as it is the spindle after all..

[truckster]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

That makes sense. At the moment the retainer shouldn't be holding up anything, because there's a pinch of space. I was using an open-ended wrench.

That retainer will hold a lot more than you think it will. The same type of retainer is used on some axle nuts, where failure would be catastrophic. They don't give up easily unless you bend them flat. That's what you need to do to have any chance of getting that off.

[LockDoc]

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I wouldn't try it with anything more than a 6 point socket. Anything else and you will round it off.

LockDoc

[saxart]

Originally Posted by jocko

keep in mind that kinda torqueing can move a vehicle if not safely and squarely supported on a few jackstands.

Good point Jocko!

Originally Posted by LockDoc

-
I wouldn't try it with anything more than a 6 point socket. Anything else and you will round it off.
LockDoc

Which brings up an interesting point... Why do you want to remove that anchor? If it's not damaged, just leave it. At least that way you know it's not going anywhere!

[FirstOwner69]

Those were probably the only parts with threads that I didn't remove when I did my frame-off. I saw absolutely no reason to remove them, and they were blasted along with the backing plates. Since then, I've seen several threads where people have been asking where to purchase them. I think the risk of breakage isn't worth the risk of removal.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by FirstOwner69

Those were probably the only parts with threads that I didn't remove when I did my frame-off. I saw absolutely no reason to remove them, and they were blasted along with the backing plates. Since then, I've seen several threads where people have been asking where to purchase them. I think the risk of breakage isn't worth the risk of removal.

I couldn't get the oil pressure fitting on the block off. Doesn't prevent removal, but someone damaged the hex too. I may have been the culprit. I sanded the damage best possible and that's good enough. I can paint around it.

Originally Posted by truckster

That retainer will hold a lot more than you think it will. The same type of retainer is used on some axle nuts, where failure would be catastrophic. They don't give up easily unless you bend them flat. That's what you need to do to have any chance of getting that off.

You are correct sir. I took another look, and the inside of that retainer is butt-up the nut.



Thanks for all the input. I've decided not to mess with it, but I do have some oil to clean up............ I'll call it rust prevention until frame prep.

[volksworld]

if its not broken dont fix it...seriously the basic rule of thumb for anything you have to remove with a torch is to throw it away...too much heat can compromise the strength of the steel and make it brittle...blast it and paint or powdercoat it...bend the tab a bit to get a good finish on both sides...if it gets rusty again in 20 years its inside the drum anyway

[In The Ten Ring]

I have had good luck with ZEP 45 and ZEP Twister, both are penetrating sprays (break free) but have never used those for anything more than the bolts on my truck's front end....largest bolts treated were the bumper and cab to frame bolts.

[AussieinNC]

On rears, it's not necessary to remove unless it's damaged. On fronts, you need to remove it to change out wheel cylinder.

[Freddo]

I had to remove mine on the front when I changed out my wheel cylinders. One of them was stuck tight. It took a six point socket, a breaker bar and a 6 foot steel pipe to get it loose but it did come loose. I wish that I would've had some heat to apply to it but didn't. I wasn't sure it was going to come off, but it finally did. If you have to change out the wheel cylinders you will have to get it off. Try using a long bar if you don't have heat.

[snipescastle2]

I changed my rear brakes to disc and had to remove the backing plates. I just used an impact wrench with some PB blaster penetrating oil.ditto on the six point socket for sure.
Ben