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09-13-2017, 10:22 PM
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#1 |
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Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 79
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Which should I grind?
I'm in the middle of the disc brake conversion and just replaced the upper and lower ball joints got the spindle in tighten down the castle nuts and I can't turn the steering wheel...
 So the question is do I grind down the spindle or the upper A arm?
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Mike 1960 C10 Short Step 235 w/ 3 on the tree 1999 Mazda Miata <- Track Car 2016 Chevrolet Colorado z71 2016 Chevrolet Traverse - Wifes Car 2014 Honda CBR500R <- Also A Dust Collector 2009 Suzuki GSXR600 <- Stolen 
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09-14-2017, 06:33 AM
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#2 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Fisherville ontario
Posts: 4
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Re: Which should I grind?
If you only need to take like an 1/8th inch then id start by grinding the a arm a little, that rolled steel is pretty tough. But are you sure you have the right parts here? Its just weird that its touching
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09-14-2017, 11:50 AM
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#3 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 79
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Re: Which should I grind?
Quote:
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Mike 1960 C10 Short Step 235 w/ 3 on the tree 1999 Mazda Miata <- Track Car 2016 Chevrolet Colorado z71 2016 Chevrolet Traverse - Wifes Car 2014 Honda CBR500R <- Also A Dust Collector 2009 Suzuki GSXR600 <- Stolen
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09-14-2017, 12:00 PM
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#4 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 44
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Re: Which should I grind?
I'd grind the spindle. I wouldn't want to compromise the tubular A arms. Tubes are very strong until you introduce a stress riser such as a kink, dent, deep scratch or thin spot. The cast iron spindle wouldn't be compromised if you removed some material from that location.
Correction - that's a factory stamped A arm. I'd still grind the spindle. The rolled portion of the A arm contributes to its rigidity. You're not wrong. The suspension and steering should not bind and fully articulate through its range of travel.
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James 1971 Blazer 350/SM465/NP205 1966 Chevelle 468/TH400 2009 Corvette Z06 built LS7 |
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09-14-2017, 12:08 PM
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#5 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 79
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Re: Which should I grind?
Quote:
That's what I thought, that A arm was designed to be as minimal as possible and still be strong, I don't want to start taking out material. I will grind the spindle a little and see if that gets me there.
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Mike 1960 C10 Short Step 235 w/ 3 on the tree 1999 Mazda Miata <- Track Car 2016 Chevrolet Colorado z71 2016 Chevrolet Traverse - Wifes Car 2014 Honda CBR500R <- Also A Dust Collector 2009 Suzuki GSXR600 <- Stolen
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09-14-2017, 01:04 PM
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#6 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 22,064
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Re: Which should I grind?
I would take a little off of each.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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09-15-2017, 08:46 PM
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#7 | |
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Post Whore
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,350
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Re: Which should I grind?
Quote:
If they are factory spindles I wouldn't hesitate to remove the material that is causing your problem. If they are aftermarket then I would return them as they may have been mis- machined.
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Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help.  RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
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09-15-2017, 10:28 PM
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#8 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 79
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Re: Which should I grind?
So they have a western logo on them but it looks off, like maybe a spin cast of a western spindle? Here are some photos...
  Here is where the upper ball joint goes...  and Here is is with an overlay of where I think the hole should be... also the red arc shows where the A arm is contacting it. 
__________________
Mike 1960 C10 Short Step 235 w/ 3 on the tree 1999 Mazda Miata <- Track Car 2016 Chevrolet Colorado z71 2016 Chevrolet Traverse - Wifes Car 2014 Honda CBR500R <- Also A Dust Collector 2009 Suzuki GSXR600 <- Stolen
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09-21-2017, 10:40 PM
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#9 |
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GM Addicted
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Visalia, Ca
Posts: 2,294
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Re: Which should I grind?
If mounting hole was further in towards frame it would have an effect on camber. Also I’ve had a few sets of spindles rub like that when suspension isn’t loaded. Never grinded anything and never had issues.
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 ..Mac’s Garage..73 GMC, 54 Caddy, 2010 Silverado, 68 C10 RIP DAd My 73 GMC Truck Build Pic 2010 Silverado 4/6 on 24s IG:MacsGarage |
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09-25-2017, 07:43 AM
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Hayes Va
Posts: 4,569
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Re: Which should I grind?
Are the shocks on it? They will not let it get but so far down.
Jimmy
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60 to 66 Chevy and GMC window decals http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=661131 Good friends, good food and a hotrod what else do you need? 1966 BBW long fleet Daily driver 1965 BBW short fleet Sold and going to a good home 1965 Suburban 2003 3500 Duramax 2005 Ultra Classic |
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09-25-2017, 09:22 AM
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#11 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 79
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Re: Which should I grind?
Quote:
__________________
Mike 1960 C10 Short Step 235 w/ 3 on the tree 1999 Mazda Miata <- Track Car 2016 Chevrolet Colorado z71 2016 Chevrolet Traverse - Wifes Car 2014 Honda CBR500R <- Also A Dust Collector 2009 Suzuki GSXR600 <- Stolen
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