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Old 04-16-2004, 03:26 PM   #26
meathead95
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randy70C-10
Here's a pic, no clearance issues whatsoever.

how low do they hang?
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Old 04-16-2004, 06:38 PM   #27
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i agree, my headers cool down a whole lot quicker than my manifolds.
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Old 04-16-2004, 10:07 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally posted by meathead95
how low do they hang?
About this low.....
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Old 04-16-2004, 10:32 PM   #29
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By not running headers your costing yourself 25 hp and roughly 30ft/lbs of torque and probably a few mpg.
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Old 04-16-2004, 10:39 PM   #30
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Must be true, I haven't burned a single gallon in three years.
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Old 04-16-2004, 11:41 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally posted by Longhorn Man
An engine guy told you to wrap street headers?
If you do that, they will only last a couple years. The heat will destroy the headers.
Yes. He claims unwrapped headers dissipate too much heat. The cooler exhaust loses velocity - slows down - and actually robs your engine of power. I've heard him say this more than once to more people than just me.

He said the best way to go would be to set up a situation on a dyno and keep working DOWN in pipe diameter as the exhaust gas moves away from the engine to keep the velocity of the exhaust charge up. Since 99.9997% of us can't afford a dyno set up in a fully controlled environment we're better off WITHOUT headers.

If you are going to get the stupid things get the SMALLEST diameter pipe and wrap the crap out of it.

Remember - the manufacturers and magazines that sell headers tell you they increase power because they want you to buy their product. The guy I get my information from has rebuilt more engines than most of us have seen. And yes thats a lot of engines.

Plus from a practical stand point you can't get by the fact that headers are simply a pain in the @ss.
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Old 04-17-2004, 10:01 AM   #32
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rpm

At what RPM are you gaining that horsepower? 4000+?
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Old 04-18-2004, 06:00 PM   #33
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I've used Hooker super comps for my Burb for almost four years daily driving. I've never had a leak. My starter does overheat when I'm towing the trailer on really hot days. My brother-in-law has had his on for six years, same brand, never any leaks. I don't have a heat shield on the starter and the headers are quite close. No problems in normal use. Just my experience, Michael.
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Old 04-18-2004, 09:32 PM   #34
TODDS 72
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anybody got a part no. for some shorty headers?
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Old 04-18-2004, 09:58 PM   #35
my68beatertruck
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late to the game, but i'll throw in 2 cents

I prefer stock manifolds for most applications. they do not suffer from the rust through after a few years. maniflods also have a better sealing system to the pipes. also, i have never known manifold bolts to loosen up on a regular basis. ground clearance is rarely an issue on trucks, but for the guys running lowered trucks, this could be a concern.

However, i have noticed the rust through problems are limited to vehicles that do a lot of sitting. i have installed headers on cars that never sat parked for more than 24 hours at a shot, and never had rust problems. but if they sit, they rust. (mind you i live in NJ, plenty of salt air and salty winters). Also, i do agree with the quality of the header dictates the problems you will have. cheap headers are nothing but a PITA. you have to spend the money and invest in good pipes, or they will be a nightmare.

Preformance wise, headers are golden. as for wrap, under hood heat, etc. everything has its ups and downs. under hood heat is also only an issue when you're standing still or going slow. and if under hood heat was such an issue, why aren't more people relocating radiators to keep the engine bay cooler? besides, how hot is it under the hoods with air rushing through, over and under it at 60 mph? just doesn't seem like much of an issue.

I think if you're doing a mild or stock set up, go cast. if you're building for power, don't forget the headers! ;D
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