Dirty Bird 54

[84blaze]

Originally Posted by 74project

Drove to Lake havasu to pick through a chevy junk yard and found a couple 47-54 bench seats have one extra wink wink and some hub caps along with some junk I couldn't walk away from. Any know what year these are? Cut the baby moons I got from mob steel and inserted them into these...

What is the inside diameter of your hub caps you adapted with the baby moons? How did you secure the baby moon ring in the old hub caps?

I have some old poverty caps id like to do the same to.

[74project]

i will check for you Saturday. I know mob steel makes any diameter to match your hub caps. I just used epoxy to hold the ring-hub cap together and i have had no problems..

[Scott2]

Your truck really turned out great and I'm jealous yours is driving!! I got delayed on mine with a basement finish, work, etc. I am trying to get the exhaust done next week, then tear it down for sandblast powder coat of the chassis so I can start final assembly. I still have some cab and bed sheet metal repairs but most of those are done now. Then on to V-Air install, wiring, gauges (thinking Dolphins), etc.

Since we're both using the TCI chassis and have experienced some of the same issues - a couple of questions:

- running the steering is a pain to get around the Hooker cast headers - I don't think I have mine right yet and yours looks cleaner. Did you put your column through the stock hole in the firewall or a bit lower? If so, do you remember how much? Any more pics?

- My brake pedal seems to just clear the motor except when it's all the way depressed - which may be farther than the booster will allow anyway. You had issues getting yours to fit - what did you end up doing?

- My left side header clears the frame - the right side touches it. Did you have the same problem? I called TCI (no help on this) and think I may have to clearance the frame. Any thoughts?

- How did you run your exhaust? I see the one pic and with the same frame (exc. static drop with Ridetech's on mine), LS3, and a bunch of 4 link and sway bar stuff around the rear end, I'm not sure where it's going to go. Any pics?

- Did you use a single or dual muffler setup? I'm thinking I may have to do one muffler on the pass side and then maybe still go over the reared and out the back. What muffler(s) did you go with and would you do the same again?

- Any other words of wisdom? So far I love the chassis despite a few minor issues. I hope to get this truck done this year.

Thanks!

[74project]

Hey Scott.. hope all is well. Im not to impressed with the cast iron hooker headers. They hold a lot of heat and there clearance sucks. I did shave quite a bit down on the flange to get the pass side and it is still really close. No rubbing but it also is a pain with heating up my starter and positive battery cable. If you could return them I would say go that route in the long run.

I ran the exaust under the trans from the driver side. I wanted to keep the pipe away from my fuel line but also not have it being the lowest part of my undercarriage. I put one muffler then ran a 2.5 out and dumped it in front of the rear end. Not a good idea. Its loud and you get feedback in the cab.. some say its a howl noise. I drive it everyday so im a little picky now that im in the touch up phase of the build.. Series 40 flow master.

As you can see I also had to shave down the steel rod end to hug the frame rails. No problems there tho. Im not sure of any other headers that would give you better clearance.

From the floor pan to bottom of steering shaft is about 6.5 inches. I will go out send you some more pics..

If you can look into some sort of roll cage or dash reinforcement..Even something that could bolt into the floor mounts that could save your legs if you were to wad it up around a corner. These things are so fast I have been 130 on the freeway and it handles great.

[74project]

I know I lost some power on the exhaust but we don't have many choices. On the drivers side try to make some sort of heat block. I'm not sure where your running your wires into your cab tho.. I've melted several wires and loom.

I made the mistake of not bench bleeding the master so I have to take it off and start over. That is one thing I don't like is having the brake booster under that cab. For me it's a pain because I ran all electrical under the bench seat. The brake pedal will hit the bolt on the drivers side..

You ride is going to be sweet tits..

[STOCKISH]

Killer work man, I like it.

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by 74project

Hey Scott.. hope all is well. Im not to impressed with the cast iron hooker headers. They hold a lot of heat and there clearance sucks. I did shave quite a bit down on the flange to get the pass side and it is still really close. No rubbing but it also is a pain with heating up my starter and positive battery cable. If you could return them I would say go that route in the long run.

I ran the exaust under the trans from the driver side. I wanted to keep the pipe away from my fuel line but also not have it being the lowest part of my undercarriage. I put one muffler then ran a 2.5 out and dumped it in front of the rear end. Not a good idea. Its loud and you get feedback in the cab.. some say its a howl noise. I drive it everyday so im a little picky now that im in the touch up phase of the build.. Series 40 flow master.

As you can see I also had to shave down the steel rod end to hug the frame rails. No problems there tho. Im not sure of any other headers that would give you better clearance.

From the floor pan to bottom of steering shaft is about 6.5 inches. I will go out send you some more pics..

If you can look into some sort of roll cage or dash reinforcement..Even something that could bolt into the floor mounts that could save your legs if you were to wad it up around a corner. These things are so fast I have been 130 on the freeway and it handles great.

This is great info and all the pics help a lot - thanks! I'm pretty sure if I lower the point the steering column goes thru the firewall by a couple of inches I can re-route my steering better.

Looking at my frame and stuff already in the way I am already thinking both sides' exhaust may have to route over to the pass side - not sure if mine has to be the same as yours or not as it looks like I might be able to squeeze it alongside the booster. I will be at the exhaust shop in a week or so and find out. I don't want to ditch the Hookers at this point but kind of wish I had just make a set of headers. Maybe I'll put that on the long term project list...

Have you thought about a remote reservoir for the master? I don't like either booster or battery access so I will get a reservoir plus remote battery terminals I can hide somewhere easier to get to if I need a jump. I have a battery box that drops but the truck is low enough I would need a floor jack to get to it.

Thanks again!

[Scott2]

Quote: From the floor pan to bottom of steering shaft is about 6.5 inches. I will go out send you some more pics..


I just checked mine and my steering shat is probably 6" higher than yours which explains the crappy angles. However, 6-1/2" lines up really close to the brake pedal and seems like it would be in the way of your foot? I think I'll cut a hole at about 9" and see how that works.

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by Scott2

Quote: From the floor pan to bottom of steering shaft is about 6.5 inches. I will go out send you some more pics..


I just checked mine and my steering shaft is probably 6" higher than yours which explains the crappy angles. However, 6-1/2" lines up really close to the brake pedal and seems like it would be in the way of your foot? I think I'll cut a hole at about 9" and see how that works.

OK - after looking at it a bit I moved the column down to about 9" from the floor crease and to the left about 2" from the original hole. This actually squared up the column to the floor as well. It may have been out of square originally or got that way due to me centering the column between the gauges. This move gave me enough room to make the steering linkage work far better and get more clearance from the brake pedal. Of course I have a bigass hole to fix in the floor, but that's just sheetmetal. Thanks for the help!

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by 74project

You know that you had a good day in the garage when it starts with coffee then swings into cold beer and finishes with 3 fingers on the rocks.. Finally after cuts, bruises, being squashed, broke, and depressed I drove it around the block. It's a little fast so i guess the girl wont be able it drive it.. thats a plus. Still have to get the exhaust done on Monday then off to the dmv.

I keep going back thru your build looking for good ideas and I am again amazed at how much you did in a short time! The truck really looks great!

Question - what fan are you running? I think I saw Entropy mentioned - is that for the fan or controller or wiring or? I think you also said it's staying cool even on ridiculously hot LV days so I assume you're happy with the choice? Did you use a shroud? Any more pics?

Thanks!

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by 74project

Spent some time cleaning the body up and putting a coat of penetrol over everything. Have the gas and air tank brackets mocked up. i think the back wheels will have enough room but i will have to trim the bed walls.

How's your truck now that you've been driving it for a while? Any current pics?

Question on the Penetrol you used - how is that holding up? Have you reapplied? And would you use it again? I'm clearing the heavy rust off mine with CLR and there is mostly bare metal and some black primer under it all so far. I think the PO stripped the paint off or the weather did it, either way there is very little under the rust so I need something to slow the return of the rust.